I have a 1993 190e 2.6. I was replacing the serpentine belt, but it will not tighten! The 19mm nut is no longer there, only the 13mm one. However, after trying to tighten the 13mm nut, it started to strip the threads on the bolt. I kept trying and eventually the washer was bending and the plate that the nut is on is a little bent.

Would I need a new tensioner, the tensioner shock, and the adjusting thing with the 13mm and 19mm nut? How would I take the tensioner out? Would I need to remove the water pump?

In order to remove the radiator, is it necessary to remove the condenser? How would I remove the radiator? The M103 is tight in the 190!!

Thanks in advance.

There is a ton of threads regarding the belt tensioner.

Look through these. It sounds like the tensioner and its adjusting rod will probably need to be replaced.

I believe you can remove the bolts that hold the body sheet metal spanning across the top of the radiator to facilitate moving the radiator to gain access.

Hope this helps,

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Okay, I removed almost everything in the front. I want to know if it is possible not to remove the condenser? (But if I do, there will be more room!)

If I do remove the condenser, would I need to replace the a/c dryer and add freon back in asap?

Don't need to touch the condensor.
Just remove the top rad support, fan, blade, water pump and p/s pulleys.

Need to remove the hold down bolts in front and behind the power streering pump.

You are going to want to kill somebody during this job.
When you get going on this call me, i will walk you through it.
John.
404-723-1346.

After removing the 3 bolts on the water pump pulley, how does the pulley come out? It seems stuck.

Okay, I knocked the water pump pulley out. That was pretty easy. However, is the power steering pulley the same deal? I don't want to hammer it out and break it.

Yes, it's the same deal, remove the bolts and walk the pulley out.

Thanks, I got the tensioner out. Looking at the tensioner itself, it looks fine. How can I be sure it is working/not working? If it will work, I'm returning my new tensioner.

How long does these tensioner last?

How old is it? You probably should go ahead and replace it while you're there.

They are not known for their extra-long life.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

I do not know when how long is the current one. It might be original. While I am at it, what else should I replace?

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1YG0Q0V442010N9IF9&year=1991&make=MB&model=190-E-005&category=G&part=Acc.+Belt+Tension+Adj.

This, too, in addition to your tensioner

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

What is the difference between a broken tensioner making noises and sticky lifter noise? I installed everything back, and I hear this tapping noise. It is hard to distinguish whether the tensioner was "bad" or the sticky noise I hear when the weather is very cold.

Okay, I located where the sound is coming from. It is coming from this sensor that is on top of the crankshaft near the damper. The sound makes it seem like some metal rubbing with each other. When I pull the wire up, the sound is gone.

What does this sensor do and is it necessary to replace the plate that this sensor bolts on to and also the sensor? And, where does the other end of this sensor goes to?

Do I have to remove the radiator in order to change this sensor? If so... I have to remove the radiator for the third time and 3 quarts of Zerex down the drain! =(