I everyone I'm new to this fourm, and so far I've found a lot of helpful info. I bought my wife a 06 C230 sport ( not my first choice) But I have to say the car has grown on me. I've always been a GM kind of guy and I've always done the service on all my own vechicles. It is now time for the oil change, and I'm having a hard time finding the oil filter. If anyone has any info on the location, or special tools needed I would be very greatfull

thanks Matt

1) use the SEARCH function tab and you'll find many post on tools, location of parts, measuring and which oil.

2) www.mbklasse.com is a site dedicated to w203 C-class models and has additional information.

3) The owners manual has pictures and diagrams to show location.

4) your MB dealer parts department as well as the Buy Parts tab on the top of this page can help with parts and pictures of parts.

5) if you do a search for engine diagrams through this sites search function you'll find a russian site that has MB diagrams of all MB models.


hope this helps, also www.mbca.org will have similar information

Pull off the front portion of the engine top cover ( plastic ), and you will see the oilfilter cap.
This is a cartridge-type filter, not the canister-type that you're used to seeing on a GM.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

If you want to change oil yourself, you have to have a suction pump and remove "most" of the oil this way from the top of the engine. If the dealer does this, they will remove "most" of the old oil but charge you for a full "load". This is not the best way to change oil but this is "High tech" engineering. Go figure.

Baloney.

It's proven over and over that extraction via dipstick removes MORE oil than drainging via pan plug.

Let's deal with data rather than old wives' tales.

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Exactly.
I have done it both ways & can assure you, it will remove the exact same amount.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

I must call BS. Suck all the oil out with a topsider, then take out the drain plug...nothing comes out.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I fully agree that sucking the old oil out will remove all the oil except for the small amount in the sump that has all the small metal, carbon, sand etc. left at the place where the oil drain plug resides. I have heard that it is exactly these contaminates that can hurt an engine over time and why drain plugs were invented.

I still call BS, pull the drain plug nothing comes out! Besides thats how we change the oil on a lot of marine engines. You just can't get to the drain plug 99% of the time. I have never seen an oil related failure in a boat because of this.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

metals settle downward, oil moves upward through suction device one square inch in diameter.....oil pan is a foot or so in diameter.....

You cant tell me a topsider scours the full surface area of the bottom of the oil pan. Hot oil flowing all across the bottom of the pan sweeps out the particles just like a river-current carries sediment. With a topsider, there's gonna be a thin layer of oil left, and since the particles settle, there will surely be more there than with a standard oil change approach whereby oil flows DOWNWARD. It's just COMMON SENSE

I'll stick with my neanderthal approach.

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former: 83 300D, 97 C230, 93 400E

current: 08 C300 Luxury , 92 500SL

That pretty much says it all.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

Metal particals of any size will get picked up by the oil filter, the rest will be suspended in the oil.

I'm all for using the drain plug, but sometimes its more trouble then its worth.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

It's great to get so much feedback on this thread, I've always perfered to drain the oil through the drain plug. I've even gone as far as using the engine's own oil pump to pump the oil out. I had a blown big block chevy in a jet boat that I used this method with. The drain plug on the oil pan was so close to the floor it could not be removed with out lifting the engine. So what I would do is remove the oil cooler line on the outlet side, start the engine and let the oil pump do all the work. I know using this method would sound a little scary to some people, and yes It dosen't get all the oil out of the pan, but it worked pretty good for me. After every summer I would pull the motor and inspect the bearings, and after changing the oil this way about 2-3 times a summer, running 16lbs of boost, 850hp, the bearings looked perfect. I ran the same main and rod bearings for 5 years.But I guess if there's a will there's a way.

If there are particulates circulating around, they will get trapped by the filter. If there is sediment/sludge at the bottom that doesn't move, who cares as long as the suction screen is unimpeded?

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Prost!

Just a couple of friendly thoughts here.
Is there any risk of the drain plug seizing if it isn't removed now and then?
I always drain from the bottom and use the opportunity to inspect down under for any issues.
However, I have a nice garage to work in. If I had to work in the driveway I would definitely be a topsider guy (well, most of the time anyway).

Dan

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2012 E350 Bluetech