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  #1  
Old 12-19-2006, 11:00 PM
bdelmonico's Avatar
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Hood Pad replacement

I have a '92 500 SL. Is it difficult to replace the hood pad?? Your talking to an accountant and i am not really a diy'er. But i would like to try.

I found a new oem pad for about $70. what elese do i need to do the job and is there any reference articles i can read first? Thanks

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Old 12-19-2006, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdelmonico View Post
I have a '92 500 SL. Is it difficult to replace the hood pad?? Your talking to an accountant and i am not really a diy'er. But i would like to try.

I found a new oem pad for about $70. what elese do i need to do the job and is there any reference articles i can read first? Thanks
bdelmonico,
the job isn't that complicated, a little time consuming, and you'll need another pair of hands to help you. There have been many posts on this topic, so for articles, some with pix, use the search function above on keyword, 'hood pad' , and you'll get the detailed help you need.

Bob
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Old 12-19-2006, 11:10 PM
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There are a number of threads here, and with procedures too.
To sum it up: Clean the underside of the hood well - no loose debris or grime.
Use an entire can of 3M spray adhesive - the Heavy Duty stuff

Helpful hints: use an old bedsheet to cover the engine compartment while you are scrubbing the remains of the old hoodpad off. get a "friend" to help you with sticking the new pad on straight -because once it sticks...it STICKS.

Again...a search will give you more details and fill you in more.

Good Luck!
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Old 12-19-2006, 11:11 PM
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On my '92 300SE it was real easy - took about 15 minutes total. Helps if you have an assistant.

One suggestion - go to the dealer (yes, the dealer) and purchase ALL of the plastic rivets that hold the pad in. The one's that are holding your hood pad in have been cooking under the hood for almost 15 years and most will break when you try to remove them. Possibly you can get them from Fastlane here on the site, but I couldn't find them listed.

Your car is probably different somewhat, but I'll bet the concept is the same. Remove the rivets - there's a central "tack" that pokes into the rivet housing. You'll need a flat-bladed screwdriver to get in under the head and wedge it up. Most likely, the head will crack and you'll be forced to grab it with pliers and remove it forceably. Once the tack is out, the rivet housing will pull free with little effort.

I think I needed about 10 or so rivets - you should be able to get them for a few $ each. Getting these parts from the dealer will give you an example of how they're supposed to work.
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Old 12-19-2006, 11:29 PM
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It's a breeze

I did my 300d. It's a breeze. Get some "3M Yellow", and better yet, get the other brand name from Auto Zone and save a few dollars. All you do is take off your old pad. Try to get rid of as much old stuff as you can, but you don't have to go bonkers over it. I put a sheet of plastic over my engine to catch whatever old stuff I scraped off. Just use a plastic putty knife or something.

Once you have a lot of that off, get the new pad and see how it will fit first. Then put the 3M Yellow on the underside of the hood where clean metal is. Just squeeze it out all over the place like you're writing with it. Then put the pad up in place. Might want to pull it out once it's in place, to allow air to get into the glue. Put it back again. Put something against it to make sure it stays there for whatever dry time there is for the glue. When it's dry, you're done.

Total breeze.

jeff
1991 300d, 98k
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  #6  
Old 12-19-2006, 11:30 PM
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Skip 3M spray adhesive

By the way, I read someone else's post about spray adhesive. Do what you want, but I used the stuff out of a tube. Works well, no inhalation problems, no glue all over your fenders when you're done.

jeff
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  #7  
Old 12-19-2006, 11:38 PM
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I used the 3M product on my 85. Was an easy project. The 3M adhesive is available at most office supply stores (business expense ). You do want the heavier duty version. Follow the 3M label instructions, is basically contact cement in an aerosol can.

Roll the pad up and touch it down where you want it and then unroll it. Use a paint roller (3" variety) to help push it down and make contact with the adhesive.

Leave sheet covering the motor and quarter panels while you spray.
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Old 12-20-2006, 01:03 AM
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Helpful hints: use an old bedsheet to cover the engine compartment while you are scrubbing the remains of the old hoodpad off. get a "friend" to help you with sticking the new pad on straight -because once it sticks...it STICKS.

Larry is soooo right about this. Make sure that whatever you end up using to cover your engine, sheet, thin plastic drop cloth, etc., that you pull the end closest to the windshield under the upraised hood and over your air intake vents. You'll find that when you use the plastic scraper to get the old stuff off, it goes everywhere and you don't want it in the intake. Pull it about 1/4 of the way up your windshield.

Bob

Last edited by SunGuy; 12-20-2006 at 01:25 AM.
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  #9  
Old 12-20-2006, 09:37 AM
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Hood Pad replacement

Thank you ALL for your input. I really do appreciate it. I believe i can do this. THANKS!
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  #10  
Old 12-20-2006, 10:08 AM
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3M adhesive

Use the following:

"3M Super Trim Adhesive (yellow). Part #08090"

Don't use 3M General Trim Adhesive (clear). Part #08088 on the hood pad-doesn't hold up well because of the under-the- hood heat.
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  #11  
Old 12-20-2006, 10:12 AM
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Dont forget ventilation and no open flame (hot water heater) in garage when you do it. It is volatile.

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