|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Hood Pad replacement
I have a '92 500 SL. Is it difficult to replace the hood pad?? Your talking to an accountant and i am not really a diy'er. But i would like to try.
I found a new oem pad for about $70. what elese do i need to do the job and is there any reference articles i can read first? Thanks |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
the job isn't that complicated, a little time consuming, and you'll need another pair of hands to help you. There have been many posts on this topic, so for articles, some with pix, use the search function above on keyword, 'hood pad' , and you'll get the detailed help you need. Bob |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
There are a number of threads here, and with procedures too.
To sum it up: Clean the underside of the hood well - no loose debris or grime. Use an entire can of 3M spray adhesive - the Heavy Duty stuff Helpful hints: use an old bedsheet to cover the engine compartment while you are scrubbing the remains of the old hoodpad off. get a "friend" to help you with sticking the new pad on straight -because once it sticks...it STICKS. Again...a search will give you more details and fill you in more. Good Luck!
__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
On my '92 300SE it was real easy - took about 15 minutes total. Helps if you have an assistant.
One suggestion - go to the dealer (yes, the dealer) and purchase ALL of the plastic rivets that hold the pad in. The one's that are holding your hood pad in have been cooking under the hood for almost 15 years and most will break when you try to remove them. Possibly you can get them from Fastlane here on the site, but I couldn't find them listed. Your car is probably different somewhat, but I'll bet the concept is the same. Remove the rivets - there's a central "tack" that pokes into the rivet housing. You'll need a flat-bladed screwdriver to get in under the head and wedge it up. Most likely, the head will crack and you'll be forced to grab it with pliers and remove it forceably. Once the tack is out, the rivet housing will pull free with little effort. I think I needed about 10 or so rivets - you should be able to get them for a few $ each. Getting these parts from the dealer will give you an example of how they're supposed to work. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
It's a breeze
I did my 300d. It's a breeze. Get some "3M Yellow", and better yet, get the other brand name from Auto Zone and save a few dollars. All you do is take off your old pad. Try to get rid of as much old stuff as you can, but you don't have to go bonkers over it. I put a sheet of plastic over my engine to catch whatever old stuff I scraped off. Just use a plastic putty knife or something.
Once you have a lot of that off, get the new pad and see how it will fit first. Then put the 3M Yellow on the underside of the hood where clean metal is. Just squeeze it out all over the place like you're writing with it. Then put the pad up in place. Might want to pull it out once it's in place, to allow air to get into the glue. Put it back again. Put something against it to make sure it stays there for whatever dry time there is for the glue. When it's dry, you're done. Total breeze. jeff 1991 300d, 98k |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Skip 3M spray adhesive
By the way, I read someone else's post about spray adhesive. Do what you want, but I used the stuff out of a tube. Works well, no inhalation problems, no glue all over your fenders when you're done.
jeff |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I used the 3M product on my 85. Was an easy project. The 3M adhesive is available at most office supply stores (business expense ). You do want the heavier duty version. Follow the 3M label instructions, is basically contact cement in an aerosol can.
Roll the pad up and touch it down where you want it and then unroll it. Use a paint roller (3" variety) to help push it down and make contact with the adhesive. Leave sheet covering the motor and quarter panels while you spray.
__________________
Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Helpful hints: use an old bedsheet to cover the engine compartment while you are scrubbing the remains of the old hoodpad off. get a "friend" to help you with sticking the new pad on straight -because once it sticks...it STICKS.
Larry is soooo right about this. Make sure that whatever you end up using to cover your engine, sheet, thin plastic drop cloth, etc., that you pull the end closest to the windshield under the upraised hood and over your air intake vents. You'll find that when you use the plastic scraper to get the old stuff off, it goes everywhere and you don't want it in the intake. Pull it about 1/4 of the way up your windshield. Bob Last edited by SunGuy; 12-20-2006 at 01:25 AM. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Hood Pad replacement
Thank you ALL for your input. I really do appreciate it. I believe i can do this. THANKS!
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
3M adhesive
Use the following:
"3M Super Trim Adhesive (yellow). Part #08090" Don't use 3M General Trim Adhesive (clear). Part #08088 on the hood pad-doesn't hold up well because of the under-the- hood heat.
__________________
5280BENZ '07 GL450,'03 CL500 |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Dont forget ventilation and no open flame (hot water heater) in garage when you do it. It is volatile.
__________________
Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|