|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#1
09-25-2007, 03:58 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The vacuum connection on top is a vent and should not be connected anywhere it it's like anything I've ever seen.
On the WUR, you should have a connection on the back that goes to the intake manifold just below the FD via a three-way connector and a temp switch, and one in front that goes to a four-way connector.
__________________
Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe 
|
|
#2
09-25-2007, 04:36 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
but this is the pic & the car is a Euro prod date 5/10/82 but listed A 83 tHERE is a vac hose on top and its listed in 83 500 sec parts manual also the one in fron & back are alo plain either 45 or 60 vac hoses no tris coming off haven't traced them yet but they go under intake manifols area I do have a 4 way in fron of manifold have to check thats where it goes I boutght the 4 way vac hose yesterday but only got to do the one on top so far
__________________
~Shadow~  83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-25-2007 at 04:42 PM.
|
|
#3
09-25-2007, 04:45 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
reply to 500sec revving issue
My 84 euro 500sel had an issue w/ starting when warm but started well when cold. And on start up it wouldn't rev up until it ran for at least 10 seconds. Sometimes when hot i'd have to crank on it for at least 5-12 seconds. Quite embarrassing. It also kind of had a lack of power. Goofy me i gambled $100.00 took it to the closest benz dealer and he said fuel accumulator. Well the issue was the fuel accumulator was leaking back fuel pressure into the tank. Thus we weren't getting enough fuel. He temporaryily clamped the hose to the accumulator and it immediately had like another 10 horse and always started up and ran great. So i immediately removed the clamp and put a good accumulator on it. Hope this helps.
|
|
#4
09-25-2007, 04:51 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Didn't notice any power problem but I;m new to the car & used to a 4 cyl. Starts right up cold but idles hi 1300 to 1500 until it reaches 80C in park then maybe 800 to 1000 in drive its 650 ish could that be the accumulatortoo or just the warm/hot start problem ? Thanks Have to find it & clamp it. Would be nice to fix that 
__________________
~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-25-2007 at 05:15 PM.
|
|
#5
09-25-2007, 05:56 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
A broken vacuum fitting certainly won't help your starting or running. I have no idea what connecting in that top fitting would do, except maybe to increase control pressure, which would lean the mixture in high vacuum situations, like coasting. Where does it connect to the vacuum system?
Another thing to check is to put your Mityvac on all the fittings of the WUR. They should hold vacuum briefly and then slowly lose it. If it's a dead leak, then you need to fix it because not only do you have a vacuum loss, you're not getting any enrichment when you need it.
__________________
Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
|
|
#6
09-25-2007, 10:09 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Took the aircleaner off
stiill didn't have access to my vac hoses behind the warm up regulator I'm very short I couldn't see behind it & the dist wires were also blocking but there are at least 5 or 6 back there one off the back of the WUR then 4 somehow coming out of something else So maybe this engine is set up different;y I took pics to help identify I did find a hose not attached bad broken end I cut to expose a good hose & attached it It was a plastic cann9ister valve connected to a quad in fron that went onto a stem ouut of the manifold...I think It couldn't have gone anywhere else & why put a elbow hose on soemthing if it wasn't supposed to go somewhere.. put it back together Started fine Think it did run smoother & started with lower idle 1200 then crept up then down to about 900 Ignition wire boots on distrib cap are shot I was going to move them to get to the vac hoses better but saw a break on top I was afraid if I moved those something might crack so I'm thinking its beyond me. I did not see anything that resembles an acumulator a 82 might not have it I'll post some pics later maybe someone can figure the setup/// Thanks
__________________
~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K
|
|
#7
09-26-2007, 12:42 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
weird 82/83 500 euro sec
pic
green/yellow valve was disonnectedc I connected it after cuttin goff broken end I wanted to change those vac hoses behing wur there is one I can't get oo it then there is another 4 or 5 behind a old brittle ing wires I don't want to move So, don't knoe where to start first but think car runs better w the new vac hose on top wur & connecting the disconnecter is the acumlator here? I didn't see anything that looks like it unser the air assembly Is the idle control vavle or acululator in these photos? Thanks
__________________
~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-26-2007 at 01:29 AM.
|
|
#8
10-17-2007, 02:48 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
My car is a 5/82 Euro Ok...After a long study of the WUR traced most of it The top vac hose goes to a vent off of a rubber hose that connects the air idle control valve into the intake. Mine is not the electric ICV Its a bosch upright air idle control valve Front of reg vac tubing is red but can't trace it Back of WUR is a vac hose that goes into the top of a T vac hose which connects to one vent of a Thermo vac valve switch the other t arm goes to the back of the intake next to the fuel distrib area. Sharing that TVV is another vac hose that connects to the 4 way vac hose in the front. That 4 arm hose also goes to a air inject valve before going into the intake Also connects to distibutor valve & a red line I can't trace... It has bee suspected somewhere in this line is the EGR??? Anyway car runs flawlessly Starts like a dream when stome cold I have started it 2 times ok when warm if I restart with 5 minutes. Still having a bad warm/hot sa=tart after the car is driven You can leave the car and hour or 2 hours & when you try to restart its crank city Yesterday one restart took 2 long cranks The other was lots of cranking many times until finally I sat a while Then it started a died a time or two before it finally got running... The car did sit for 4 years & I have only driven it say 125 miles so far but this is the only problem I have with it... Will asks mechanic tomoorow Its going in for plugs & to replace the broken Tvv which is bypassed Still car runs fine even better but that warm/hot start is still the same or maybe even worse since the tvv broke but I don't think thats the cause of it. Closet I have come to understanding this is after the car has been run when its shut there is a slight residual fuel leakage it pools & creates a sort of flooded situation... Now thats fuel injectors old as they are & $$$$ so trying to see what I can do to minimize this & live with it... Hoping maybe its even something else.
__________________
~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K
|
|
#9
10-28-2007, 10:29 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Accumulator helped warm start
On advise of mechanic got a new fuel accumulator.
Was a $100 part so it was worth a shot Does help the warm/hot starts but they still on not instantaneous like a cold start & do need a lil gas Least there is much less cranking involved so its alot better. Thing is I also had new plugs & wires & thermo vac switch installed at same time so maybe those could have made for better warm/hot starts too. Anywayits starting much better on hot/warm starts so thats a good thing... Found this site http://www.k-jet.org/articles_dbkjet.html#34 Difficulty starting engine only when warm 1) Cold start injector stuck open or leaking: basically, this test is the same as the test above for the cold start injector, but you must have the engine warm before you test it. If the cold start injector fires when the engine is at normal operating temperature, then you've got a problem. You can do the test for 12 volts across the injector plug to see if it's the injector or the thermal time switch causing the problem. 2) Control pressure too high or too low: If you are blasting unburnt fuel (black smoke) out of your tail pipe, then your control pressure regulator is giving too low of a control pressure when the engine is warm and needs to be cleaned or replaced as described above. If the control pressure is too high (less likely) then the fuel mixture will be too lean (too much air, not enough fuel). 3) Regular fuel injectors leaking: Again, this would probably be signified by unburnt fuel coming out of your tailpipe. If the injectors leak, then a bunch of gas flows into the combustion chamber when the car is sitting. After the car has been warmed up and has been running, turn off the car and pull out your fuel injectors and see if any are leaking. Be careful, the engine is hot of course. If they leak more than one drop every 15 seconds, they should be replaced. If all of the injectors are leaking by about the same amount, the rest pressure is probably too high, so see below. 4) Wrong rest pressure: The rest pressure is the pressure that the fuel system stays at when the car is not running. If it is too high (pretty unlikely), fuel will be leaking out of all four injectors. If it is too low, the car will have a hard time starting because there is not enough pressure at the injectors, but may eventually start. The rest pressure can be adjusted by adjusting the line pressure regulator, which is a component of the fuel distributor. As I said before, I am not going to cover the line pressure regulator in detail because you need a fuel pressure gauge to really do it right.
__________________
~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-30-2007 at 03:14 AM.
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
