So you can replace the B1 seal by compressing the cover and spring, and not removing the B1 spring and piston? It was never clear to me whether the spring had to come out to install a new seal.

Well, no you can't reach the sealing o-ring by just compressing the B1 cover -the o-ring is about 1/4 inch in, and the cover will compress in only about 0.050. So, push the cover in, hold it against about 50 lb spring pressure (you will need some kind of tool to hold it in, unless you are Arnold) and remove the c-clamp. Then release the cover and let it slide out. The piston can then be easily pulled out. This B1 piston assembly, and band, must be removed to service the B3 clutch plates. The front cover/pump and the K1 clutch will come right out with the B1 still in, but the B3 clutch is behind it.

DG

Thanks guys - after reading through the documentation I noticed the "special" tool mentioned that does the compression and we thought we could probably fabricate something to substitute. Sounds like you guys have devised your own methods using a C clamp. Since I'm a woodworker (hobby) I've plenty of C Clamps, and I've got a metric tap and die set (not sure it's the right thread, but I guess I'll find out)...so it seems I have all the tools I need and now I just need enough nerve and patience to proceed.

Also, thanks for mentioning the fact you jacked up the rear end as well to help with the clearance. I was wondering if that would help. I always get a little nervous when I have a 2 ton car up in the air with no tires touching and I'm crawling around underneath it.

The tip on removing the oil filter was insightful as well - thanks.

Did you guys buy your rebuild kit from this an MB dealer, this site, some other place? Once response indicated I should definitely use OEM parts which certainly seems wise in this case.

Tomorrow I'm leaving town and will be out of pocket for about a week, so if I don't respond to any thread questions it's not because I've become disinterested - just won't have computer access.

thanks again guys. Your responses have given me some encouragement.

Oh - one last question - It appears I will need some torque wrenche(s). What's your reccomendations? I've got the big stuff, but I don't have the 3/8" or 1/4" size torque wrenches (unless my buddy does).

Dave

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92 300E - 116K miles - Sold
77 Euro 350SL - 67k miles
94 Explorer 147k miles
2009 Hyundai Genesis - 65k miles

DG - Sorry, I misunderstood your explanation of the C clamp. I now see what you're saying about the c clamp (part of the tranny). I'll need to fabricate something to compress the spring and that you devised a solution using a bolt and large wrench. DUH....Just finished my 1st cup of coffee

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92 300E - 116K miles - Sold
77 Euro 350SL - 67k miles
94 Explorer 147k miles
2009 Hyundai Genesis - 65k miles

I removed and replaced (and did a fix, but not a rebuild) on my 80 W116 300SD without the HF tranny jack. I was not comfortable jacking the car high enough to make use of that tranny jack ( which has a very high scissor base), so I lowered it using a standard trolley jack. Worked Ok. I replaced it using 2 trolley jacks, front and rear to adjust height. I was working alone so it was a bit tough- with 2 people to keep it balanced you could do it easily enough.

An even easier way to remove it would be to find about 3 nesting cardboard boxes that fit under the tranny. Drop the tranny on those and cut them away one by one.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)