To update, my 85' 380SE is still stalling when hot/warm, but it has not gotten worse, but it is getting old.

I phoned one of the local Mercedes repair shops and he said it could be the idle control valve, or the computer, or a vacuum line leak. Upon recommendation, I disconnected the idle control valve with the engine running and the idle did go up to 2000 like he said it should. Does this mean that the idle control valve is OK? Seems like the stalling is worse when going into reverse and it harshly engages into reverse, especially when the engine is hot. I am assuming this harshness is a different problem.... ??

He said to use brake cleaner and spray around to check for vacuum line leaks? This seems dangerous, since this is extremely flammable? Or am I being to paranoid? He also said I could remove the valve and spray WD-40 in it, but I am assuming this is if there was no change on the idle when I removed the connection from the valve? There was the RPM increase.

I do not know what else to do. I had about decided to get a brand new car, but after looking at them, seeing the prices and the low quality that seems to plague many of the cars these days, I think I may be better off keeping my 85' 380 for awhile longer (at least until the timing chain/rails break- then part it out, because with lifter chatter on the passenger side and 270K miles, I do not want to spend alot of money on it, as I have already got my monies worth out of it). Still may get a new one (some good ones out there) and keep this as a second car at the least, so I would really like to get it repaired.

Any further advice about my stalling problem would be appreciated.

The 3.8 motors don't have a idle air by-pass like the later 4.2 & 5.6 engines have. That by-pass was added to help with stalling problems.

IF you replace the 2 rubber hoses on the idle valve with the "new" modified ones they come with the idle air by-pass. that should help with your stalling problem..that is a MB fix for that problem. try that before spending big $$$$

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Check out this thread: 1985 380SE W126 Stalling - Fuel Pump Relay ?

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

MB DOC - do I need to get these hoses from the dealer?

Do I need to get these hoses from the dealer?

Thanks.

Doesn't matter where you get them...


MB part numbers 116-094-12-91, 116-094-13-91, & 116-997-16-52.

The end of the plastic tube needs to be trimmed on one end so that air can flow thru it.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Thanks Doc!!

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2004 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4wd
1991 Lincoln Town Car Executive
1991 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1988 Mercedes 300SEL
1972 Chevrolet Caprice Kingswood Estate 9-passenger wagon
1973 Pontiac Grand Ville
(Prior MB's: 1974 240D, 1985 380SE, 1984 190D, 1993 400SEL)

Thanks for the info, M.B.Doc, but could you expand on the trimming required? Much appreciated.

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Green 1985 380 SE