i had one of those cars which i bought cheap because it wasn't running well.it was necessary to richen the mixture to get it to start and then it ran at 1200rpm.after i bought it i replaced the 10 amp fuse in the top of the overvoltage protect relay and all was well.with that fuse blown[these cars tended to blow that fuse when being jumped because of dead batt]you have no power to the main fuel injection which also runs the auto idle valve[this valve requires power to close it down].do you remember the audi unintended acceleration in 1985-86,they used the same vdo valves.all the euros changed to a valve that remained closed until powered up for reasons of liability the following year. anyway check the fuse if you need more help call me. david poole european performance dallas tx.214-9567007.

well ive been messing with the EHA adjustment and it hasnt help at all..

also yea my car is suppose to idle at 950 when warm and start up at around 1200..

instead it starts up really weak and then when it get warm it idles high at 1200.. which is why i am getting bad gas mileage

i think the reason it is idling at 1200 when warm is because the previous owner couldnt get the car to start up so he had to richen the mixture so it would start...

but that in turn makes the idle higher when the car is warm

AND i cant pass smog either GRRRR

hey david when u car ran at 1200 rpm after u richen it.. did it still start up with a low rpm when it was cold? i had to richen my mixture a little more to get it to start... but now i cant fix my high idle.. it is also really weak when it starts

btw i took my OVP out of my 87 260e and put it into my 190e to make sure my OVP was good.. with the other OVP in place.. it started exactly the same and ran the same.. no difference..

also I was wondering...
if i have an X11 off a NAM 190e 2.3 8v..
can i transplant it into my euro 16v?
or is it more complicated than that?

right now i cant check my duty cycle because i have no X11

if i cant transplant the US X11 into my Euro.. is there any other way to set my air/fuel mixture other than buying a gas analyzer or taking it in?

okay so i called david and i decided to just take out my OVP and see wat happens..
Strange thing is.. without my ovp my car starts the same and runs EXACTLY the same

I have a 1985 and this car has the old idle control valve... in 1987 they changed the idle control valve...

does this tell anyone anything? i am guess i either have a bad idle control valve or I have no supply controlling my valve so its always open. I say always open because if it werent working it has to at least be open all the time or else my car wont start.. it obviously wont start if the valve is shut because there would be no air running thru

im thinking the car's valve is always open... so when i first start it.. the engine is getting overloaded with to much AIR so it has a low rpm... and when it is warm it is getting alot of air so it is at a high rpm *shrug*

let me know wat u guys think

Well you can remove the top hose to the idling valve and check if your suspicion is correct. With the hose off you can see what position it's at when you turn the key to position 2.