That pic in MENU#24 is the 'dead' one after it was removed. As I recall, a new or remanufactured ETA butterfly (b/f) sits at "88degs" or something close to it. Also you can push on the b/f and it's spring loaded as shown pics.

From your description, I don't believe anything is out-of-order.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Re JimF
88 deg butterfly
understood

Re Doc
"the safety circuit design stops guys from reving the piss out of the car in N/P."
Now I understand

Re Arthur
Code reappears at both times. While only testing and after driving. Still only same code.

"Borrowed" wife's stesascope (sp). Listened to every thing. Interesting. Wish I knew what all those things are supposed to sound like.

Bob

Finally got Actuator, ASR and EC controlers back from 4Mercedes who said they're all Ok. After reinstalling, Pin 14 is generating codes 3, 7 and 11. Still has rough idle and low power

Any thoughts are appreciated.
Bob

Are you sure there is slack in cable for CTP switch???????????

Hi Arthur

What and where is a CTP switch???

Bob

Closed Throttle Position switch.
The cable is on drivers side and there is an turn adjuster on it so that there is always a little slack when the car is at idle . That slack assures that the switch is making a good contact in the closed position. That is what code
11 is indicating. Sometimes the cable is sticking and can be lubed.

Is this the cable from gas pedal to linkage?
What are appropriate lubes to use on cable?
Is the Closed Throttle Position "switch" mounted in the gas pedal?
When turnbuckle is disconnected from actuator to linkage, would this affect these new codes?
Bob

Cable goes from actuator to gas pedal, through firewall.
A light oil will work. The adjuster is at the actuator end . You are looking for a little slack in the cable at idle position of the pedal. Also look for a bunched up rug/mat under the pedal........ No Good !!
The CTP switch [ S29/3 ] is at the pedal end.
ASR limp codes will pop even if you just lift the throttle from under the hood b/c when you do the cable goes slack and the pedal does not come off idle b/c there is not a solid link to it [ just the cable] ..so the computer sees this and brings on codes. same as a bad CTP sw or cable adjustment.
Try a couple of turns on the adjuster after checking for cable bindings and such..you can always adjust back to where you started...

Hi Arthur

In the attached pik from the Repair CD Adjusting accelerator control Item 30-1010d

Gas pedal moves freely with no interference from carpet. I've always used a modified rubber mat with a large cutout for the pedal base.

I loosened nut 30/3 to get slack between it and 30/7 Spring allowing a half inch movement in cable. Cable moves freely. No change. Actuator still makes high eee noise as if an electronic component is preventing it from completing a sequence.

I also checked 34/2 Drag lever and could feel slight movement from its ball joint connecting ends.

Bell crank 32/5 appears to go to both stops as it should.

Opposite end of drag lever 32/2 moves about 2mm before roller 32/8 moves.

On Wednesday, I'll remove driver's knee panel and check pedal action and wiring to CTP switch [s29/3].

Thanks
Bob

Attached Thumbnails

 

Problem Solved...

Thanks to all who took the time to think and contribute their thoughts to a long saga. And special thanks to Arthur Dalton, Jim F and M. B. Doc ... I can't even imagine what we'd do without you and other gracious contributors.

4Mercedes did correctly rebuild my actuator and tested it (as well as ASR & EC control modules) for 3 days on one of their cars to insure proper operation.

After reinstalling these items my 94 e320, it had a very rough idle and inadequate power. Completely frustrated, I took the car to Star Service Center in Allentown PA. In a short time, Neil realized #4 exhaust valve wasn't operating correctly. He applied some magic and my e320 is running better than ever!!! That's what a good maniac get's paid for... knowledge & skill ...

I probably spent more money "doing it myself" than having Neil doing it all. But the challenge of tearing apart a "MERCEDES BENZ" (much to my family's fear and friends saying "you're crazy") experiencing the friendship and understanding of other MercedesShop listers was well worth the "learning curve." Hopefully I can contribute is some way to "pay back" all of you who have helped and others.

Thanks
Bob

PS Neil 's computer generated an awsome array of codes. "Take it for a ride, hopefully they're all old codes and you've since remiedied their causes." Let's hope so...

Thanks to all who posted.

Bob, If I read everything correctly, it sounds like you had an exhaust valve that was sticking. Does this mean that the problem was completely unrelated to the throttle actuator?

Just curious.

Sorry I wasn't more specific.

The actuator had the infamous ng wire insulation and had to be rebuilt.

When I installed the rebuilt actuator the car had a very rough idle and minimal power. Per 4Mercedes recommendation, I sent them the actuator, ASR & EC modules that subsequently tested ok. After reinstalling these three components, I took car to Neil. Because the car sat for months in a heated garage, carbon residue within the intake dried, flaked and jammed #4 exhaust valve causing the rough idle and low power. Neil has the scanner, experience and expertise to correctly determine the cause.

Bob