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  #1  
Old 09-06-2007, 02:29 PM
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Location: Connecticut
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Cleaning throttle body on M103 2.6

Simple question about cleaning the throttle body on this '89 190E 2.6. The instructions say to remove the air boot that connects to the throttle body, use a shop rag to absorb excess product, then start spraying while playing with the butterfly valve. This car seems to be different though. Can I do the procedure by only taking the cleaner cover off, and not the entire assembly? Is this the throttle body (see pictures below) or is it hidden somewhere under the actual air filter assembly?

The product:


My air cleaner with the cover off:


The valve pushes in kinda sideways:
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2007, 08:37 PM
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To answer my own question, it seems that the throttle body on this car is hidden underneath that valve. I decided not to take it apart but rather to push it down, then spray and clean as much as possible. I let it soak for 10 minutes or so, got the extra fluid out, started the car, then sprayed small quantities with the car running. Not too much dirt came out, the car only has 128k miles.
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  #3  
Old 10-15-2007, 10:29 PM
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id suggest taking a lint free rag and wiping down the outer rim of the throttle body plate .. lots of build up on there..
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2007, 07:57 AM
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Hi,

You can remove the entire air cleaner and expose the entire throttle body and Fuel distributor.

From there push the sensor plate down. Look inside, it should be chrome metal in color; however ours all should be black with soot and gunk. While having the sensor plate down, spray at the visible black gunk and you will see them flow down and expose the real metal color beneath. This is what you should achieve.

Spray as much as possible to remove as much gunk as possible. The excess will flow into the engine to be combusted when you fire the engine.

While you have the air cleaner off, might as well look behind near to windscreen and see the Idle control valve; a cylindrical looking metal bottle resting on the intake manifold. Remove the electrical connection and top and bottom hose ane look into the valve. It should be chrome as well. Spray the carb cleaner inside and shake off the excess. If you have a 9v battery, you can test it to see the valve closing and opening ( I gathered from someone else on this -) )

Also check that all the vaccum hoses and three way rubber hoses on the intake manifold are intake and CRACK free. Replace or push the plastic tube in more if necessary.

Check for any wiring harness that is cracked open exposing bare wires. These can be remedied using splicing tape. Seperate the pair and tape them up.

Enjoy. You might find more chores when you are more familiar and daring.
__________________
1992 200E
M102
102.963
AKA Silver Old Grumpy
Always hope I can freeze someone with the aircon- Just change the compressor again, Subseal leaked with a psssssssss sound.
Its the NON-3 Pointed star items on my car that cost more to repair.$%^&%%*^&
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2007, 07:59 AM
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Erm, what I mentioned above is for the 124. it may not apply fully to you. but hope it helps!

Thanks
__________________
1992 200E
M102
102.963
AKA Silver Old Grumpy
Always hope I can freeze someone with the aircon- Just change the compressor again, Subseal leaked with a psssssssss sound.
Its the NON-3 Pointed star items on my car that cost more to repair.$%^&%%*^&
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2007, 09:26 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,788
What is important is to clean the gap between the throttle plate and bore. I use a toothbrush to remove the tenacious deposits until I see metal.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 140K
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2007, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vegadonovan View Post
Hi,

You can remove the entire air cleaner and expose the entire throttle body and Fuel distributor.

From there push the sensor plate down. Look inside, it should be chrome metal in color; however ours all should be black with soot and gunk. While having the sensor plate down, spray at the visible black gunk and you will see them flow down and expose the real metal color beneath. This is what you should achieve.

Spray as much as possible to remove as much gunk as possible. The excess will flow into the engine to be combusted when you fire the engine.

While you have the air cleaner off, might as well look behind near to windscreen and see the Idle control valve; a cylindrical looking metal bottle resting on the intake manifold. Remove the electrical connection and top and bottom hose ane look into the valve. It should be chrome as well. Spray the carb cleaner inside and shake off the excess. If you have a 9v battery, you can test it to see the valve closing and opening ( I gathered from someone else on this -) )

Also check that all the vaccum hoses and three way rubber hoses on the intake manifold are intake and CRACK free. Replace or push the plastic tube in more if necessary.

Check for any wiring harness that is cracked open exposing bare wires. These can be remedied using splicing tape. Seperate the pair and tape them up.

Enjoy. You might find more chores when you are more familiar and daring.
Is it ok to have that gunk flow into the engine?
What about the 126
can you ppush the flap down & spray?

He's using BG
heard thats very good

Id be careful using it around a painted aircleaner as it eats the paint

I bought some intake carb etx spray cleaner fromthe 99 cents store
just to clean external gunk..wonder if it could hurt to get that sludge soot into the engine

Will have to look inside the flaps next time I have the air cleaner off.
There is one big vac hose next to the fuel dis
It looks ok...
I am tryng to be extra careful
I got daring changing vac hoses & broke the tvv vent in the hose.

Beware of the tvv...esp in old cars
its plastic & gets very brittle

Hoping the rest are on metal vents...

The bottom of the aircleaner around the port & tubing had some black soot which I wiped away so I guess I'd expect to see that inside
but does it really hurt anything?

I don;t have the standard icv
Mine is a bosch air valve
it has no electrical connections....
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2007, 03:46 PM
I told you so!
 
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Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,788
I'm cheap. I use gasoline to clean the throttle body. All parts should be compatible with gasoline, so I don't worry about solvent damage.
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2007, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas View Post
I'm cheap. I use gasoline to clean the throttle body. All parts should be compatible with gasoline, so I don't worry about solvent damage.
Guess its all petrol eum distillates..
I figured for 99 cents the can cleaner spray would work to clean various black soot...

nothing wrong w cheap
just have to know where not to cut ends.



Cause & effect
This universe seems to have an equilibrium
& you don't want to set the scales off balance...
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K
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  #10  
Old 10-17-2007, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
Is it ok to have that gunk flow into the engine?
What about the 126
can you ppush the flap down & spray?

He's using BG
heard thats very good

Id be careful using it around a painted aircleaner as it eats the paint

I bought some intake carb etx spray cleaner fromthe 99 cents store
just to clean external gunk..wonder if it could hurt to get that sludge soot into the engine

Will have to look inside the flaps next time I have the air cleaner off.
There is one big vac hose next to the fuel dis
It looks ok...
I am tryng to be extra careful
I got daring changing vac hoses & broke the tvv vent in the hose.

Beware of the tvv...esp in old cars
its plastic & gets very brittle

Hoping the rest are on metal vents...

The bottom of the aircleaner around the port & tubing had some black soot which I wiped away so I guess I'd expect to see that inside
but does it really hurt anything?

I don;t have the standard icv
Mine is a bosch air valve
it has no electrical connections....
Hi,

The carb cleaner is supposed to be combustible and it wouldn't hurt to have the gunk combusted and pushed out by the exhaust stroke.

The sensor plate can be pushed down but be careful not to exert excessive force when it doesn't go any further. Its metered and measured to some extent. So we should open it open enough to allow a view within to spray.

Make sure if you use anything to wipe, kleenex for example, DO NOT drop any small pieces inside if they get caught by the sensor plate.

It was mentioned that a clean engine gets additional care from the mechanic cause he knows you are merticulous in details.
__________________
1992 200E
M102
102.963
AKA Silver Old Grumpy
Always hope I can freeze someone with the aircon- Just change the compressor again, Subseal leaked with a psssssssss sound.
Its the NON-3 Pointed star items on my car that cost more to repair.$%^&%%*^&
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  #11  
Old 10-17-2007, 05:55 PM
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Location: Valley Village, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vegadonovan View Post
Hi,

The carb cleaner is supposed to be combustible and it wouldn't hurt to have the gunk combusted and pushed out by the exhaust stroke.

The sensor plate can be pushed down but be careful not to exert excessive force when it doesn't go any further. Its metered and measured to some extent. So we should open it open enough to allow a view within to spray.

Make sure if you use anything to wipe, kleenex for example, DO NOT drop any small pieces inside if they get caught by the sensor plate.

It was mentioned that a clean engine gets additional care from the mechanic cause he knows you are merticulous in details.
Thanks
I'd like to do this
Seems easy enough

Would you have to run the engine immediately after cleaning
or would waiting a day or 2 be ok?

I try not to force anything but
Thanks for the warning about the plate

Have no idea where the throttle plate gap or bore is?
Is that the inside wall?

maybe I'll forgo the tooth brush clean but
like to do it right.

Never would use paper anything to wipe anything inside an engine
thats a disaster waiting to unfold...

Have to be careful with rags too
sometimes the edges fray.

Will this improve performace or roadability?
Seems a little soot coating shouldn;t hurt too much
unless under the flap gets really thick causing a heaviness & drag.

Thanks for the info...

mine looks pretty clean outside?
Attached Thumbnails
Cleaning throttle body on M103 2.6-mbthrottlbody.jpg  
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-17-2007 at 07:01 PM.
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2007, 08:25 AM
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Posts: 86
I just start the engine after I finish spraying. The carb cleaner is compatible. My friend has experience that after the spray, the engine struggle for the first few moments to digest it. But I didn't. His was a Carb engine afterall.

Its supposed to be PM. not that you would get some extra miles I would say, but its one of those that you can be sure that are not part of the "could be wrong" checklist.

=)
__________________
1992 200E
M102
102.963
AKA Silver Old Grumpy
Always hope I can freeze someone with the aircon- Just change the compressor again, Subseal leaked with a psssssssss sound.
Its the NON-3 Pointed star items on my car that cost more to repair.$%^&%%*^&
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  #13  
Old 10-19-2007, 11:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Valley Village, CA
Posts: 1,163
Quote:
Originally Posted by vegadonovan View Post
I just start the engine after I finish spraying. The carb cleaner is compatible. My friend has experience that after the spray, the engine struggle for the first few moments to digest it. But I didn't. His was a Carb engine afterall.

Its supposed to be PM. not that you would get some extra miles I would say, but its one of those that you can be sure that are not part of the "could be wrong" checklist.

=)
ITs carb cleaner
I checked
says ok for o2 sensor

It does say to use it on a cold engine
& to let it dry
so I don't know
its sort of scary

I'd like to buy the right stuff for a few $ more

I bought the 99cents
more for external cleaning of parts where it isn't critical to have the best chemical...
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K
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