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  #1  
Old 01-19-2007, 09:59 PM
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88 300te 10-15 cranks when cold

I have been searching and reading for a while to no avail...I have 88 300te which is a pain to start when cold. You must crank 10-15 times with no input from throttle before it will slightly catch very low idle. Once idling you can tap lightly the throttle several times and nurse the rpm's up past 1000, then it will idle great and run great all day...seems to match some of the post I've read but not all, since it runs great after what seems to be a small warm up issue...thnx in advance

Last edited by Krautmister; 01-19-2007 at 10:41 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2007, 12:59 AM
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Sounds like your cold start valve isn't firing.. I'd think searching cold start valve/injector should net you some results. Either way, I would pull the injector next time you go to start cold, lay something down to absorb the gas it should spray and have someone crank the engine. If it doesn't spray it's most likely the sensor..try jumpering the two leads (rear driver side of the engine) and see where that gets you.


Jonathan
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  #3  
Old 01-20-2007, 11:49 AM
david s poole
 
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do you mean that you have to make engine crank 10-15 revolutions or that you crank-----no start-----stop----crank---no start---stop 15 times.if the latter is true you are starting in limp home mode.do a serious check of or replace ovp relay.
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Old 01-20-2007, 11:53 AM
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that was my initial thought but the only when cold bit sort of threw me.. Usually when I see a bad OVP that car is a PITA no matter the temp.

Just my 2

Jonathan
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Jonathan Hodgman
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  #5  
Old 01-20-2007, 07:56 PM
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cold start ideas..

1. checking the temp sensor for proper resistance - I don't have the values in front of me but have seen them on the forum before.
2. cold start valve - mine was working but not long enough ie; it would open upon trying to start (and with 12 v as long as I applied direct voltage) but not long enough when run from the fuel pump/cold start relay (cold start valve resistance was way off 3 ohms instead of the needed 11 or 12) and the 'on' time changed from maybe a 1/4 second to about 1.5 seconds or so at around freezing - now starts well.
3. I also removed and cleaned the idle speed control valve with carb cleaner - forget the real name - was dirty but did not seem to make difference although I can imagine it could.
Good luck. 86 300e 420k km.
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  #6  
Old 01-20-2007, 08:40 PM
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Yes, crank (hold key in start positioin), crank, crank(long cranking session) and so forth...I will check the values of cold start injector tonight. This is wierd cause the engine responds excellent after this fit...Thanks again for the responses, I'm hoping its simple, will see.
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  #7  
Old 01-21-2007, 03:59 AM
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Well I had no voltage on cold start injec. nor did I have it on pin 2 of diag connector. So upon removal of OVP relay I shook it and noise. After reading some post I gather its bad. I tore it down and jumped the contacts and yes sir she purrs like a kitten...So I guess I will be in search of new OVP relay...btw doesn't this car have a check engine light...the cluster doens't have one and I'm thinking its been switched with earlier style...there is a O2 light though...thnx again awesome right to the point diag GET IT THE FIRST TIME AND GET IT RIGHT...YOU GUYS ARE A GREAT RESOURCE... KUDOS
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