my 97 E420 has an Exide type 49-60 battery (CCA 850), I'm not sure how old it is cuz I bought the car recently. Past weekend I left the doors open (no lights on though) and the battery completely drained.

Car started w/ a jump start but it was a struggle. Even after a charge I can feel the battery is about to go. So is the autozone Duralast 48-DL good to use?

Assuming that battery goes under the rear seat like my '99, it must be vented if you are using a regular lead acid battery. I opted for an Optima with the reversed terminals and am glad I did. No need to vent it and it won't out gas like the lead acid battery started to do.

Len

how does the optima fit ? isn't it a lot smaller than OEM size? thx

There's a hole for the vent tube just behind the left rear corner of the battery, so that's not a problem.

Search for "battery" here, and you'll find all sorts of conflicting advice. I'm trying to decide if it's worth paying about $95 for a 875 CCA, 185 minute reserve battery from Batteries Plus, or if I should get the Auto-Zone special, $65 for 850 CCA, 155 minute reserve. Both of these require venting.

Matt, I got a huge (Group 49) from Batteries Plus this past year for our '02 W210. It is virtually identical to the OE battery coming out. Can't recall the price - - I think it was around $90.

Batts Plus has the contract to supply all BMW and MBz dealerships in our area. I believe Deka makes the product at this time.

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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter)
Baum spring compressor "for rent"

it seems like Duralast 48DL does NOT have a vent tube, but Duralast 49DL does? so should i get a 49DL ..??

Make sure it's got a vent tube hole if you go lead/acid conventional battery. I've seen the results of a no-vent-tube battery in a 210 and it ain't pretty.
Gilly

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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

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DuraLast sucks. DieHard sucks. Any of the hundreds of varieties of Exides suck.

Interstate or Optima.

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- Brian


1989 500SEL Euro
1966 250SE Cabriolet
1958 BMW Isetta 600

Exactly Gilly. I had to clean up and POR15 the floor under the battery in my car and it was vented, but still leaking. That's why I got the Optima. I'd do it again in a second. It may be a little smaller, but it fits and the hold downs work just fine, but you're a little better off with the reversed terminal red top.

Len
'99 E300TD 96,000 miles

Anecdotal experience with Autozone batteries here. Have purchased three - two for a Ford sedan I owned, one for a 123.133. Two of the three failed within the first year. On the third one, I sold the car within 6 months of installing it, so don't know. A cheap waste of money, IMHO.

I'm a big fan of the Optima. The two I have installed were starting an om603 and om606 diesel. The battery spun both like toy motors. Only downside to the Optima is they've gotten pricey. Shop carefully and it's likely your best value.

- JimY

Guys, curiosity got me and i had to step out of work for a sec to lift the rear seat to take a look.

I could NOT find a vent tube anywhere, and i saw a little plastic thingy stuck to the battery with a duct tape. I'm guessing this is for the vent tube??

also, i saw some RUST underneath the battery - not good!!

lastly, is it normal that i saw a black plastic circular pads on the bottom with a small hole in the middle? i could actually see the pavement through the hole.

anyway, i think i'll just call up MB roadside and have them replace the battery with OEM this time and let them worry about the vent tube.

Lack of a vent tube will lead to rust. Clean and paint that area!

If I pull the vent tube on mine, I can also see pavement, so this sounds right.

Going with OEM will cost you a bit more, but I won't try to discourage you.

I think that vent tube's got to be in place for safety reasons...not just because of rust.

I've got an Autozone battery in my '99 diesel. It's a few years old. No issues.

The car I just sold had an AutoZone battery and it performed well for me for 4+ years and I am guessing will serve the current owner for a while yet. One thing I did before I bought the batter was to heed the advice quoted below from the battery FAQ and make sure to buy a freshly made battery (pulled from the back of the battery rack!):

"Unless a battery has been periodically recharged, never buy a non-sealed wet Standard (Sb/Sb) or Low Maintenance (Sb/Ca) battery that is more than three months old, a sealed wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) battery that is more than six months old, or sealed AGM (Ca/Ca) or Gel Cell (Ca/Ca) VRLA battery that is over 12 months old, because it may have some permanent sulfation and lost some capacity. "Dry charged" batteries are shipped and stored without electrolyte. The electrolyte is added and initially charged by the dealer or the buyer. They usually have "sell by" dates of one to three years. Battery dealers will often place their fresher batteries in the rear of the battery rack or in a storage room. The date of manufacture is often stamped on the case or printed on a sticker. If possible, have a new battery tested to insure it meets or exceeds it's advertised specifications, and recharged if necessary, before it leaves the store."

Below is a link to the battery FAQ and to the really good section that tells you how to decode the various manufacturer's date stamps on the battery:

http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq7.htm#freshness

Doug