Hi,

I bought a 1990 W124 230E two months ago. The ride quality has been quite disappointed. Whenever it rides on (washboard) concrete roads, the front end tends to rattle and shake like a truck. Rattles can be felt on the steering wheel and floor. Turning left or right makes no difference but does not worsen the rough ride. Rough ride is more noticeable when car is driven for some distance from cold(about 2-3 miles). Sometimes slight knocking caused by rough concrete roads can be felt through the steering wheel especially when going up (worse) or down (better) slopes.

So far, I have replaced the four tyres (Bridgestones 205/60/15), front (Bilstein) and rear (Mercedes Benz) shocks, steering center link, tie rods, and steering damper. As a whole, there is slight improvement but long drives (one hour) still mean trembling hands and feet at end of trip. My mechanic has inspected the front and rear ends and is of the view that there is no OBVIOUS sign of a worn component that needs replacement. Wheel alignment is ok.

Please give views on what I should do next. Would the following new parts make any difference?
- Front sway bar mounts
- ball joints
- lower arm bushings
- wheel bearings

I have some photos of the front end (ball joints, shocks, lower arms) I can post but don't know how to do it.

A photo of the 230E's right front:

I noticed recently that when I have my key in the access. position it seems to load up on fuel. I noticed that after having the key in this position for a prolonged period of time and then I start my car, it seems to run really, really rough, then it clears up(smoothes out) after driving for a few minutes. This is the same effect I develope if I let the car idle for awhile. Is anyone else experiencing these symptoms?
These are the reasons W124 owners(especially early models) need their own forum. I'm positive the atleast 100 of us have these symptoms

__________________
Richie
1986 300E

I noticed recently that when I have my key in the access. position it seems to load up on fuel. I noticed that after having the key in this position for a prolonged period of time and then I start my car, it seems to run really, really rough, then it clears up(smoothes out) after driving for a few minutes. This is the same effect I develope if I let the car idle for awhile. Is anyone else experiencing these symptoms?
These are the reasons W124 owners(especially early models) need their own forum. I'm positive the atleast 100 of us have these symptoms.

__________________
Richie
1986 300E

I have almost the same problem with my 380 sec..changed the tires..rotors..center drag link..tie rods..ball joints..and still it happens

my problem is when you take the car above 45 and drop the speed it does it only on the right hand side..almost like the tire is bouncing..

now Im going to go for the entire front end replacement of upper control arms..lower control arm bushings..subframe bushings..etc..

benzat

1982 380 SEC

Ball joints might be giving you the clunking sounds. BTW did you have it aligned after replacing all of those components. If so, the check the steering box for looseness, pitman arm and steering column linkage. The alignment, if done should have picked up any excessive wear in the control arm eccentric bushings. You can check the sway bar rubber, but they usually give you noise rather than directional instability. Tire balance could be an issue as well, even though they are new and presumably balanced. Wheel bearings could be checked for excessive end play. Rarely wear out.

__________________
Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.

Rich,
The fuel pump is supposed to cut off if there is no rpm sensed. When you turn the ignition without turning the engine the pump should come on and then cut off. This is how it is on my W124.