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#1
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94 C280 A/C problem, please help !!! it's 105 out there!
I have a 1994 C280. A/C has always been fine. I had it checked about 10 days ago, because it was not as cool as it used to be and we're having a heat wave & temps around 105 in NC. The shop told me they put 2 lbs of freon in it and I might have a small leak on the evaporator core. After I got it back from the shop, it was cool for about 2 days and now nothing ! it just blows regular air, no matter what temp I set it on. The shop said the evaporator needs to be changed, therefore the dash has to be taken out, and it'll cost $1,500 - $2,000...
I've gone thru many posts on this forum this time and in the past and decided to join to get another opinion. Any suggestions about what could be the problem ? I just know enough about cars to be able to change the oil , but if there are some things I can check to isolate the problem, I can do it. I read about Klima ? relay ?, accumulator with a cracked sight glass that resulted in the same problem I have,... what else ? Thanks |
#2
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sounds like a pretty cut and dry leak to me. I cant help you troubleshoot where the leak actually is. In regards to the klima, If it blew cold after a recharge and and now warm, I am pretty sure it would have nothing to do with the klima relay
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#3
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Thanks Chrislk02. So you think it's the actual evaporator core that needs to be changed ? I looked thru the sight glass on the accumulator this morning and when I turn on the A/C, I can see some liquid down there moving. Should it not be completely empty if it leaks that much ?
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#4
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Did the a/c shop charge your system with stop leak ? This is a heavier grade oil and would make your freon last a little longer, try it may get you thru the summer.
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Saumil S. Patel |
#5
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I don't know if they did. All I know is that it's blowing hot air this afternoon. It's just strange how it got messed up so quickly after they put the 2 lbs of freon in it. Should I take it back and ask them to add stop leak and freon in the system ? Would stop leak prevent a leak in the evaporator core ?
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#6
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Stop Leak seals the joints better, if the hole is large, nothing works for a long time, but stop leak should work better than the rest of the oils.
Hope this is a a/c shop and not a generic mechanic, the a/c shops normally would have recommended stop leak or some variant. You should ask them and try refilling it with stop leak.
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Saumil S. Patel |
#7
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It's interesting that they put 2lb in. The 96 C280 (and my C36) take 1.1lb. I wouldn't have thought your system would be that different. In any case, the specifications should be on a sticker on the underside of the hood. I'd be curious to see what it says a full charge is for your system.
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'96 C280 (gone) '97 C36 '05 C230k |
#8
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Yes i know all about that procedure just got done doing a 1995 E300. If they are willing to do it for $1500 you better take them up on it because it is pretty complex you have to litterally take half the car apart to do it
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1987 MB 300 TD 1994 Ford F250 1995 MB 300E Diesel 1999 Ford F150 Lariat 2000 Dodge Caravan 2005 Ford F150 King Ranch |
#9
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I checked the tag under the hood. It says 2.1 lbs, so it must have been really low when they added the freon. Also, I just drove the car and the low coolant level light came on the dash when I parked ? Would that have something to do with the A/C not working ? I really don't know jack about cars !
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#10
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Introduce Dye Into Your System
Did they put dye in?
If not then get your system recharged and put some stop leak & dye into the system. As mentioned the stop leak will plug it if the leak is small enough if not the dye will let you know where the leak is. Hope This Helps!
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William ________________________________________ 1987 420 SEL - Like a fine wine only better with age |
#11
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I believe the A/C shop put a dye in it. I just found the receipt and they actually wrote "1/2 lb freon and evaporator core leaking". Don't know why the guy told me 2 lbs on the phone. Anyway, I'll try to get it recharged with some stop leak before taking the car apart. Any advice on the type of "Stop Leak" to get, that will not deteriorate in the long run ? Thank you
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#12
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I'd recommend against using any stop-leak on it. It may plug the leak but it also could plug the expansion valve, condensor, receiver dryer (are you getting the point?). If the one shop you went to determined it to be the evaporator why not just bring it to another shop and don't necessarily tell them what the other shop said, just tell them you recently had some refrigerant added and now it is not cooling at all. Tell them you would like them to put dye (only not leak stopper) in it and find the leak then you will know if both techs independantly conclude it is the evaporator you will be pretty sure that is what is at fault. Just bite the bullet and have it fixed, don't mess around with band-aids, they cause more problems than they cure. Don't use a leak-stopper unless your goal is to get it working long enough to sell it...that's why used car dealers like that stuff.
If you are lucky they will find the leak is actually in the condensor and not the evaporator...the condensor is a MUCH easier part to replace. If it is the evaporator then $1500-$2000 is not unreasonable for parts and labor...in fact it is cheap.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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