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  #1  
Old 06-24-2006, 12:34 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Colleyville, TX
Posts: 233
W140 -s420 (98) door check

Hi,
When i open my REAR left passenger side door it makes a cracking noise. I figured it probably needed a new door check. However, when looked in the parts store they only listed door checks for the front left & right doors. So, is there a door check on the REAR doors ??? Should I be looking for a different part ??? Please advise. Thanks

regards
smk_texas
98s420 - 53 K

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  #2  
Old 06-25-2006, 12:05 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 73
The rears have door check just the same. Here was my fix... but,

it is only really temporary. The door check frame will bend out of shape again. And, so will a new one eventually.

Scroll down this thread on benzworld.org to my post titled "Fix for clicking/snapping door checks."

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1203330-knowlege-base.html

Alternatively, just put in a new door check. They're not that expensive.

Brett
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  #3  
Old 06-25-2006, 12:18 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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On the front doors there is a repair kit to fix the door shell where the check mounts on it...not sure if there is a kit for the back doors. If you let a bad check rod go too long it can put an "outie" in the door skin, bend the window track and if it gets bad enough, can make it where you need to replace the door...
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  #4  
Old 06-25-2006, 07:44 PM
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Thanks Guys. I'll go buy a new door check and put it in before it starts hurting the door skin.

Kind Regards
smk_texas
98 s420
93 190e - to be picked up next week
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2006, 01:30 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
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I re-read my post. What I meant to say is that the new one will also bend out of shape and start to click as well. It's a poor design. A new one may last longer before it starts to click, but it will happen. Replacing the check isn't that difficult. The hard part in my case was drivng the pin out that holds the tongue to the door pillar and dealing with the vapor barrier adhesive. It's very sticky, and it's difficult to pull the barrier off without tearing it. I didn't use a heat gun, but I recommend one (or a blow dryer) to soften the adhesive. Then, place something on the adhesive on the barrier when it is removed to keep the barrier from sticking to itself and everything else. It's a HUGE pain to try to straighten out the vapor barrier when it has gotten all stuck to itself. I didn't try it, but wax paper may work. Try to find something (anything) to cover up the adhesive while you do the rest of your work.

Brett
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  #6  
Old 06-26-2006, 01:49 PM
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Location: Colleyville, TX
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Brett,
Thanks for the tips. I'll try and get it done this weekend. I'll post the results.
Kind Regards
smk_texas

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