OK,,, I give up - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

manny · #16 07-19-2007, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Geither

I think I can stand a dime on its edge on the hood with the engine idleing.

Do you still have a dime left after the repair?

Pete Geither · #17 07-19-2007, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manny

Do you still have a dime left after the repair?

Yep,,, diagnostic, parts and install were $184.
This is one time I should have seen my indy first, but hell,,, you never know.

brookspw · #18 08-04-2009, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlomon

The idle surge problem with my C280 was caused by the purge valve/regeneration valve. Every time the code was tripped for it, I would clean it out with some WD40, as per Arthur's method. I finally got tired of doing that all the time and I just bought a new valve Instant cure. Your E320 has the same M104 engine so it might be worth looking at. To test the purge valve just hold it in your hand while the car is running. You should feel it pulsing, like a heartbeat. If it isn't pulsing, it ain't working. It takes all of 3 minutes to replace, no tools required.

Someone please tell me where this is located in my 94 C280. New MAF an EA...still surging.

jlomon · #19 08-05-2009, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brookspw

Someone please tell me where this is located in my 94 C280. New MAF an EA...still surging.

Under the hood, on the driver's side, front of the fender well. Very close to the ABS pump. One electrical connection, plus one vacuum hose leading into the back and one vacuum hose leading out the front. The letters "MOT" are on the top of the unit. Here is what it looks like:

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1994-MERCEDES--BENZ-C--80&yearid=1994%40%401994&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6333%3AMBC|1556%3AED|10000015%40%40C280&mode=SS&yearid=1994%40%401994&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6333%3AMBC|1556%3AED|10000015%40%40C280

steven321 · #20 08-05-2009, 02:28 PM

hai pete,
dont worry it will be minus now but it will be lesson for you,

for other works.
------------------------------------

steven

view for free communication

brookspw · #21 08-07-2009, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlomon

The idle surge problem with my C280 was caused by the purge valve/regeneration valve. Every time the code was tripped for it, I would clean it out with some WD40, as per Arthur's method. I finally got tired of doing that all the time and I just bought a new valve Instant cure. Your E320 has the same M104 engine so it might be worth looking at. To test the purge valve just hold it in your hand while the car is running. You should feel it pulsing, like a heartbeat. If it isn't pulsing, it ain't working. It takes all of 3 minutes to replace, no tools required.

How did you "clean it out"? I assume you mean that you used qtip type cleaners with wd40 and just cleaned out the passages as best a you could? I do not feel a "pulsing" of any kind.

Arthur Dalton · #22 08-07-2009, 02:34 PM

If running WD40 thru the valve and lines does not clean it up , I have a good technique for stubborn ones with stuck pintles

The main part that hangs up is the pintle pin from the solinoid ...so, you take the valve off the car and squirt BP Blaster or carb cleaner into the valve and leave it over-night UPSIDE DOWN... that gets into the pintle pin and frees it up. The trick is the next day, you hook 12V battery power to one terminal and touch the other very rapidly ON/OFF..that exercises the pintle pin and frees it up.. some tapping on the side helps.....you will know when it is free b/c you wll hear/feel it clicking.
You then blow air thru the vavle ports in the direction of the arrow.

When you can feel it pulse and you can blow thru it only in the direction of the arrow, you are done and it can be installed on the car w/arrow facing engine flow.
Then idle until up to temp and feel it in your hand , ..you should feel the pulses [ 5-20Htz].
You may also want to take an Om reading across the sol. terminals before cleaning to be sure the coil is good.,, you are looking for 40-50 Ohms.....if no , don't bother..

brookspw · #23 08-08-2009, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton

If running WD40 thru the valve and lines does not clean it up , I have a good technique for stubborn ones with stuck pintles

The main part that hangs up is the pintle pin from the solinoid ...so, you take the valve off the car and squirt BP Blaster or carb cleaner into the valve and leave it over-night UPSIDE DOWN... that gets into the pintle pin and frees it up. The trick is the next day, you hook 12V battery power to one terminal and touch the other very rapidly ON/OFF..that exercises the pintle pin and frees it up.. some tapping on the side helps.....you will know when it is free b/c you wll hear/feel it clicking.
You then blow air thru the vavle ports in the direction of the arrow.

When you can feel it pulse and you can blow thru it only in the direction of the arrow, you are done and it can be installed on the car w/arrow facing engine flow.
Then idle until up to temp and feel it in your hand , ..you should feel the pulses [ 5-20Htz].
You may also want to take an Om reading across the sol. terminals before cleaning to be sure the coil is good.,, you are looking for 40-50 Ohms.....if no , don't bother..

What is the best (safest) way to do this?

Arthur Dalton · #24 08-08-2009, 12:28 PM

<>

Huh ??

I just gave you step by step instructions on how to do it..

brookspw · #25 08-08-2009, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton

<>

Huh ??

I just gave you step by step instructions on how to do it..

I was talking about the bolded part only -- how to hook it up straight to 12 volt. I appreciate the step by step mucho.

You say that air passage should be free only one way -- do you recall which way. My pintle is evidently stuck as airflow won't pass either way -- I have is soaking now.

Arthur Dalton · #26 08-08-2009, 01:06 PM

Question -- what should I see as a correct result. Air passage closed both ways, one way, which way, etc? You alluded to this...but what specifics?[/QUOTE]

I alluded ????

It is a valve ..it can not flow until it is ON...it is a Directional valve..so it flows in the DIRECTION of the ARROW when it is ON...the signalis pulsed so as to meter the flow. [@ 5-20 htz, depending on ECU mapping]

Thats the specifics.

brookspw · #27 08-08-2009, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton

Question -- what should I see as a correct result. Air passage closed both ways, one way, which way, etc? You alluded to this...but what specifics?

I alluded ????

It is a valve ..it can not flow until it is ON...it is a Directional valve..so it flows in the DIRECTION of the ARROW when it is ON...the signalis pulsed so as to meter the flow. [@ 5-20 htz, depending on ECU mapping]

Thats the specifics.[/QUOTE]

I clarified my post, Arthur, I guess as you were replying to it. I don't have the knowledge you do so I'm learning as we go. Now, to hook it up to 12v -- just use jump wires direct to car battery or what?

brookspw · #28 08-08-2009, 01:11 PM

Update:

I'm standing at my workbench looking at this thing -- had been soaking with wd40 -- and about 12" away is a square 9v battery I had taken out of a smoke detector. I'm like, what the heck, let's see if it activates this valve.

Sure enough -- click, click, click. Click -- air goes through valve no problem. Seems loose and opening/closing properly.

Put it on the car...plug it in...nothing. Maybe it is working...but no pulsing/clicking anything.

Arthur Dalton · #29 08-08-2009, 01:39 PM

Any 12v DC source...hook one side to one terminal and every time you touch the other terminal to complete the circuit, the valve should open/close..
If you soak the vave in some cleaner and do the 12v intermittant hook up, that should exercize the valve ..and you will hear it and you will feel it pulsing with each sig input.

That is what my post said to do.

.but it also said to confirm the coil of the valve is good by OHM reading it ..I even gave you the OHM SPECIFICS...cuz if the coil winding is an OPEN circuit, you can clean the valve til the cows come home without it working...so , I included that as a precautionary FIRST step.

Sounds specific to me. If it is not clear to you , then maybe just go buy a new one,.

brookspw · #30 08-08-2009, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton

Any 12v DC source...hook one side to one terminal and every time you touch the other terminal to complete the circuit, the valve should open/close..
If you soak the vave in some cleaner and do the 12v intermittant hook up, that should exercize the valve ..and you will hear it and you will feel it pulsing with each sig input.

That is what my post said to do.

.but it also said to confirm the coil of the valve is good by OHM reading it ..I even gave you the OHM SPECIFICS...cuz if the coil winding is an OPEN circuit, you can clean the valve til the cows come home without it working...so , I included that as a precautionary FIRST step.

Sounds specific to me. If it is not clear to you , then maybe just go buy a new one,.

Ok, now I'll check the ohms.