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#1
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The regulator was bad, there are several threads detailing the adaptation of a W140 regulator to the newer car, but in a nutshell I modified the harness to fit my car and after a simple remove & replace of the blower with the new regulator (saving the old motor) I once again have an AC system that would keep an eskimo happy! Thanks to Phil and the mercedesshop.com members who took time to detail their repairs.
the "normal" way to fix this would replace the regulator, harness, mounting plate and the perfectly good motor - totaling over $1000.00! My repair cost $300 including Fedex overnight! I am pleased to say the least. The Part# 140 821 84 51 is $270 here - check with Phil to be sure your car uses the same motor). BTW,I found it cheaper elsewhere but I opted to spend the extra $ for my gratitude - karma, you know. If your ac blower fan is not blowing hard enough to feel it in the back seat, you should replace the regulator. It is an amazing air conditioner on these cars! We have 100 degree days here and the car cools off in thirty seconds - I timed it. Hard to believe but it's true. P. S. Here's a thread that may helphttp://65.38.163.85./shopforum/showthread.php3?t=85573
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RIP "Betsy" (Oo=*=oO) '96 E 3 2 0 (W 2 1 0) M 1 0 4 (Totalled) Spaces in sig so as not to screw up the SEARCH; every time someone searches for that MB they don't want my sig! 2004 Audi A8L '98 VW Passat 1.8T 5M '87 Alfa Romeo Milano 2.5L 5M '67 Impala convertible, 327cid |
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#2
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Glad to hear that your AC is back in business! If your AC blower wasn't putting out enough air did you check your cabin filter? I find that my cabin filter is dirty at 15K miles, so I replace it every 15K miles instead of the recommended 30K miles.
Mercedesshop is amazing, I have saved thousands of $ fixing and maintaining my Mercedes over the years. With the knowledge of the members and being able to order part on-line through Phil it has been a blessing. I just smile when I receive a "coupon book" from the local Mercedes dealer - their prices can choke a horse.
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Ray 1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles 2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles 1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles |
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#3
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Anyone have an idea where the cabin filters are on a '97 210?? I looked under the dash - not there, tried getting the glove box out, got a little nervous since I have the touch of a blacksmith, not sure where to look next??? A little help, please. Thanks - y'all are the best!!!
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'97 E320 Black Opal '86 300E Smoke Silver / Burgundy (retired at 198K) '63 Austin Healey 3000 Mk II (BJ7) (reluctantly retired) |
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#4
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Yeah using the part from the W140 will work fine as long as you lengthen the leads. I had the same condition, even on high there was only low-medium fan speed...so I waited and on eBay I found a genuine MB part someone was selling still sealed in the bag...picked it up for $130 I think. It comes with the heat conductive grease and a larger heat sink than the old one had so it will probably last as long as the car will now.
As for the location of the cabin filters in the W210, they are accessed from behind the glove compartment, you do have to remove it. There are 2 of them...plus a charcoal filter but it is expensive and it's not necessary to replace it unless you use it. The cabin filters will be grey to black if they haven't been replaced in a year or so...the new ones are snow white.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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#5
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There is also a charcoal filter under the dash, there is a latch which makes a trap door lower and the charcoal filter is on top of that.
On the regular dust filter (behind the glove box) you just have to make sure ALL the screws are removed, there is 1 or 2 near the glove box light, the hole is quite long to get to the screw heads. After the screws are all out, yeah then the touch of a blacksmith will come in handy. I would normally brace my arm across the glovebox door (with it open) and "pop" it out, it's better doing it that way than trying any kind of prying tool, it pops out nicely. Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
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#6
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Thanks Gilly, I couldn't tell if there were screws in those holes on either side of the Glovebox light. Yikes, glad I didn't tear out the dash. I was putting a lot of muscle on the box to try to get it out. Thanks again.
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'97 E320 Black Opal '86 300E Smoke Silver / Burgundy (retired at 198K) '63 Austin Healey 3000 Mk II (BJ7) (reluctantly retired) |
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#7
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You no doubt noticed the 2 under the oval covers in the "floor" of the glovebox too?
Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
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#8
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Put the fan control on maximum and check the input voltage to the regulator. If it's 6V as it should be, the next step is to wire 12V to the blower (this can be done with the car turned off). Then you'll know for sure.
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#9
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It's almost assured to be the regulator at fault. If you set the fan speed to top speed you should hear considerable blower noise if the fan itself is working right even if little air comes out of the vents. If that's what you have then there may be a problem with the vent doors not opening, but if you crank the blower speed up to top and all you hear is what sounds like a "wisper" of a blower on low or medium then it's almost for sure a bad regulator which is very common on these. The fix is well documented here, you'll either need to retrofit the W140 regulator or replace the entire blower/mount/regulator with the new design from MB.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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#10
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Outstanding thanks guys
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'97 E320 Black Opal '86 300E Smoke Silver / Burgundy (retired at 198K) '63 Austin Healey 3000 Mk II (BJ7) (reluctantly retired) |
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