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#1
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My 560SEC is due for an oil change and I was thinking about synthetic. If so, what kind and weight for my baby that has 161,000 miles, timing chain was changed about 1,000 miles ago and I drive her once a week. Also, I live in Miami, FL. If I can switch to synthetic, how often do I need to change the oil because I don't put the miles on her? Obviously you can tell I am not a mechanic and haven't changed oil since I was a teenager on the farm. I was going to take in to to a new mechanic that is closer to my house but thought I'd bring my own oil and filter and have them do the work and look her over. Thanks, LWS1
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#2
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Are there any external leaks? How much oil are you using per/1000 miles?
@ 161K you're valve guides are going to be getting towards the end of their useful life. Jonathan
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Blue Ridge Mercedes Jonathan Hodgman http://www.blueridgemb.com/ Enthusiast Service, Restoration & Tuning. Follow Us on Facebook! Located in the Atlanta area Specializing in all pre and post merger AMG's including Hammers and DOHC M117 engines. Mercedes Repair Atlanta |
#3
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I would stick with dyno oil. Use the grade-viscosity suggested by Benz. Change the oil and filter often. You will have no problems.
BTW, nice car.
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Current Benzes 1989 300TE "Alice" 1990 300CE "Sam Spade" 1991 300CE "Beowulf" RIP (06.1991 - 10.10.2007) 1998 E320 "Orson" 2002 C320 Wagon "Molly Fox" Res non semper sunt quae esse videntur My Gallery Not in this weather! |
#4
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I am not mechanical at all. How much does it cost to replace those and how do you tell when they need to be replaced?
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#5
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I had this exact same conversation with my independent German-American mechanic
about one year ago, regarding my 1991 560SEC that had 118,000 miles on it and had been maintained with dyno oil, and the timing chain changed at about 100,000 miles.. His response was to stick with with the dino oil, on a car that had been using it that long, for the reason that the detergents in the synthetic oils were rather aggressive, and changing over to dyno oil would loosen things up to the point that new leaks would probably appear after such a change. That logic convinced me to leave well enough alone and stick with dino oil..
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![]() 1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold) 2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp 1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k 2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive ![]() |
#6
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Sort of off-topic, but if you've got a garage, I'd highly recommend learning to change your own oil. I kind of enjoy the "bonding time" with my cars.
![]() - Scott |
#7
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That's not a bad idea. Is it difficult to change on a 560? Do you need any special wrenches?
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#8
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Northern Tools has it for $40 + UPS Ground. All metal, works like a charm and allows you to also remove transmission, brake and PS fluid as well.
When yo are done thake the oiul back to the auto parets place where you bought the oil, they by law must accept it for recycling. They pour it into a large container adn return the can to you. Can is 2 1/2 gal steel with 2 steel caps. |
#9
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Quote:
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