On this site i've read about brake jobs on ML's. Seems the ML's run through brakes. Now that I'm about ready to do one I can't find any detailed informationon the how to tips. Would be helpful if someone with the knowhow would post this information. And how hard of a job it would be.
Other Questions? factory rotors and pads, who makes them? Texar/ Balo? What is best choices to use.
On average should one expect 2 sets of pads and replace rotors on the second set of pads? I was told my rear rotors need replaced when still on 1st pads. 50,000 miles seems okay on pads but rotors? Little early???.
Front pads changed at 30,000 so guessing rotor are in order on next pads there.
Money saved but thoses in the know really help us MB owners
Thanks
ML 320----2003

there are measurements for rotors that tell you if yer at
limits and to replace the rotors. never turn 'em. its a waste
of time and money. for those that want to, more power to ya.
after market pads are just fine but many times the prices
are very close to the dealers. i prefer textar but thats just me.
use mb grease but i have found a better grease made by
wurth. no problems since using it.
never allow fluid to back up into the system as this can mess
up the valves in the abs system. bleed brakes with a minimum
of 29 psi in a pressure bleeder.

george

I found this link so want to share. Covers the job pretty good and is a funny read.

http://www.petefagerlin.com/ML/brakes.htm

Other things I read that may help. "slugs' roll pins-- don't have to be removed to pull rotors. Penetrating oil sprayed may help to remove rusted on rotors. will come off a lot easier.

This was posted 4 years ago so thanks to Kuan and tip from Gilly

Still want to know if textar pads / balo rotors are same as factory. pros and cons if not buying from MB parts.

also is the spec 23.mm the point to replace the rotors??????

Lastly ----is this job as easy as it seems?????

Yes...it's an easy job. But I'm guessing with my 99. Assuming much hasn't changed on the 2003.

As far as tools, ordinary metric socket wrenches will be all you need to complete rear pads. You need a #40 torx socket to do the fronts.

Calipers need to be moved out of the way of the rotors to remove the pads...thus, rotors can also be replaced at this time.

The pads are a slip fit onto the calipers via metal clips on the center of the pads. Pull out old ones and press fit the new ones.

I went with Textar pads (on all my vehicles)...quiet, and less dust than Pagids (which IMHO are notoriously squealy).

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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car