Nope, dont need a torque wrench at all, I would recommend not using one on plugs at all. Just screw them in finger tight until they wont go any more and then tighten with socket another 1/4 turn. And done. Biggest thing is getting them out. Sometimes they get in there tight. Find yourself a guy that has done some mech work before and he can break them loose for you, easy. Just take masking tape and mark each plug wire and pull them all off, then as soon as your help ( if you cant break them free yourself, give each one a try) can show up all they have to do is put the socket on the plug and loosen and they are on their way.


No glue or adheasive holds the vac connections on at all, they just get stuck on tight sometimes. If you have enough tubing,, it is not an issue to cut the old connector of, just cut close to the end as you can usually there is plenty of vac line to cut an inch or less off.

That last hose is sort of fused
like varnish

Does that go to the O2 sensor?
what sort of round cannister valve is on driver side at the exhaust?

:D
I did read screw them by hand first as you don't want to cross threas & strip head

I kind of grew up with mechanics so some dirt & grease rubbed off

:D

Kind of like working on the car
We're bonding....

Might have to get an eviction notice out
Some baby spiders were setting up home in the drivers side door handle
One was on me today
Didn't realize til tonight when I saw 5 of them crawing & making webs

Seems I have attack spiders protecting the car

:scream:

Thanks so much

Nice to get some car lovin from the Heartland...

:P

Might try to get leasy one of the 8 out if I have the tool
Just liek to see what they look like
I do know you can tell alot about the cylindewr from the plug

Hoping mine are healthy...

:D

CS,
Enrique thinks it is fine cause it isnt his to drive, it is running so it must be ok...lots of busy mechanics start to think this way. if it isi running and starting it is ok, but they dont deal with it everyday and get used to its issues and know the things it does everyday.
Trust me, it will be money well spent to do the wires, plugs, rotor and cap.
Dont be concerned about manufacturer of the parts, they are all about the same, really. yes, the rotor is a rotor, doesnt matter if it is not a bosch it will work if it is the correct part, just diff manufacturer.
Cap and rotor look like a good price, some are lots more, good deal there. Plugs manufactrure are more important, use Bosch and use what they say to use, not anything fancy or expensive. MB engines prefer the plug the factory wanted, often they even run poor with the fancy platinum or irridium material plugs at 4 to 5 times the cost. Buy what the site recommends, if they dont, buy Bosch factory plug that the manual recommends or the standard Bosch plug.
I dont want to talk you into anything that will leave your car in pieces, but plugs, wires and cap and rotor can be very simple if not rewarding. That said, I would at least order the parts and find someone to doit for you with your parts, they will not give you as good prices and the plugs and wires job can be done by any one with a shop, no need to be a specific MN shop if you dont want, plugs and wires and cap and rotor are childs play for any mechanic anywhere. that engine is super simple to deal with. Cant hardly mess the wire and plug job and you should be able to get a shop that charges less than the MB shops to do it with your parts.

I appreciate & share your sentiments
Really I do
Cars are not hunks of metal to me
They become a part of you\
an extension of yourself there
wheels spinning into your destiny

I kind of love this car

Thank You!

:D

Oooh its late in Illy

Sleep well
Sweet Benz dreams....

aks your mech to pull them out for you if you need to but have him keep them for you to look at. AS you say, you can learn alot from them.
I would try to see if you can get them out yourself, it is a learning experience and there is not much to go wrong. Big guys can be dangerous since they will sometimes push away on a stuck plug and eventually break on in the block. They takes a guy to really put a lot of power to them, I am thinking you are not going to do this like super woman and break anything, no offense. It takes alot to break them, but that is really the only thing that can go wrong and it is not common.
Note, if you can change say 4 and 4 are too tight, you just mark which ones are changed, do the ones you can, and take the car to a shop and have them check your work and do the other 4, it does not harm to drive with a mix of new and old for a short time.
O2 sensor does not use vac at all. It uses a signal wire, likley a 12 volt power wire to heat the sensor to speed up operating temp and possibly a ground wire, can have 1,2,3 and 4 wire o2 sensors. A car of your year likely has a 2 oe three wire. It is a heated o2 sensor and yes, it doesnt provide s usable signal until it has reached operating temp from the heater built in to it and the heat from the exhaust that it is mounted in.

Thanks
just curious what the vacumn valve on the drivers side exaust is?
Looks like a vacumn exhAUST LIKE THE ONE ooops off distributor cap.

I'm 100 pounds
I'm pretty strong
but I don't think I'll brealk anything...

:scream:

is the canister you are talking about on the exhaut bolted on to the exhaust manifold comming off the engine and down to the exhaust to the underside of the car?
If so, it is likey the EGR valve, just an emissions control, adjusts engine acording to the pressure that is occuring at the exhaust manifold.

That's good
Not sure
but the darn thing won't budge & it gave me blisters

Been thinking I should get air assemly cover off
this way I can see where those vac hoses lead

That really hard one is a lil smaller tubing & its red lined not blue.
Wonder if there are any vacum hoses under it or do the tubes go into a part?

I have to be careful about ordering parts like distrib cap etc
as first my car is a Euro
secondly its more of a 82 car & standard lists may have the wrong part
unless these parts were the same in the 84 500 SEC?

Thank you for sharing in my new benz...

:cool:

Pic of the stubborn pink hose
 

this is the stubborn one
you can partially see the metal cylinder round vslve it hooks too

Looks like the blue tubing was spliced w a rubber hose?

Hey I untapped the under the brittle hardened elec tape on the top vac hose on the warm up reg & its severed half way thru on the part on top of the metal part between where the fat part turns into the narrow
must have been leaking

I taped it up really well but don't know if tape could make a vacumn

Does it have Euro foglights on it?
 

This is unrelated, but I am wondering if your car being a Euro has the left hand rear fog lamp, another thing the DOT denied us who purchased US spec cars

Maybe you could check this the next time you are downstairs in the garage

Your headlight off/on switch should have a small orange dot in the center of it.

When you turn on the headlights, if you twist the headlight on/off switch ALL the way to the right, and pull it TOWARDS you to the very last detent, the orange light would illuminate, and the rear fog light would be on.

On the US spec W126 cars, they are not even WIRED for a rear foglight, and they don't even have a little bulb in the switch that would let the little orange dot be lit up. One more thing US buyers of the W126 SEC/SEL got cheated out of.

(On the Euro SEC, the rear fog light would be lit if you see that a red portion of the left rear taillight cluster would be much brighter, with the headlights on, and that bulb would be the rear fog light for this car.)

I was wondering if your car had that feature, and if ALL Euro 126ers had it.

For that matter, there MIGHT be a similar feature in your Volvo too. There were a lot of Euro 740 and 240 Volvos also. You can spot them very easily because their front turn signal corners are half clear and half orange in color, while the US spec one are all orange.

Your 1988 Volvo might still have the rear foglight switch on it, I honestly cannot remember if mine did.:confused:

Thank you for looking.

There is a red or maybe orange center dor in the center of the light on/off swtich

I did notice with parking lights on
left rear light had a bulb lit all the way on side
don't think right did
I thought bulb might have been burned

Do I have it?

I never oulled it toward me thought I thought it looked brighter on outside left rear side on the light


So do you think that half way cracked taped vac hose on the warm u reg
was a problem?

Hope it wroks a bit better but that just controlls early operation
so maybe not much of an affect
but that could have been why I was getting high start up idle????

:D

not sure what you mean about Volvo
think its US but I don't know

fFastlane has ceramic fuses too
might order there
good price
except his white & red are white metal
so might order the blue

You like Beru ign wires?
Those are about $55 more than Bosch
would my car tell the difference?

Well sometimes you know, I have been thinking...

Maybe this Mercedes business is just too much. I was thinking about just getting rid of it and starting over with a new Mercury Grand Marquis.

But then again, maybe I'm waaaaaaaaaay too young for one. I don't know. I wonder what I should do.:confused::eek:

...

Oh my paws and whiskers, 2,000 posts!!!!:laugh3::scream:

http://twopointoh.com/misc/GrandMarquisAd.jpg

CS...
Tape makes a crumby vac seal, replace it when you can.

That metal canister you are wondering about is the EGR valve, nothing to pay much attention to, just make sure the vac lines to it and the others areall good and they are not leaking.
CH

Only you can decide to pay the extra for the Beru wires. Some say yes, some say no...I say what ever, just take care of your car and be able to afford it. I would personnaly say that your car will not likely notice a difference either way. One might....maybe last longer, but which one, who knows. Buy what you want,they are both good quality.

Fixing bad vac lines is ALWAYS worth it.