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  #46  
Old 05-18-2007, 08:51 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
yup i just went fr a drive with the 2 lines connected. runs pretty smooth.
i dont feel or hear a rough idle. in drive its at about 500-550. it wil occasionally go down a little then jump up and settle back.
buti dont think doing that solved my problem 100% b/c i still feel a slight backfire or roughness when i give it a little gas to bring the rpm up.
seems like the problem is in the 500 t 1000 rpm range, it willl not settle in that area.
but yes there is a huge difference between plugged into the valve and the lines plugged together.

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  #47  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
Posts: 8,804
Ok..that may be b/c it is rich and unmetered air is smoothing it out..wish we had some codes from those modules.
Take the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if any gas is dripping out of that line.
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  #48  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:06 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
nope nothing is coming out of that line.
but i did notice once i unplug it and block the vacuum line going to it.
gets alittle less rough. might be normal.
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  #49  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:11 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lebstyle View Post
nope nothing is coming out of that line.
but i did notice once i unplug it and block the vacuum line going to it.
gets alittle less rough. might be normal.
Gonna need some codes...

I have built many of those tools forr guys here and never had one that had a problem..plus all the ones guys here made using the same parts ..you sure you tried that other led I mentioned??? It seems impossible hat yo can not get one to work..it is a led and a sw...that's about it.
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  #50  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:33 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
i went and bought another led today. same specs as the one you gave me last. this will be my number 4, its the same one as i used last time, so i anticipate itll work for a fewseconds and blow. 2760270 but we dont have radio shacks here anymore, they changed them to "the source". i also bought some resistors with it just incase. the guys at the source are idiots. i noticed the old ones i had were 12v but they had 5 v input and 5 v output. also the push button came in a package of 2, one black one red.
so i am going to attempt it again tomorrow. i know the number u gave me was 276-270 but thats all they had. if anyone sells them in the states i would buy one, i am in canada as i mentioned earlier.
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  #51  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:39 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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I see.
Well, you may just want to try it w/resistor in the circuit first then...if it says 5v, then it is certainly not the 12v one that we need. The resistor goes between the led and the Red + bananna plug.
If it is visable with the resistor in the circuit, let it be so you at least have the tool working.
The tool design has to have a 12v led , otherwise a resistor is required.
The tool test procedure I gave you will stay the same.

Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 05-18-2007 at 09:45 PM.
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  #52  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:46 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
it says 12 v on the package on the front, but the fine print on the back is :

5mm t-1 3/4 round. specially designed with built- in resistor so that 12vdc may be applied directly without an external resistor
Absolute maximum values:
forward supply 5v, reverse voltage 5 v, forward current 20mA.

opto-electrical Characteristics:
forward voltage 12v
forward current 10mA
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  #53  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:51 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
Posts: 8,804
looks like a 12v led to me , but if they keep blowing , they are defective or mis-labled.???
You running a 24 Volt Battery ???? ..just kidding

..like I said , try with the extra resistor first, just in case.. if the led is dim, you know you have too much R and it should then work w/o extra R.

there are several 12v leds out there, but this is the one I like best for the tool..but if you can't get that one , any 12v SHOULD work..

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?summary=summary&techSpecs=techSpecs&currentTab=techSpecs&cp=&custRatings=custRatings&features=features&accessories=accessories&productId=2062568&support=support&tab=features

Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 05-18-2007 at 09:59 PM.
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  #54  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:58 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
so the resistor goes on the + side only right?
im gonna try it tomorrow morning.
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  #55  
Old 05-18-2007, 10:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lebstyle View Post
so the resistor goes on the + side only right?
im gonna try it tomorrow morning.
Correct
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  #56  
Old 05-18-2007, 10:04 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
thnkx, night.
i will report my daily hair pulling out routine.
im laid off now so i have lotsa time to fiddle around, but not a lot of money to fiddle with.
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  #57  
Old 05-19-2007, 05:37 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
hi again, good news, i got it to work.
it read alot of codes b/c they were stored when i was playingaround with things and unpluggin them.
so i want to reset the system, clear all the codes, then plug back that vaccum line to the purge valve, and take it for a drive and let it act allup and get all the correct codes.
now i tried ot reset them by unplugging the battery foran hour, no success. and i also tried resetting them by using my new gizmo by pressing it in for 8 seconds, didnt work.
any other alternative?
thanks
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  #58  
Old 05-19-2007, 06:12 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,726
Quote:
Originally Posted by lebstyle View Post
and i also tried resetting them by using my new gizmo by pressing it in for 8 seconds, didnt work.
any other alternative?
The alternative is to try it again - it's got to work. If the codes are reading they should also delete. Maybe hold it a little longer.

PS - code erasure has to take place between 3 and 20 seconds of the reading of the code, and the ignition must be turned off after each code erasure.

Last edited by deanyel; 05-19-2007 at 09:45 PM.
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  #59  
Old 05-19-2007, 10:40 PM
skybound's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Scotts Valley CA
Posts: 62
I know you might already know this but do you know about the wiring harness situation in the year of car you own? I too had induction afterfiring, I could hear it, and then when I changed the plugs things got worse, I disturbed the disentigrating wiring harness and the car would harldy run at all. When I cut open the covering on the wires that connect to the coil packs I discovered what I didn't want to see, the dreaded disentigrating wiring harness I thought I was ok as I didn't see any signs of bad wiring before then. Just do a search on the wiring harness and you will be shocked. It felt like I was being raped, but I spent the 800+ on a new harness and installed it, now it runs like a dream. FYI the throttle valve actuator also has bad wires, so far I haven't even touched it. Now all I have to deal with is my head gasket leaking oil, luckily not too bad yet. Last but not least if that is your problem, I would keep a copy of the invoice for parts, maybe someday there will be a recall and all of us who have been robbed for something that should have been taken care of by MB will get some kind of reimbursement.
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  #60  
Old 05-20-2007, 12:20 PM
lebstyle
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 135
hi again.
i reset allthe codes on it.
im still not believing it but after i did that, its running like new, ca i pinch myself yet?
i went for a 20 minute driv and checked it again, i only gt one code

pin 14
code 5 Stop lamp switch (S9/1)

oh well i guess all the stuff i hanged was gonna go eventually, gave it a good tune up.
if anything else crazy happens i will post
thank you all specially arthur

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