I have repaired several A/c leaks on my 88 300E in the last couple of years and just located another, but it still has the original evaporator with no signs of a leak.

Last year I replaced a leaking TXV, then a leaking condensor. It leaked out again and I thought that surely I couldn't be lucky a third time, but I was. I must be making the MB Gods happy.

This time it is CLEARLY leaking at the connection manifold on the compressor.

I know that the seal in there is two o-rings and I am assuming that they are just standard a/c O-rings. I have a very good Auto AC O-ring assortment at work, so I will bring it home next weekend and see if I have a couple that will fit.

Does anyone know if these are just standard a/c o-rings or is it a special size?

Thanks.

I got a reply to the post email from someone who was not identified. They must have deleted the post because it is not here now.

I thank the person for the information but I guess they thought that I was too stupid to measure the o-ring. The reason for the question is that I am not going to take it apart until I have the necessary seals in hand. Since I have yet to take it apart I can not very well measure it. My o-ring kit is not here and I wanted to know if I would need to go get some before disassembly.

I indeed have an ACSource o-ring kit and fully expect it to be in there.

Thanks,

if you don't mind me asking - whats your tried/true method for locating AC leaks? UV dye? or something better?

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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC
In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE

LarryBible,
It was deleted by me. The dimensions that I posted were for the GM/AC Delco/Harrison/Delphi/etc series compressors in the R4/A6/H6 models with O ring manifold seals. Since I then realized that it was your 300E with a Nippondenso compressor that was at issue, I retracted the post, since my posted dimensions were of no value.

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

My most common leak test method is UV dye. For really tough to find leaks though, the best method is to recover refrigerant, put in two oz. of R22, pressurize with nitrogen then use an electronic leak detector.

The nitrogen pressurizes the system everywhere so that leaks are more easily detected even on the low side and the R22 is MUCH more detectable by an electronic leak detector. This is a legal method because, I suppose, the EPA feels that it is better to release 2 oz. of R22 into the atmosphere than to have an ongoing leak of 12 or 134a.

Larry,
I have the nitrogen guage assy, but have yet to take time to buy a bottle. I picked up a tip from a guy on IATN. He presurises at about 70 lbs and then at around 200 lbs, because the low pressure picks up leaks at the hose crimps, and the high pressure picks up everything else.

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