Well, the cruise control saga has come to a conclusion, at least for now. I gave up on repairing the cruise because my test results pointed to the actuator and it was too pricey and hard to DIY from the looks of things. I turned my attention to the odometer, which I had made attempts to repair before, knowing I could DIY and having sources from this forum for parts. I purchased a speedometer head and during the installation, opted to leave the speed sensor that came with the unit in place instead of changing it for my old one. Good choice. Now the odo works and the cruise does also, flawlessly I might add. There's a bonus! So thanks to all the posters for the help along the way. I'm learning more about this car every week and now I was able to teach for a change! And I have an extra amp that I would be willling to plug in and test and sell. W124, 1990 300E.
Have a grand day, I just did!

Gotta update any interested folks. Sent off my amp to Dave with a check and he must have turned it around to me in about one or two days. Popped the amp in tonight and drove through a number of cruise settings and situations and it worked like a charm. Lemme see now, $35 to Dave for a fix or $400 for a new amp...


THANK YOU DAVE.

I, among many others here, resoldered the amp in my 90 300TE and it came back to life for a couple weeks before going belly up again.

Does the board put out too much heat to prevent using silicon to fill half the housing to eliminate vibration like BMW does on the relays on my 86 K75 motorcycle?

Granted it would mean the board couldn't be removed again, but if it keeps the joints from cracking, who needs to remove it? Then again, I don't want to start a fire either...