a little is 1/8 to 1/4 turns, i have checked but not replaced the rotor and dist. cap, look brand new and no visible cracks or damage.
i am using bosch platinums that were in car, changed to autolite 104, and champion 401, have had it to only run on the bosch, so they are what im keeping in for now, and the wires are new, old ones were really gone, readings almost minimal,
as for fuel pressure gage, your gonna laugh, we took an oil pressure gage and adapted it to fit the fuel line at the distributor, turned the key on and cranked over........gage blew at 100psi, have put one injector into bottle, while still hooked up to fuel distributor to check fuel spray and pattern,on that note while checking the spray patteren we noticed the injector never stopped spraying while cranking over, thought it wasnt right so we took off the eha and cleaned it, tried again and it sprayed for a little bit then stopped after a period of time
At last effort it will not run or start unless you put throttle at least half way down, with the reving up and down to keep it running.
By the way i cant keep running long enough to get to 80 deg c, they longer i try to keep it running the worse it gets. restart gets harder and harder.
as for basics thats whats driving me , i have a fuel spray into cylinders,
i layed all 6 plugs in wires ontop of valve cover and had someone crank it, it fires on all six at different times in sequence, compression although not actually tested appears ok.
all 6 plugs look identical, just normal wear

thanks again for help

This is CIS-E injection. They all spray continuously (CIS= continuous injection system). The fuel distributor does not "time" the injection, just distributes it to the 6 different cylinders. When the engine dies you need to be watching the fuel pressure to see if it's stopping, and after it stops running see if there is spark. I didn't mean to suggest that the compression was the problem. Only other thing I can think of is a plugged exhaust system, but problem probably is injection related, except not understanding why it's still dying even if the plugs seem to be dry if you lean it out, why doesn't it keep running then? May be easiest to monitor voltage at the fuel pump rather than pressure, if the pressure is going away may be due to a bad fuel pump relay, but would rather see this proven rather than just buy another part. If the voltage is dropping for the pump you can just jump the 2 sockets in the fuel pump relay connector as a test to see if the engine will keep running.
Gilly

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where is the fuel pump relay?
and isnt there 2 fuel pumps, should i monitor both and if you could, where are they located
it makes perfect sense that the car should at least idle, but will not for any length of time.

Yes, pair of pumps, monitor either one.
Pump relay behind the battery, there are 2 similar looking relays. The one that says "KLIMA" on it is for the AC compressor clutch. It's the other one, says "6 ZYL" on it and also lists an RPM, which is the safety shut-off limiter.
Gilly

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Oh, and pumps are located under the car towards the rear, above a black plastic panel, which is held on with 3 or 4 plastic 10mm nuts. Can't remember right or left, want to say left, generally they are in the same basic area as the rear axle assm.. Fuel filter located attached to the same assembly as the pump or pumps.
Gilly

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thanks again gilly

ok went out first thing in the morning and hooked up volt meter to the fuel pump, car started right up and idled at around 600 rpm then dropped to 500 then climbed to 1500 held for a few secs then started to fall till it died, never had less then 12.7 volts to pumps the whole time.
total run time was about 2 min.
Second attempt to start took about 10-15 seconds of cranking then it started and idled at about 800 rpm till it fell and died, total run time about 1 min.
hooked up spark tester and it fell off car was running on 5 cyl till i shut off to retrive tester, had good spark

again first thing this morning ( new morning) went out and started car with injector in bottle, running on 5 cyl , best i can tell you is that the fuel spray appeared to slowly drop until it stopped, and car died, put injector back and tried second attempt to monitor spark, sparked whole time till died, look like last spark was after dead or right at......hope all this helps a little
thanks

and if i remember right last time it ran before idle screw adjustment it was way flooded and blowing unburnt fuel out, then after adjustment smoke is gone and it will start and idle, for a little bit,

thanks