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  #1  
Old 07-17-2007, 09:12 AM
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Check the EGR pipes for blockage.

http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20134.html
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Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

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  #2  
Old 07-17-2007, 10:49 AM
Pete Geither's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbain5280 View Post
Check the EGR pipes for blockage.

http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20134.html
Did the new EGR about 2 months ago. Surging started shortly after that and am wondering if there might be a tie in there.
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Last edited by Pete Geither; 07-17-2007 at 10:55 AM.
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2007, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Geither View Post
Did the new EGR about 2 months ago. Surging started shortly after that and am wondering if there might be a tie in there.
I have seen EGR SOV valves not closing completely ..this will effect egr closing.
The test is to put a BB in the vac line between the egr element port and the SOV and run the car for a few days.
No surge = you have narrowed down the cause.

I also do a manual egr test and part of that test is to make sure the egr SNAPS shut.

As the problem came with EGR change, it also possible that you have a simple vac leak anywhere in between the egr and the intake at the engine ..this could be as simple as the mount bolts/gasket at the intake side or a loose fitting of the cross tube from the valve..

Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 07-17-2007 at 02:47 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-17-2007, 11:45 AM
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The idle surge problem with my C280 was caused by the purge valve/regeneration valve. Every time the code was tripped for it, I would clean it out with some WD40, as per Arthur's method. I finally got tired of doing that all the time and I just bought a new valve Instant cure. Your E320 has the same M104 engine so it might be worth looking at. To test the purge valve just hold it in your hand while the car is running. You should feel it pulsing, like a heartbeat. If it isn't pulsing, it ain't working. It takes all of 3 minutes to replace, no tools required.
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  #5  
Old 07-18-2007, 03:41 PM
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I was just out checking on the car and they told me "it's fixed". Said I had 2 bad vaccum hoses under the car some where. I hope to get more specifics when I pick the car up. Great news though.
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  #6  
Old 07-18-2007, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Geither View Post
I was just out checking on the car and they told me "it's fixed". Said I had 2 bad vaccum hoses under the car some where. I hope to get more specifics when I pick the car up. Great news though.
I want to see a photo of these two bad vacuum hoses gold plated and mounted on your wall.
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  #7  
Old 07-18-2007, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by suginami View Post
I want to see a photo of these two bad vacuum hoses gold plated and mounted on your wall.
Son of a gun Paul,,,, they threw them away already.
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  #8  
Old 08-04-2009, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlomon View Post
The idle surge problem with my C280 was caused by the purge valve/regeneration valve. Every time the code was tripped for it, I would clean it out with some WD40, as per Arthur's method. I finally got tired of doing that all the time and I just bought a new valve Instant cure. Your E320 has the same M104 engine so it might be worth looking at. To test the purge valve just hold it in your hand while the car is running. You should feel it pulsing, like a heartbeat. If it isn't pulsing, it ain't working. It takes all of 3 minutes to replace, no tools required.
Someone please tell me where this is located in my 94 C280. New MAF an EA...still surging.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #9  
Old 08-05-2009, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brookspw View Post
Someone please tell me where this is located in my 94 C280. New MAF an EA...still surging.
Under the hood, on the driver's side, front of the fender well. Very close to the ABS pump. One electrical connection, plus one vacuum hose leading into the back and one vacuum hose leading out the front. The letters "MOT" are on the top of the unit. Here is what it looks like:

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1994-MERCEDES--BENZ-C--80&yearid=1994%40%401994&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6333%3AMBC|1556%3AED|10000015%40%40C280&mode=SS&yearid=1994%40%401994&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6333%3AMBC|1556%3AED|10000015%40%40C280
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  #10  
Old 08-07-2009, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlomon View Post
The idle surge problem with my C280 was caused by the purge valve/regeneration valve. Every time the code was tripped for it, I would clean it out with some WD40, as per Arthur's method. I finally got tired of doing that all the time and I just bought a new valve Instant cure. Your E320 has the same M104 engine so it might be worth looking at. To test the purge valve just hold it in your hand while the car is running. You should feel it pulsing, like a heartbeat. If it isn't pulsing, it ain't working. It takes all of 3 minutes to replace, no tools required.
How did you "clean it out"? I assume you mean that you used qtip type cleaners with wd40 and just cleaned out the passages as best a you could? I do not feel a "pulsing" of any kind.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #11  
Old 08-07-2009, 02:34 PM
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If running WD40 thru the valve and lines does not clean it up , I have a good technique for stubborn ones with stuck pintles

The main part that hangs up is the pintle pin from the solinoid ...so, you take the valve off the car and squirt BP Blaster or carb cleaner into the valve and leave it over-night UPSIDE DOWN... that gets into the pintle pin and frees it up. The trick is the next day, you hook 12V battery power to one terminal and touch the other very rapidly ON/OFF..that exercises the pintle pin and frees it up.. some tapping on the side helps.....you will know when it is free b/c you wll hear/feel it clicking.
You then blow air thru the vavle ports in the direction of the arrow.

When you can feel it pulse and you can blow thru it only in the direction of the arrow, you are done and it can be installed on the car w/arrow facing engine flow.
Then idle until up to temp and feel it in your hand , ..you should feel the pulses [ 5-20Htz].
You may also want to take an Om reading across the sol. terminals before cleaning to be sure the coil is good.,, you are looking for 40-50 Ohms.....if no , don't bother..
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Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 08-07-2009 at 02:50 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2009, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton View Post
If running WD40 thru the valve and lines does not clean it up , I have a good technique for stubborn ones with stuck pintles

The main part that hangs up is the pintle pin from the solinoid ...so, you take the valve off the car and squirt BP Blaster or carb cleaner into the valve and leave it over-night UPSIDE DOWN... that gets into the pintle pin and frees it up. The trick is the next day, you hook 12V battery power to one terminal and touch the other very rapidly ON/OFF..that exercises the pintle pin and frees it up.. some tapping on the side helps.....you will know when it is free b/c you wll hear/feel it clicking.
You then blow air thru the vavle ports in the direction of the arrow.

When you can feel it pulse and you can blow thru it only in the direction of the arrow, you are done and it can be installed on the car w/arrow facing engine flow.
Then idle until up to temp and feel it in your hand , ..you should feel the pulses [ 5-20Htz].
You may also want to take an Om reading across the sol. terminals before cleaning to be sure the coil is good.,, you are looking for 40-50 Ohms.....if no , don't bother..
What is the best (safest) way to do this?
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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