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Old 07-10-2007, 11:03 PM
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Any ideas on multiple issues - 1987 420SEL out of storage.

I've had my 1987 420SEL stored for two years. Used fuel stabilizer when I put her away.

Put the battery in, and ran the pump for a short while, cranked it, and started right up, and ran fine. That's the good news.

New Problem 1: The radio used to work. Now it does not even turn on. Fuse 2 has power at both ends. Where do I start?

New Problem 2: I started it at least 4 times over 4 days and let it run while I did other things. The 5th time - no crank. Everything else is ok. Up until after the 4th start, I had not put it into any gear but park and nuetral. So I am thinking the NSS has gone south, but it won't start in either park or nuetral. I climbed under the car and it does not appear broken. But it does not look easy to remove.
How do I check the NSS without removing it? Where are the solenoid connections so I can jump the starter to make sure the solenoid is ok? What is the switch replacement procedure?

New Problem 3: While checking #2 fuse in problem 1, I found fuse #1 blown. This is for the aux fan in front of the condenser. I replaced the fuse. Now the fan is on always when the key is on, even with the AC off and the engine cold. Could this be stuck relay? Which relay is it?

Learnings - the only other two issues I had that I could have avoided was to pop the hood often to exercise both the latching mechanisms and the pull strap. First, the hood would not unlatch, and then the starp broke when it did unlatch. I cleaned both latches up and the pivot on the hood strap, and now all works fine. Other than that, I could find no other issues.

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Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport
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  #2  
Old 07-11-2007, 10:21 PM
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Anybody?
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Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport
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  #3  
Old 07-11-2007, 11:54 PM
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Ok. Alot of the W126 had the old style alum fuses. They make an upgrade kit via ************** that uses copper replacements. Try spraying the fuses with wd-40 and rolling each one with your finger prior to starting it of course. If your radio is not working along with your pwr windows, this could be your culprit. I think the windows and radio are on the same fuse; ck your owners manual. Your connection on the batt may be in question; Try cleaning you terminals. The acc woes may also be secondary to terminals within the unit where it plugs into the wire harness behind; Use the search and you will find that many, like myself, had sucess resoldering the terminals. Fixed all my acc problems. Easier than spending 300$ for a new unit. The neutral safety sw: Verify a good batt, hold the key to sart with your left hand and work the shifter up/down. Your nss may just have a little corrosion. Had this happen to mine. The PO of my had it sitting outside for two years before I got it. Had all these issues and more. Finally, when you get it started, drive it..hard! You can't hurt it. The heat and vibrations may alleviate some other issues. Good luck
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:06 AM
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Location: Houston, Texas
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The fan starting when the car cold starts: if your car is like my 87, 260E, then your coolant temp sensor may be bad. The sensor (a switch in reality) is telling the rest of the circuit that the engine is very hot. On my 260E, the sensor is the 2nd last from the windshield side, on the engine. It has 3 terminals, single terminal is for compressor cut-off relay (Klima) and the other two terminals are for the aux. fan, and if you disconnect the two terminals, the fan should stop. And if the fan is on because of this temp sensor, it should be running on high speed. I had a similar problem after a prolonged period of not driving the car, there is somthing about lack of coolant circulation and these sensors going bad.

The radio problem also sounds familiar, one time I changed the battery and the radio died, never came back again, had to replace the front controller part.

About the starter lockout switch, in my car the power to the fuel pump relay, socket terminal 9, is available after the starter lockout switch (thats what the diagram seem to suggest), so if you get close to 12V on this terminal of the fuel relay socket, the lockout switch is fine and if you dont get 12V, the switch is bad. You can even tell from the buzz of the fuel pump when ignition is turned to run, a buzz means starter lockout switch is o.k.
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Old 07-12-2007, 05:31 PM
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Thanks Saumil
I'll go out in a bit and check all those suggestions out. The fan is definitely on high speed, and I did see a coolant switch with three terminals.
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Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport
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  #6  
Old 07-12-2007, 07:25 PM
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if it needs to be removed..

removing the NSS is easy, and should only take about 10 minutes , but remember to twist it to remove it from it's sockets , when you're under there you will see it's self explanitory,

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