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#1
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W201 power window regulator help
Hi All:
1986 190E 2.3 (W201) driver's power window stuck in the up position! I have searched the threads and found a lot of great information on this particular problem, including how to remove the interior door panel. It seems that the problem could be one of several potential issues including a frozen motor, stripped regulator gears, broken slides, mechanism binding at full up position (overshot stop?). Here's what I have found so far: (BTW - This car has only 10,500 miles and was never driven in bad weather, always garaged, and for all practical purposes is like new.) 1. The window was working fine when the car was stored away last fall. This spring it would not operate when taken out for its first drive. 2. Interior overhead light dims when window switch is operated up or down 3. Removed interior door panel - I measured approximately +9.5 Volts at the two wire terminals on the door (motor wires) when the window switch is activated UP and -9.5 when the switch is pressed DOWN. There is a faint (single) click sound coming from the motor/regulator area when switch is pressed either up or down. I assume that the voltage is low (ie. not 12V) due to the motor load. 4. The entire lift mechanism (large gear, slides, connecting bars, etc.) is extremely tight when I attempt to move any of the parts. I kind of expected it to be just a tiny bit loose. 5. I tried tapping the motor with a hammer (lightly) while operating the switch in the up and down positions with no luck. At this point I am inclined to think that the mechanism is binding somehow, maybe having gone slightly past its normal stop (up) position. Perhaps it has something to do with the stops mounted on the large gear? (I can see one of them easily) Any suggestions as to where I go from here would be much appreciated. Alex |
#2
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Update:
I went ahead and removed the regulator assembly from the door. I bench tested the motor and assembly using a marine battery with no luck. I removed the motor from the black round gear housing and found that the motor was binding on the inside shaft bearing. I worked it loose by pulling up using pliers, and was able to get the shaft to rotate, although not what I considered freely. I bench tested the motor again and it worked fine in both directions. I reattached the motor to the gear housing and bench tested it again. It rotated to the (window) closed position, but then became stuck again. I guess that the force applied to the motor shaft when the arm meets the bump stop is pushing the shaft into the inside damaged bearing causing the motor to stick. Unfortunately, I don't think I can disassemble the motor to inspect the bottom bearing, or clean and lubricate it. What is the most cost effective way of reliably repairing the assembly? I have read that the motor is not available separately, and I must buy the entire regulator assembly. Does this includes the cast metal support and slide mechanism, or just the motor and gear housing? Where do you recommend purchasing one (retail or dismantler)? |
#3
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I determined that the motor/gear assembly is available separately. I did an online search for the motor (Bosch part 0.130.821.071 - motor with 10 tooth gear for Reitter regulator assy.) and found the following: Retail $330.00, most vendors selling for $154.00 - $172.00, purchased for $66.14 with free shipping UPS Ground. As usual, it pays to shop around. Hopefully this post will be useful to someone in else the future.
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