What is spark plug torque for year 2000 430CLK Cabriolet ?
What is the spark plug gap for a year 2000 430CLK Cabriolet

Did forums search, and found some ambiguous info.

Spark plugs(All Engines) - 28 N.m
Spark plugs(Engine 113.987/ 990/ 991) - 25 N.m

I'm sure the intent was well founded, but I don't get it, states "all engines", then seems to ID 3 other engines.

Need help clarifying this.
1. So, what is it, 28 or 25 ?
2. What is the numerical ID for my engine, ie. 113.987, or what ?
3. What is the torque setting for my plugs ?

Would really appreciate some help, since I am waiting for a response so that I don't have to walk to work tomorrow.

Thanks.

pancho,

your engine number is : 113.943

I'd go with 28Nm (20.65 ft.lbs.) i think most people go by feel however...

i'd also recommend NGK spark plugs and do not use that anti-seize stuff. anti-seize compound and aluminum don't get along...

I just finished the job w/ stock Bosch plugs, torqued at 28Nm,
and used permatex anti sieze on the upper threads of the plugs.

About 6 of the plugs really growled on the way out,
and I had to use a breaker bar on all of them.

What's the prob. with anti-sieze and aluminum ?

anti-seize and aluminum will over time "glue" themselves together making plug removal difficult. i used to use anti seize until an old timer MB mechanic warned me of the dangers. as a practicing mechanic, i've seen it happen...

When antiseize is applied, your torque reading is compromised and you'll overtighten, increasing liklihood of stripping threads.

In addition, the antiseize will harden and fall into the cylinder next time you remove sparkplugs.

Generally speaking, the main use of antiseize is when joining dissimilar metals--like the steel of a plug and the aluminum of a cylinder head--and there is NOT a problem obviously with aluminum. The problem is the other things mentioned.

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

The same as the torque for any 14mm plug in any aluminum cylinder head.

If you use Bosch or Beru plugs, it's the gap they are set at at the factory--which is printed on the box.

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

the problem is using the wrong type of anti-seize when joining two dissimilar metals. most shade tree mechanics grab the ubiquitous low grade generic gray stuff...

i was merely suggesting that not using anti-seize is the safest way to go. to further complicate things, some OE plugs that are meant for aluminum heads are already precoated with an antiseize agent rendering the additional application superfluous.

i was merely stating my own personal opinion (based on 10 years of being an auto mechanic,) regarding the use of anti-seize compound. even amongst the auto mechanic world, the topic of anti-seize and spark plugs is a hotly contested debate.

Have never heard of anti sieze binding. Permatex is gray stuff, not cheap, been around a while. Only neg. I've ever heard of anti sieze many years ago was that it was corosive to aluminum, but that was just a myth. Also, that it would insulate, or interfere with grounding. From my experience, seems that it has been used on aluminum for a long, long time. Never heard of it binding, or cooking onto a plug, especially this stuff (temp resistant to 1,600 F). Seems that it is designed to do exactly the opposite. I use it lightly on the upper threads so that it doesn't drop some into the cylinder, and so the seat and at least half the threads have direct contact with the heads.

Link:
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/b_lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm

keep in mind that any manufacturer of this stuff will tell you you need it for this and that because they want to sell you their product...

pancho, i'm not trying to intentionally start a big debate about this. all i'm saying is that after changing plugs for 10 years in everything from Rolls Royces to Chevy Suburbans and everything thing in between, i personally don't use the stuff for spark plugs.

What someone "personally does" is of little consequence compared to what manufacturers recommend.

Bosch, for one, recommends against antiseize.

They did, after all, invent the spark plug.

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

I have been a mechanic for over 50 years and I use anti seize with steel plugs going into alunimum heads with never a problem. When I worked as a service manager in a motorcycle shop that was the rule. I have seen steel plugs pull the threads out many times because they didn't have anti seize on them. Jerry ==age 68.

...like i said in a previous post, this is a hotly contested debate that could go on and on and on...................................

what the manufacturer recommends isn't always gospel.

google "audi sludge," "mercedes class action (sludge, FSS)," "toyota sludge,"

"Dexcool," i could go on and on but i won't.

done with this thread...

Do you guys actualy torque the plugs? I can safely say I have changed more spark plugs then I can remember and have never broken out the torque wrench. Just use a 3/8in drive and tighten until you feel the crush washer stop crushing.

I guess if you can't do it by feel using a torque wrench is probably a good idea.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200