I understand completely. I'm the last person who would want to incur more expense when something is better off handled by a pro. But trust me when I say this REALLY is a job you can do yourself. Go to Wal-Mart, AutoZone, or whatever you prefer, and pick up a can of refrigerant and a charging hose. The hose is probably $10. Purge the hose of air by opening the tap, then very quickly hook it up to the low side port and leave the can right side up - let it "evaporate" into the system very slowly. Put about 1/3 of the can in and see if your problem doesn't go away. You can tell how much is in there by "feeling" or shaking the can. Do a search here, there is a self-diagnostic mode in the HVAC unit of your car that can tell you all sorts of valuable data. Really, less than $20 and a half hour of your time, and you could have cold air blowing.

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

I see,
One question, where is the low side port located?
I haven't even tried to look so I have no clue.

I wish I knew the definitive answer to this question. Note that the 210 has dual-zone climate-control, so the left side of the evaporator feeds the left side vents (and the left side of the center vent).

The temperature difference between the two center vents is dramatic when the system is about 6 or 8 oz low. 40F right, 65F left.

I do have a suspicion, though. It's possible that the refridgerant is completely evaporating in the right side of the evaporator when the charge is a bit low. Note that the low-side pressure is regulated by the compressor.

It's also possible that when there is no liquid going to the left side of the evaporator, there is nothing to help carry oil out of it. I suspect that it both get no liquid to evaporate, and holds too much oil in the process.

On the engine side of the front firewall, close to the brake master cylinder (but on the other side of the firewall). It has a black cap (about 14mm outside diameter) which screws off.

Whatever you do, don't overcharge the system, and make sure that your auxiliary fan works properly before adding refridgerant.

Thanks for the info, but now your scaring me

Yes, to avoid overcharging like I said just put about 1/3 of a can in there. I think a can is 12 oz. so that should be about 4 oz. That's a very small amount. Even if you were to slightly overcharge by a couple oz. it's not going to kill anything. If after 4 oz. you sense there is progress being made, you can proceed with adding a little more, maybe an ounce at a time. The key is to do so VERY slowly, maybe take an hour to do this whole process. And don't turn the can upside down - liquid refrigerant hitting the valves in the compressor will surely kill it. If things appear to be going too slowly, just put the can over the engine where heat will cause it to evaporate more rapidly from the can into the system.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Also, like I said, do a search on the HVAC self-diagnostic mode. I think you can actually get system pressures in that mode (someone here correct me if I'm wrong). That might be useful in the absence of manifold gauges and might be able to tell you if the charge is low to begin with.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

OK, Looking,

Thanks for all the replies.

Yes, the pushbutton unit will tell you the high-side pressure, but it's a pain to go look inside the car to see what it is while charging. It's great while you're driving, though, if you want to know that everything is working as it should. (Note that this is current sensor readout mode, not diagnostic mode.)

With the key in position 2 (engine off or running), hold REST for >5 seconds. Once "1" shows up in the left side of the display, press the left AUTO button until the left side of the display reads "7." The right then shows the high-side pressure.

Momentarily pressing REST again (or turning the key to position 0) reverts to normal operation.

What is a normal high side pressure reading on say a 90 degree day?

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1996 E300D
1996 E320 Wagon 4MATIC
2003 Jetta TDI- GLS, 5-spd
1997 Passat TDI
2002 F350 Crew cab 4x4 Powerstroke
Jacobsen HR 15' cut ZTR w/ 80 HP Perkins diesel
Hustler 6' front deck with 28HP Kubota diesel

A reciever/drier is an 80.00 part, to replace probably an hour or two at most, and 250 to evac and recharge. It shouldnt be more than 500.00.. Ask them for a break down of labor and parts.

__________________
Dennis
2006 E320 CDI Black/Black Leather. Nav, HTD Seats HK stereo 32000 miles.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t 300,000 miles as of Dec 09, 2009 original owner
1997 E300d Silver 300,000 miles As of Jan 05, 2010
3rd owner SOLD