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  #1  
Old 04-09-2007, 09:37 PM
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w124 rear brake disc removal - 12 point hub bolt size?

What size socket do I need to get that 12-pointed hub bolt off? It looks like about a 30 or 32mm - is that right?

Once I get that off, the disc retaining screw and the caliper it should come off - correct? (Maybe with the assistance of a rubber mallet :-D)

TIA!!

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Old 04-09-2007, 09:51 PM
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You don't need to remove that nut to get the rotor off. Remove the caliper, 5mm set screw, make sure the parking brake is released, and hit the rotor with a hammer.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:11 PM
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I see - I guess I just needed a little more effort on the rubber mallet.

The manual says "remove from rear axle shaft flange. Loosen tightly seated brake discs from rear axle shaft flange by tapping lightly with a plastic hammer"

I guess lightly is a relative term here.

Anyway - I'd found in the manual that you need a special part:

126 589 02 09 00

On http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tn.jsp?prefix=100 it says this is a 12 pointed 30mm socket.

Thanks for the information about the disc removal.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:47 PM
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If you're replacing the rotor, why not hit it hard with a metal hammer?
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2007, 06:15 AM
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Another effective method is Liquid Wrench (or similar penetrating oil) and a 3-jawed puller. Tighten up on the puller every few minutes and tap with a mallet. Just don't stand in the line of fire - the rotor will pop off pretty good.
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Old 04-10-2007, 06:39 AM
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Screw in one lug bolt so when you hit it with a hammer and it comes off it doesn't go flying or fall on your foot.
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2007, 06:50 AM
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why did you have to remove a 32mm bolt?

here is my front replacement: http://www.pmcar.com/300e_2.htm

The rear is the same. I actually broke my old rear rotors because the internal parking brake had worn a lip on the material. They came off, though.
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:57 PM
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I don't need to take the bolt off to remove the rotor (as noted above) I just need more effort on the hammer.

Good idea about the lug nut - I'll try that when I take it off tonight.

FWIW - I am investigating a grinding/scraping noise from the rear and I wanted to know the size in the event that I needed to get the rear wheel bearings out. However - this also means that I'd like to not have to replace my rear rotors and am being cautious with the amount of force that I'm applying.

My guess is that its related to the parking brake mechanism - I can spin the rotor and feel/hear the noise in one particular part of the rotation.
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:14 PM
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You may need to release the parking brake shoes a little bit more, even when they are "off" they can still hinder rotor removal. Once they are all the way loosened, hit the rotors from the backside with a 2-5 lb sledge hammer.
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Old 04-11-2007, 01:05 AM
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"I just need more effort on the hammer."

Yes, the amount of effort is "relative." Almost all of the flat surface of the rotor contacts the hub. That's a lot of area to collect rust that is holding the rotor on.

Mine required large amounts of PB Blaster in each lug hole, an overnight soak and serious 8 lb sledge slamming.

Before reassembling, makes sure both inside of rotor and hub are rust free and relatively smooth.

Bob
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  #11  
Old 04-11-2007, 09:56 AM
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In other words, get a bigger hammer!
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Old 04-11-2007, 10:06 AM
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Sometimes as mentioned above the E-brake can get in the way...find the star wheel through the lug hole and loosen it to pull the parking brake pads back far enough to ensure they are not interfering.

Then use a BFH

Jonathan

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