160 horsepower or 60? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

prevost3000 · #1 05-31-2006, 12:58 AM

I have a problem with my 1989 190E 2.6 Gas/Auto.

I've got no power in the engine. Its the straight 6, I had the engine dropped in there from an 80K salvage car. I really havent driven it that much since the engine R&R. Its got NO POWER. Even if you slam the pedal, it downshifts, and then just picks up like a 3 cylinder hundai in a Cadillac.

I've got new plugs H9DC, and NEW wix fuel filter, Premium 91 Octane Gasoline, 180-190 PSI compression, Sissy Fuel System (CIS-E) New OVP Relay with 2-10 amp fuses, new Air Filter.

I read the O2 sensor a few days ago and it was pulsing normally. .2-.8.

I need some hints that I can look after to get this problem resolved.

Any takers?

t walgamuth · #2 05-31-2006, 05:51 AM

i would check ignition timing and cam timing. is it running smoothly? i would check vacuum too.

tom w

prevost3000 · #3 05-31-2006, 10:56 AM

It purrs' like a baby kitten. Sweet and Smooth. No stumbles, no misses, no errors. I did find a vacuum leak behind the cluster at a servo that directs A/C up at the windshield. I just put screws and tape on the hoses and now it blows at the glass all the time (fine by me) The 'economy' gauge really showed a difference once that leak was solved. I also fixed a small leak nearby the fusebox. I wasnt able to detect anymore. My low idle RPM is right at 600-700 (with A/C on) The economy gauge is buried in the red while accelerating, and is all the way in the black usually coasting on the freeway. All other driving is somewhere in-between.

I experience the low power with the a/c on or off, starting in 1st or 2nd gear.

Another side note: when I start it, it instantly starts and then dies. Then start it a second time and it usually takes off and maintains low idle. Sometimes it is required that you gas the accelerator a bit (when you do, the RPMs fly up to around 1500-1800 and then fall back to 600. Is any of that normal? or to be expected from a car with 195K on the odometer (80K on the engine)?

??

oxymoron · #4 05-31-2006, 11:21 AM

Where's the air intake snorkel?

There's a sensor that plugs into it that affects fuel delivery and mixture I believe.

You're asking about the Green car right? The engine picture shows the snorkel missing. That is not helping you even if it isn't the cause of your present problem. You could start there though.

mctwin2kman · #5 05-31-2006, 12:16 PM

With that last description I would say Water Temp Sensor. That is the normal culprit for that hard starting when cold condition. The sensor tells the fuel injection, CIS-E, the engine temp so it may fire the cold start valve, raise idle, and enrichen mixture for proper warmup. When the engine reaches normal temp it then sets mixture to normal closed loop and allows the EHA to mantain stoic mixture. If it is bad and the CIS-E thinks the engine is warm when cold then it will assume warmer when at proper temp thus leaning mixture too much causing your crappy off the line operation.

Also could be severe leak at the Intake Boot, the rubber between the AFM and the actual throttle body below it. Could be timing way off since the swap of engines as well. Or just a **** fuel filter, I am not a fan of WIX.

prevost3000 · #6 05-31-2006, 07:59 PM

Well, then main issue isn't the cold starting condition. It has started every time I wanted it to (except when the ign. switch locked up, but thats another story and I wrote a DIY about it)

BTW - Brand new Water Temp Sensor ordered from ***************. The green plastic one with 2 pins.

The MAIN issue here is NO POWER from the engine. Its gutless. LIke a 3 cylinder Geo in a Hummer. Anybody else with this problem?

Been there done that, Got a T-Shirt?

Thanks. Keep it Going. We'll get there.

Jackd · #7 05-31-2006, 08:40 PM

Here's a wild guess.
Have you checked your accelarator linkage adjustment.
I know, been there , done that.

GVB · #8 06-01-2006, 12:43 AM

You sound like you have fuel starvation. The reading from the 02, what is it? You said .2? You mean 20 mV? If that's the case, you are way lean. If you want to adjust the mixture the half ass way, hook an in-line amp gauge to the EHA and set it to mA. Terminal 1 I think. Sea level should be around 6-9, and about 60 on a decell coming down from a snap throttle. If the mixture is set right, I would look at the air plate position sensor. You can do a couple of ohm tests. Personally I think ohm testing on 80% is misleading.
If all that is well, you are going to have to put gauges on the fuel system, make sure you do it right, their is different reading for the upper and lower side of the fuel distributor. And don't forget the volume test. You may have pressured, but not enough volume

prevost3000 · #9 06-01-2006, 01:07 AM

Could GVB pm me, I need more explanation as to what type of testing to do next.

Can someone help me with that? What is the EHA?

Could adjusting the 3mm hex adjuster in the air cleaner help the power issue?

What do I use to check fuel pressure/volume? Special Tools required?

GVB · #10 06-01-2006, 01:45 AM

I think you would be money and definatly time ahead to find a shop. I would not recc. adjusting the 3mm mixture screw if you are not going to do it right. Running the engine too lean or too rich will destroy the Cats. Thats some good money right there. If the funds are tight, try looking for a mom and pop's that will work with you. Or, you could call the local MBZ dealer and see if you can talk to a tech, or maybe even service can help you out. Ask if anyone was ever a tech befor they were in service. Hope the advise helps, I would explain it, but I think it would end up costing you a lot of money.
GVB

wbain5280 · #11 06-01-2006, 07:00 AM

Check the duty cycle and EHA current. Check for any vacuum leaks between the CIS unit and throttle body.

prevost3000 · #12 06-01-2006, 11:32 AM

EHA? Where is it located? What does it do?

Is the CIS unit the computer near the OVP Relay?