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  #1  
Old 07-22-2006, 07:05 PM
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door lock problem on w124 400e

I noticed that sometimes when i lock the drivers door with key, then the other doors don't lock. It happens intermittently. Also sometimes when I lock the drivers door from inside, the other doors don't lock and if they do lock, then will not all open after I shut the car off. I hope it's not the vacuum pump. If so, are they repairable? Replacing a diaphragm?
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2006, 01:05 AM
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Could be a problem with the vac pump, could be a dirty wiring connection, perhaps there is a problem with the switch in the door. Do you have the same problem when you lock the doors from the inside using the passenger side lock plunger? How about if you lock and unlock the car from the trunk lock?
There is a switch inside the diaphragm assembly that operates the front doors. If the switch is failing inside the diaphragm assembly in the driver's door then that could be your problem. The diaphragm is likely to fail before the switch, but if you only have the problem when you operate the driver's door then that will help you figure out where the problem is, or isn't.
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84 Audi Coupe GT with Turbo engine, EFI (buh-bye CIS), Jamex seats, Koni's/H&R's, e-code lights. 210k and counting.
1992 Anthracite 400E, 161k, "Grey Ghost".
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2006, 01:15 AM
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Lightbulb door locks

had a similar problem with my 85 300SD, the problem was a broken vac hose under the front carpet
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2006, 02:08 AM
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I have this problem when I use either pass or driver door. Also, the door lock is very hard to pull up or push down on either door. Atleast it is for my wife. Seems very stiff compared to the rear 2 doors. I have not tried to lock or unlock the car from the trunk door. I did not know it was possible. I will check in the am.
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2006, 01:01 PM
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i tried the trunk lock and it was stiff initially but worked then. Is it normal for these locks to be hard to turn? Will lubing the actuator in anyway help?
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  #6  
Old 07-24-2006, 12:39 PM
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Lubing the tumbler assembly might help, but if things are hard to move manually you might be fighting the vacuum or pressure that's in the system, which would make a vacuum leak less likely. Have you had a look at the electrical plug/connector on the pump itself?
Do you hear the vac pump run when the locks aren't working correctly? If the locks don't work right no matter where you operate them from then you can probably rule out a bad switch. If you have a bad electrical connection at the pump that might causing your problems. Or perhaps a bad pump.
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Fourings

84 Audi Coupe GT with Turbo engine, EFI (buh-bye CIS), Jamex seats, Koni's/H&R's, e-code lights. 210k and counting.
1992 Anthracite 400E, 161k, "Grey Ghost".
1986 VW Quantum Syncro, 192k, gone to the crusher in the sky.
1989 300TE 172k. (Was mine, now also Mom's car)
72 280SE 4.5 (Mom's car)
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  #7  
Old 07-24-2006, 06:42 PM
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the pump runs fine so far. No problems. I need to check if the pump runs when I am having this problem. I found a leak near the battery in the back. It's the vacuum line that goes to the trunk lock. I fixed that and the doors lock faster now. I took the drivers door apart and pulled the actuator out. It seems the rubber boot on the actuator was twisted and the plunger cannot seat properly hence cannot press the switch to lock the doors. It must have been like this for quite a while because there is a impresion in the rubber boot. I have ordered a new actuator as I could not find the boot alone. I presume the passanger door has the same problem but I will check that after I fix the drivers door.
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2006, 06:11 PM
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the actuator in the drivers door either needs replaced [i have one for sale-cheaper than the harness] or the vacuum line from the actuator needs replaced.
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