1988 300TE does not self level with load..
Car rides just fine.
Fluids all full.
Disconnected the arm from the valve on the rear suspension... moved it up and down with the engine running... nothing happens.

I did search but could not find any other diagnostic tests without pressure test equipment.

Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong or how to diagnose it?
How do you test the pump... valve, or accumulators?

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2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec

Merkey,
I just had to go through the self-levelling re-hab on my TE

e-mail me off list at spam99@cox.net

Mark

Thanks Mark,
I mailed you today.

I have noticed that the rear is not sitting level, the pass side is about 3/4" higher that the drivers side.
The car feels fine.
Why would this be?

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2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec

I have exactly these symptoms. Any clues on where to start looking? I released the bleed nipple on the valve body and it appears there is plenty of pressure as i was covered in brown foamy fluid.

Have you been following this thread?
1992 300TE SLS Troubleshooting

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Merkey, Babymog linked my thread in the previous post, but If you have constant pressure at the bleeder and the banjo bolt, it could be a leak at the accumulator on the drivers side and because of the check valves it maintains the pressure on the pass side.

Good luck
Michael

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1990 300E 264,000 miles
1992 300TE 188,000 miles

Hanen't checked the banjo bolt but there is definately pressure at the aluminium valve linked to the sway bar and there is fluid returning to the resevoir. The ride seems OK but it doesn't do any self leveling.

Been following the other post but hasn't divulged any answers for my specific issue. Would love to get it working.

So Ned, is the car is higher on one side? If so it could be the accumulator on the low side.
If fluid returns to the tank, at least you know the pump is working. Cracking the banjo bolt, theoretically could remove possible air from the pump, but if the car is low on one side, probably would not help. That said is so easy to check the bolt, that I would try it anyway.

Did you disconnect the level from the aluminum valve and operated manually?

I would assume it takes a minute or so for the pressure to lift the car, especially if the car is idling. Some folks here suggest to have someone in the car keeping the RPM up while moving the level.

I will post basic functions on the other thread, which explains how the system works when I have some time.

Michael

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1990 300E 264,000 miles
1992 300TE 188,000 miles

short story...went to buy my 1990 300TE 4 years ago. Advertised $6800 and a 4-Matic, 122K miles...the girl liked it...wagon and ****...anyway, I offered the guy $4800 the next day and he accepted.....then I thought over night...I didn't actually see any evidence of this 4 wheel drive thing. As the seller claimed...so...when I went to pick the car up I requested that he start the car and turn the steering to the left. I bent down on the passenger side and looked....not AWD.....this prick tried to
deny it, can you imagine that, and say that it is all wheel drive. Bottom line is that I offered $3000 and we settled on 3200...been a great car and
am very glad that it wasn't, in fact, a 4-Matic...I think that's good for me at least

Pray tell me.... Cliffmac..
What the sam hell has this post got to do with the fixing or diagnosing self leveling?

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2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec

With engine off, measure center of MB star of wheel to bottom of fender lip.
Put 2 people in rear facing seat, measure center of MB star of wheel to bottom of fender lip.
Start engine. Rear should rise within seconds to height with engine off.

1" variance is acceptable from left to right sides of car. Front is typically 1" higher than rear.