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  #1  
Old 08-01-2007, 09:14 AM
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Location: CC, TX
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testing power windows ?

my power window is stuck part way open. The center console switches are brand new so I don't think thats the problem. The old switches were kinda cruddy and cleaning them did not help so I replaced them.

I removed the door panel but don't know how to trouble shoot further.

There are too wires coming from the motor and attached to the door shell, GREEN and BLACK. I'm assuming these are the power wires to the motor. Since there are only two wires I assume one is positive and one is negative and then they reverse polarity when the switch is operated in the opposite position.

Is this a correct assumption? How do I test the motor and or wiring? Should there be continuity on an OHM meter between the two wires if the motor is good? Should there only be 12 volt power present when the window switch is pressed, and then only power to one or the other of the wires depending on which way the switch is pressed?

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #2  
Old 08-01-2007, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odie View Post
There are too wires coming from the motor and attached to the door shell, GREEN and BLACK. I'm assuming these are the power wires to the motor. Since there are only two wires I assume one is positive and one is negative and then they reverse polarity when the switch is operated in the opposite position. Is this a correct assumption?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by odie View Post
How do I test the motor and or wiring?
Easiest way is to connect battery charger leads (or from battery leads) directly to the motor wires. That will put your window up at least, if the motor is good, which is the case 95% of the time I'd expect.

From here, you need to troubleshoot the wiring. A schematic helps, if you can read one. Another method is to compare the current flow between the switch and the motor wires on the opposite door. They should work the same, so a wire not showing current/voltage on the 'bad' door should lead you to the problem, very often a bad ground or connection.
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  #3  
Old 08-01-2007, 01:03 PM
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OK, sounds like I'm on the right track.... I'll get out the OHM meter and go to work....
__________________
1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #4  
Old 08-03-2007, 03:34 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: CC, TX
Posts: 771
the wires have power when the switch is pushed so that's good.

the motor checks good continuity, 1.1 ohms, so it does not seem to be burnt out. I disconnected the door wires so i did not get a false continuity check.

I guess the motor might have dust on need the contacts/brushes cleaned.

__________________
1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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