|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Simple? Duty Cycle Question
I am re-posting this under a different title to hopefully get a response.
In my first attempt to determine the duty cycle, I am following the article at: http://www.landiss.com/mixture.htm I have a CA 1990 300te. Landiss indicates the following: "For California cars, starting in 1988: Press the push button switch on test connector X92 (passenger side, between the two firewalls) for two to four seconds. The LED will flash once, indicating no fault code is stored in the system. Now press the switch again for two to four seconds. The LED will be on continuously, and the injection control is switched over to an on/off ratio output." I am following the above procedure and each time I depress the button for 2-4 sec, I get 1 flash. I am unable to get the LED to stay on continuously. Is this necessary to get an accurate duty cycle reading? Any suggestions? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Have same issue with my 1991 300e california setup. From what I've read, once you get no errors, duty cycle is set to on/off configuration. Now what is confussing is, what is the proper multimeter probe setup? Many seaches on this forum have the probes pin 2 (black lead) pin 3 (red postitive) and vise versa.
brian |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I think that the system that they have on these models is real half-a$$ed. My '94 E320 still has the same system. Why they didn't have OBD1 on the cars is anyones guess.
__________________
My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
300e/w124 Dute cycle
Mark,
I have exactly the same problem as you. I was lucky however, because I made the adjustments already on mine, and then it went out. I was getting it ready for my EPA/SMOG test. I was lucky it passed OK. I have 215K miles with the same Catalytic converter? However I'm very interested in what the issue is now. I'm hoping its not a CPU problem. If you come up with anything let me know Brian |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Ist thing in the morning I get 69.9%, and all other times I get 49.9%. After a couple of minutes the O2 warms up and meter begins to cycle normally (well normal for a slightly rich condition). Mark |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Try this....
Hit the button for the first mode... ie 2 to 4 secs.... then after you get the first flash wait to see if there are any codes then press and hold it for about 10 secs.... this worked for me and it IS in the instructions when I re-read them! Let me know?
__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Hit the button for the first mode, 2-4 sec, 1 flash meaning no codes stored. Held for 10 sec, 1 flash again. So, no dice. What instructions are you following? Mark |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Mmmm... I got it wrong... your are right... I think I got confused with the fault clearing 10 sec hold... sorry!
Mine is a 88 300TE California car... shows a nice 85% KOEOFF. I have a Craftsman meter and had the same worries about what lead on the meter goes where... so I did this... Probed Pin 3 with the red, then the black lead. The Black one showed me 85%, with only that one connected... so I figured that was good... I adjusted it to give me about 50%, and the car runs really much better than the 80% that it first showed, but does need a touch of gas sometimes to start. Dunno if that helps.
__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec Last edited by Merkey; 07-11-2006 at 11:45 PM. |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Proper setup for the Sears duty cycle meter is red lead to Pin 3, and black lead to Pin 2 or a suitable ground. I don't know that it's possible to get a duty cycle reading with only one of the leads connected. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I can confirm that, right or wrong, that is what I did!
__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Brian, My for question for you still stands; What duty cycle reading are you getting in the Key On/Engine Off (KOEO) position? Mark |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
More Confusing Data
Eventhough I have not been able to get the 85% benchmark reading for a CA car, I decided to go ahead and make some fine tune adjustments to the idle control to lean out the mixture. Maybe 1/6 of a turn in total, idle feels the same, and then WOW! Meter starts counting down from about 30% to 0%. No change in idle though. Restarted car and tried again... same result. At this point it's sounding more and more like the control unit is taking a dump. So I call my local dealer and I read him the part # from the control unit. He tells me not a good #. I try the # from my EPC and he says that is a good # will set me back to the tune of over $2,500. He has no explanation for my part # not being in their system. Can someone with intimate knowledge provide/verify the correct part # for my California 1990 300te? IN MY CAR NOW mb #011 545 01 32 Bosch #02 80 800 322 Dealer Part # 011 545 28 32 |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Just an update on the Control Unit for a CA '90 300te...
Spoke with Bosch tech support and they provided some clarity with regard to part numbers; IN MY CAR NOW mb #011 545 01 32 Bosch #02 80 800 322 UPDATED INFO FROM BOSCH mb #011 545 28 32 Bosch #02 80 800 450 Anybody have either one of these units sitting on the shelf? Are there compatible part #'s that will work? |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|