Well, it looks like I need new front rotors. I think they are warped also. Are there anything I should replaced while I am "in there", such as bearings, etc.?Does any have a link to properly replace the front rotors?

Thanks,

John

Check the pad's and replace the wear sensor in the pads i would check the bearings aslongas they are greased the last a long time and if you haven't did it is replace the brake fluid flush the lines to each wheels
most people don't do this until they have a caliper problem

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Keeping 'em Running
1990 300SEL
1994 E320
1989 E300

What is the correct way to remove the hub that attaches to the rotors? It looks like I have use a bench vise to hold on to the disc. Can the bench vise damage the new disc when reattaching the hub? Need some advise on someone who has done this before.

John

There are lots of posts from people with different methods of removing brake rotors. In theory they should just fall off with the wheel, caliper and hex retaining screw removed.

This is what I do if it is stuck: Leave the hub ON the car add some penetrating oil around the hub where the disc contacts it. Brush this junction with a wire brush to remove rust.

Put 3 of the lug bolts back in the hub. 2 together and one across from it.
Take a 2x4 about a foot and a half long and place it flat across the tops of the 3 wheel bolts. Use 2 c-clamps to clamp the 2x4 to the rotors like a sandwich. You are bracing the 2x4 on the center of the hub (using the bolts as a contact point) and pulling the rotor towards the 2x4. If the clamps get pretty tight and they haven't popped off just whack the rotor once with a hammer. It will "POP" off, the clamps will fall to the ground and the bolts will keep the rotor from falling completely off. This has been very effective for me!

Clean the hub contact area with a wire brush and use a little anti-seize compound to make it easier next time.

Good Luck!

__________________
02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)

speace's description of how to remove the rotor will not work on your car.

You need to remove the rotor and hub by removing the bearing. There are several allen style bolts holding the rotor to the hub. It takes a lot of torque to get them off. A large impact wrench is recommended to remove them. I would not hold the rotor with a vise since it might score the rotor surface.

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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

Screw in two lug bo;ts and but the rotor and hub combo in a vice, woodworkig type ot metalworking type, clamp the vice on the bolts and unscrew the socket head bolts that hold the rotor on the hub. Pretty easy actually. Inspect the seal while you in there and replace if necessary.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

dpetryk,

Thanks for setting him straight!

I've been doing my own Mercedes brakes since 1974. It's been so long since I did one of that type that I forgot that the earlier models had those bolts on the back side of the hub.

I seem to recall that I used to remove the hub/rotor assembly and bolt it back into a wheel that was laying on the driveway. It wasn't too hard to secure the whole wheel while I removed the big allen screws.

__________________
02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)

the big allen screws require a half inch drive allen socket and a breaker bar to remove. be sure the allen is seated all the way in and whale away on it. it takes so much torque you will swear something is going to break but just be sure it is all aligned and whale away. i put the rotor in the vice. who cares if it gets scratched, you are replacing it.

it is not a difficult job skill wise but it is a tough one which is intimidating at first but after you have done it once successfully it will never bother again.

be sure to get full penetratoin on the allen socket and keep the wrenches and such square to the allen screw.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

x2 on making sure the allen is firmly and squarely set into the bolt.

as an aside, Stahlwille allen sockets are the best bar none. after rounding out too many allens with Snap-On, Matco, Mac, etc., i eventually ditched them all and replaced them with Stahlwille. the Stahlwille sockets are machined just a little more precisely and that extra bit of snugness makes a big difference. i am in no way affiliated with Stahlwille but they make some fine tools.

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W108
W116
FJ60

mine are craftsman and have been adequate so far.

nice to hear about the stahlwille though.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Torque value?

I will try the bolt the hub back onto the wheel method. I don't have a vise. I have a 1/2 in breaker bar and a cheater pipe.

Thanks,

John

Torque is 115 NM, or about 80-85 FT/lb.
When you pull the hub, the bearings and grease can be exposed to
dirt and contamination. Cleaning and repacking is the ultimate solution, but the three times I have done mine, I just was very careful pulling the rotor/hub off, then taped off each end of the hub to keep the grease clean.
Use your own judgement here, if you think any dirt got in, clean and repack.
Otherwise, check the race surfaces for any wear, re-smear the grease and move on.
Bearing adjustment is supposed to be done with a dial indicator, but I tried that method, and felt a lot more confortable with the 100-year-old method. I put the wheel on, snug the nut up good until all play is gone. Then back off a bit, grab the tire at top/bottom and rock it, and back the nut off just enough to discern a tad of play.

Cheers,
DG

I thought one just put the rotor/hub assembly back on the spindle, put the outer race in snug, and tighten in the outer nut. I try to make sure there is no play in the rotors. Is this not acceptable?

John

Pexcellence,

It depends on which type of hub/rotor is being discussed. On early disc brakes like my 65 Mustang (I don't know if Mercedes ever did this.) the hub and rotor are one piece, and yes, they would go on just as you described.

On newer cars the rotor is sandwiched between the hub and the wheel. Which is what I was originally thinking on my first post.

This thread is discussing an in-between style where the rotor is attached to the hub using a ring of allen bolts that are accessed from the back of the rotor.

__________________
02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)

I was able to remove the hub from the rotor. Bought a cheap Harbor Freight impact wrench for $39 and a $4 10 mm hex socket. It was pretty easy after that.

Mine is the hub is sandwiched between the rotor and the wheel. I had to remove the ring of allen nuts from the rear of the rotor.

John