98 C230 rear window won't go down - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mpolli · #1 06-26-2007, 12:52 PM

I am having trouble with my rear door window (drivers side). It will not go down. No matter which switch I use, switch on the door or switch on drivers console, it does not go down. Any tribal knowledge on this is appreciated. All other windows work fine. Is there any child-proof system that could cause this? From previous posts it appears that the motor incorporates a CAN computer. Any info appreciated.

Mike

mpolli · #2 07-07-2007, 11:16 PM

Well, I tore into the door today. I got the motor apart and got the controller board out (not easy). I worked all my magic and could not get it going. So I guess I will have to replace it. I have searched and not found anything on replacing the rear window regulator on the W202. It is held by 4 rivets, will I have any trouble replacing these with bolts?

Thanks,

Mike

mpolli · #3 07-09-2007, 04:49 PM

I have ordered a new regulator from a junk yard and I went down to the dealer and got 4 new rivets for only 1.20 each!! Now to see if my rivet gun is big enough or if I will have to get a bigger one.

Hirnbeiss · #4 07-10-2007, 01:12 PM

I have found the Bosch motors to usually be the culprits. You can unscrew them using a torx screwdriver, pull out, grease the worm gear and re-install.

mpolli · #5 07-10-2007, 01:36 PM

When I tried to actuate the window it would not make any sound at all. I figured if anything was stuck it would at least make a click or something. When I disassembled the motor and pulled it out everything was pristine. The motor looked like it had only actuated very few times in its life which is true. I believe the problem is in the computer board however that is from a process of elimination. I don't have a HHT or MT-2500 to verify that. Hopefully the "new" part willl work.

Miike

mpolli · #6 07-14-2007, 11:57 PM

Well I put the "new" regulator/motor/controller in today and now everything is working again. I got it from a place in MA for 65.00 plus shipping which seemed pretty good compared to aftermarket of 300 and dealer of I don't want to guess...

I learned a couple of things: To drill out the rivets use a 1/4" bit and then punch the remainder through with a 1/8" dia punch. My rivet gun could fit the rivet and said it was able to handle that size but I think I now have carpal tunnel for life. I don't see any reason you could not use screws assuming you take precautions against loostening. The screw on the very top would be a little hard to get the nut on however

While I was in there I though I would try to figure out why I sometimes get water in the foot wells inside the car. With the door closed and the plastic peeled back I sprayed the door with water. Water was coming inside the door like a typhoon, splashing all over. It seemed the rubber gasket against the glass was not even slowing it down. It had built up some "dirt residue" or something on the "felt" of the seal and also on the glass. I cleaned this with a toothbrush so it was smooth again. I tested again and it was much improved. Water still gets in the door but it is not like a flood. Then I sealed the bottom of the plastic sheet very well with RTV, as close as I could to the inside edge of the sheet metal.

Mike