1987 300E key stuck in ignition
 

Hey,

I have two keys to my 1987 Mercedes 300E, one can only be used for locking / unlocking the doors and the other one can be used for the ignition and the doors. This morning I put the wrong key in the ignition and turned it and now my key is stuck in the on position, the car is not on but it is on the position where the battery is on. I disconnected the battery because the key wont turn backwards for me to get it out, does someone know what i can do to get this key out?

any help is greatly appreciated...thanks- mark

Mark,
You dont want to know what you will likely have to do to get the key out...
Yep, not fun. Do a search on the forum for "ignition cylinder" or something similar. You will get lots of info on how the pull the cylinder and get the key out. Sometimes you get lucky and can do it with a simple wire tool. SOmetimes you have to cut the old lcok cylinder out, not cool. If I remember correctly, if the cylinder will go to the first position, you can use the wire tool to place into the two small holes in the key cylinder and the cylinder will come out. Do a search on this forum for the instructions, if that is the case, it will be an easy fix for you.

Yep, I think you got lucky. If the key is jambed in position 1, that is where the key needs to be to remove the cylinder. Usually the problem is the key will go in but the cylinder will not go to position 1 or 2. If you are stuck in Position 1 than all you need to do is make the wire tool to release the spring clip inside to allow the cylinder to come out. You've got to have the key in pos 1. Then slide the coat hanger tool in (FAR!) to unlock the black cover ring. It can take a while to get it to release, you should be able to get the feel of it once you get the tool made and try it a few times. Coat hanger must be shaved at ends to point (point facing away from centerline, 70 deg angle). Good luck. OH, I would NOT reuse the cylinder even if you get the key out. GO order a new cylinder from your MB dealer, porbably about $120 total, but you get a new key with it and it will work in all your key openings. They can cut the new cylinder and key by using the car's VIN.

I haven't pulled mine yet...but i got the the key and cylinder for 84 dollars from my dealer...

i have the part...just need to find the time to do the job....

glad to hear the cylinder is less than I thought, i need to get one in my 16v, the key is just starting to catch and stick once in a while and I DO NOT want it to lock up on me. $84 is much better insurance than having it go bad and have to force it out. Not fun

Make sure you ask the dealer for the MBCA discount.... My ignition had a 100 list price...and they discounted it 20%

I was also pleasantly surprised that it came with a key.

Hey- thanks for all the help. I still cant get the key out its broken off in the ignition now...I ordered a new cylinder with keys, is there an easier way to get the cylinder out without removing the dashboard? the key is broken off in position 2, but the outside part moves to position one so i can get they key in...which does not help me much when the key is stuck in position 2.

anything i can do?

hmmm, pray?
And get a dremmel tool, several cut off wheels, a pair of saftey glasses, a couple beers and a long weekend. Sorry, no better advice, I think you are going to end up cutting the pieces out with it broken off.

Just had mine repaired....believe me ...was no fun...
try using the MBZ tool as describle in this froum...good luck!

Last ditch effort..
 

Ok, the tumbler is stuck in #2, but the front most part of where the key enters turns easily to allow the tool in. I used a 2mm spoke - great idea.

The tool goes in nearly 2 inches, but my hunch is that the majority of the tumbler still in position 2 is keeping the locking mechanism locked. If I could just get an eyeball on setup for 10 seconds, I could see if my hours of wiggling & giggling is helping.

The tumbler and hardened case should pull right straight out, correct?

If someone confirms that the whole tumbler has to be in position #1, even though the tool goes in all the way, then is there a way to drill out the tumbler?

Thanks again.. I will soon be a w124 tumber / lock cylinder thanks to your help. Mark

on my W126 it pulls straight out...

bascially there are two locking detents that pulls inwards when the tools is ramed fully home...thus releasing the tumbler and hardend shroud both at the same time.

best of luck to u!

Still No Go on w124 1987 300E Tumbler Removal
 

I have purchased a new tumbler & can now see the dentens (the new one has 2 holes, but only one denten), but the old one just won't budge.

I can't imagine how the hardened cap around the tumbler is held in, thus how releasing the tumbler releases the cap.

I now know the length at which point the tool reaches the denten(s) 1.25". Without seeing the tumbler, I figured 1.75", but this is well beyond the point & the resistence that I'm seeing here must be at the switch.

Once the tumbler / cap is out, does the tumbler turn out 90 degrees or something like that.

I just hate to think the pricey locksmith is going to be charging me for the same struggles that I've faced.

Ideas?

Thanks again - Mark

The wire diameter of your tool is also important..(no I'm not going there:D). Too big and it won't insert all the way. Too small and it won't release the detent enough. I just went through this with a 95 W124 2 hours from home. Standard clothes hanger is to big, but the cheap white painted ones from the cleaners are just right. Also an electrical staple won't work, nor will a large paper clip. Its also important to file the ends of the tool with the proper slash point so that it can get behind the detent. Good Luck!

Just like that?
 

Thanks Hanno,

I have something about as tight as I can get.

So, just work it in past the resistance, and pull on the key, and the tumbler and hardened black collar just come right off?

Stunning - I'm back at it now.....

Oh, and I'm the handy sort..

Removing Core
 

The end of the wire has to be filed to a sharp taper so it wedges the detent to the side as it is inserted. I made a tool using a coat hanger bent into a "U" shape with the two ends filed to a point. I think the wires had to be about 4" long to straddle the key, but in your case there is no key so they can probably be shorter.

Once you insert the tool, you need to pull outward with the key to withdraw the cylinder. You might have a problem with that since the key is broken off.

I just had a similar experience: By error I inserted the key for my W113 car. It went in smooth, but didn't turn. That's when I noticed I had used the wrong key. I couldn't pull it out. It was stuck. MB road service offered to come but cautioned me that they would most likely break the key off, using pliers. I made a tool: Looks like a slim jim: It's a blade made from .3mm thick sheet metal and 7.8mm wide. It was narrow enough to slip in besides the key on the left side. I made another one, same dimensions, for the right side. That one I cut a sliver out in the middle, longitudenally, about 1.2mm wide, to clear the ridge in the lock. When both are inserted, they lift the tumblers and I could pull my key out very easily.

This is getting good
 

Just finished with the auto locksmith from the most established firm in the area. After asking me questions that revealed that he had never worked with this style, he retrieved a hammer & screwdriver from his van. He explained in detail how his "contact" was very familiar with this unit & that the cap had to be unscrewed. I told him this was what you do for the 1-hole c-class, so he suggested "drilling it out". I sent him home, explaining to him that should he bill me hourly, his actions might only enlarge my troubles.

Ok, today, I'm going to the bike shop to get every diameter spoke until I find one tight. I will grind down a 70 degree angle on each of the two ends.

But help me here - How in the world does the cap release by pressing in the detends. I can't envision a means by which this large hardened cap can be released by releasing the the tumbler - BECAUSE the cap is over the tumbler. Once I purchased a tumbler, I became baffled at the thought that....

How can the tumbler's release remove this hardened collar, when the tumbler is inside the collar? If I can envision this, I'll feel much more confident in giving the extra effort.

My best guess is that the collar turns 90 degrees to lock on to the tumbler before inserting the set... but I don't see any such cutout on the tumbler.

Thanks again!

Oh, John - I can pull on the tumbler by turning a screw tight into where the key slot.

To the engineer - all that I have read about this subject, I'm shocked that you were able to do such a thing. My key broke off, so I don't have this option. Sounds like the sander / jigsaw vibration applied to the key might have worked for you also.

Don't worry about the collar, it comes out with the tumbler. Also the right size wire diameter is not the size that will fit in the outer holes. it necks down somewhat inside when it gets into the grooves of the tumbler.

The collar is wider down below; the tumbler fits inside the lock body then the collar covers both. it is free to spin. With proper tool this is less than 5 min job, including drinking your coffee. unsure of which position the lock has to be in, mine works one detent ccw from the run position. Its the one where the radio wil still play. Good call to fire the "locksmith". Most of the chassis shop manuals will have a sketch of the factory tool, with dimensions.

Free to spin?
 

Thanks for the quick reply..

You say the collar is free to spin. My collar moves freely very slightly - 1 mm maybe. Spin it does not. It is locked from spinning. As I attempt to turn it right & left, it gives a very solid metalic "i'm not supposed to spin" sound as it stops from it's very slight 1 degree spin.

Do tell, what keeps this collar on? if it goes over the tumbler, yet the tumbler needs to be released for it to come off, I think I'm missing something significant here. Like my socks holding my shoes on?

I think I'm seeing force in my near future here. Not good. Do tell?

Mark: Keep in mind that the key for my W113 is a double-cut key, i.e. it is cut symmetrical on both sides and it is 1.9 mm thick. When I stuck it in, the lock grabbed it. It's supposed to do that, so that you can't remove the key in any position except the "0" position. The key for my W124 is 2.9mm thick with a ridge all the way down on both sides. It is also double-cut. The difference in thickness gave me one mm to work with. Now that you have broken your key off, the key slot is filled. I'll try today to remove my lock cylinder and tell you what I'm going to run into.

Mark: I just removed the lock: Made two tools from a white coat hanger. It's exactly 2mm diameter and filed a taper on the end. The taper is just an angle like, maybe 60 degrees, so that it can push something out-of-the-way. On the other end I bent a loop in the direction of the taper so that I would know which way the taper faced. With my key turned to the accessory position "1" I stuck both wires in the two holes until they bottomed out. I could feel them pushing things out of the way. They went in like an inch and one half. The entire lock came out with the plastic face plate attached. The lock cylinder is surrounded by a strong metal case. The black ring you see from the outside is part of that case. The case is necked down and can be removed only after you pull the lock cylinder out. It appears that, if you can insert the wires, you will release the cylinder. To pull it out, takes maybe 2 lbs of pull. easy to do, if the key still has a head.
I can send you some pics, if you give me your e-mail address. Don't use force yet!

My black cap / collar comes up and around the tumbler exposing only the chrome key entry of the tumbler, while the larger portion of the tumbler cannot fit through the black cap.

Maybe you mean that the collar separates from the tumbler off once both have been removed.

Thanks so much of the offer of the photos! email sent private, Mark

Do you see the small black clip on the lock? This is what must be depressed. There is just
one. So I didn't need two wires. The one is at about 11 o'clock. The black (hardened?)
cover slips in & out when the key is at the "1" position, but you must remove
the escutcheon cover first. It just pops out. It's plastic and has two hooks on the right
side and one on the left. It's covered on the left by the steering column cover.
The hardened collar slid in without any resistance with the key slot at the
"1" position. I inserted the lock cylinder first, then the collar then the
escutcheon plate. I must not have had the key in the lock because the collar will not fit
over the key. It went together very fast. In the "1" position the opening for
the wire tool is about at 2 o'clock. I'd try to achieve that position and try to insert
the wire tool. It has to go in about 1 and 1/4 inch. At about one inch you should feel a
resistance. That's the tab you have to depress to remove the lock cylinder. When the tab
is depressed, the cylinder should come out. Can you reach into the key opening with a snap
ring pliers? (That type of tool opens the jaws when you squeeze the handle). Leave the
wire tool in place when you pull.

My bad dreams are just like this.

COLLAR is the subject. My parts are similar but I think you can slide your tumbler through the opening of your collar.

My hardened collar holds my tumbler in. I know the clip(s) are pressed in, but the collar holds the tumbler in.

I know the collar holds in the tumbler, so when I'm told that the clip(s) will release the collar, then something is wrong. How can they each hold each other in?

Anyone?

Ken: Normally, when you are in "1" position the key is inserted. Now you insert the wire tool and that releases the lock because your wire tool depresses the latch. Now the lock comes out when you pull on the key. It comes out together with the collar. For the purpose of this exercise the escutchion plate has been removed. If the escutchion plate has not been removed it will come out too because it sits around the small diameter of the collar. Yes, I know, you don't have a key handle. What you have now in your hand is the lock and the collar. The collar is still around the lock. But because you can manipulate the lock, like turn it, you can remove the collar by pulling it off. You have to pull the key first, because the collar opening is smaller than the handle of the key. Now you have the naked lock in your hand. It looks to me, that it may not be a repairable part, but I did not take it apart. To assemble the stuff: Remember, the lock is still in the "1" position: You insert the lock cylinder into the location in the dash: There is a 1/4 inch keyway that indexes the lock cylinder. The key is not in the lock at this time. Then you insert the collar. Then you install the escutchion plate. Everything is in place now, the lock is still in the "1" position. Now you can insert the key and it works. That's how I remember it. I hope, I remember right.:(

Thanks much - I do have the plastic decoration panel off and the knee pad so that I have a good grip on the hardened collar. After much research, I have come to know one thing and have hunched another:

Realization: There are detends on each side beyond the one clip (near the base of the collar) that actually release the hardened cap. Important: The 300e is different than all others. Since finding this out (I would love a photo of it) and before finding this out, I have worked aggressively with the identical tool called for - with no help.

Hunch: Much of the tumbler is still between #1 & #2 position, so though I can get my tool in, because the forward portion of the tumbler is broken from the rest, I'm wondering if my cylinder and cap will not release because the switch housing for the tumbler is somehow keeping everything in place until I get the balance of the tumbler to completely to pos #1.

This is all specific to the w124 (my 300e).

I did eventually find a post where someone had the same struggles as I did, and it was the detends beyond the clip that were stuck.. I've worked too hard at this to think that is what I have - anyone with 1st hand experience able to prove my hunch right?

Thank again & again.

Ken (mark's dad)

A link to the 300e w124 collar issue
 

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/158328-300e-ignition-cylinder-tumbler-replacement-help-2.html

Interesting?

Ideas about my hunch, is the ignition switch holding the tumbler in because I can't get the key 100% to position #1? But the tool goes in fine because the forward part of the tumbler with the holes spins freely.

?? Who is my hero? Ken / Mark

Ken, Just replaced mine this evening. I know the cylinder was at position 1 during removal last week because the wire tool went in fine and both tumbler and collar came right out. I don't know if position 1 was indicated on the collar while doing this because when it went back together the collar indicators are not aligned. It is however, in there the only way it would fit. I would check your position 1 by having the key in the run position, then CCW back one detent to where the radio stays on but ignition is off. This will be position 1 irregardless of what the marks on the collar say. I am of course assuming that you can actually turn the whole tumbler to the proper position and not just the front slot where the key fits. My front piece had broken off from the rest of the tumbler. As stated before, the tumbler and collar release together when proper shape/orientation (slash point) and diameter tool is inserted while the assembly is at position 1. I found putting it back took more time than removal.

Thanks Hanno - Ahh, so the front portion of your tumbler was separated also.

The big question for me then, are you certain that the rest of the tumbler needs to be in the #1 position? I can't get mine there, but the tool goes in fine.

Also, not sure if you have the exact same setup as my w124 300e, but I just heard back from someone that there are 2 holes that the tool has to go through after the first clip to release the detends for the removal of the collar.

Thanks Hanno for this - Ken / Mark

best to have your cylinder change, cause if a wrong key can turn the ignition switch, the ignition switch cylinder is now defective and can no longer provide the purpose it was made for.

God Has Spoken Re: w124 1987 300E Lock Cylinder Tumbler
 

I don't know what is more important - to clarify what wrong information has presented, or what new information needs to be presented.

First: the 300E w124 is different than the others.

Buy a 1.5 - 2.0mm bike spoke. Bend in a square u about 4 inches long & with to be exactly the width of the 2 holes. File ends down to 60 degrees with angled faces facing each other - now taper the tips of the angled faces down a bit so that they fit in the little holes that we will be targeting. See, even filing the ends to a pin point at 60 degrees all the way around would be ideal because all we care about is hitting the small 2 holes at the very base of the collar that will pull in the two detents that are, presently pushing into the groove inside the collar. This tool will slide either above or below the 2 o'clock positioned tumbler clip about 3/4 inch in. We don't care about that because we want the collar out & the tumbler is easily removed after the collar. So, this very straight tool with pointed ends will slide down all the way (as deep as the collar), into the small holes & force inward the upper an lower detents that are presently engaged in the groove of the collar.

First, take 3 minutes to remove the plastic covering from the lock, pry with screwdriver from the left side near steering wheel, and the left cover by pulling off headlight switch & unscrewing large screw with electrician pliers, then 3 phillip head screws under parking break release, then 5 up & 2 under 5/15" hex nuts for lower knee kick area. 3 mins on & 3 minutes off. Do it.

You might get by with just the key plastic cover only if somehow your tool hits it right off. Nah, just do it.

First, if you have been on this for a while, sit back read & be dismayed...

No, the collar does not unscrew. No, 14g house wire or a paper clip will not help you, AND no, you don't worry worry about taking the tumbler and cylinder out as a set. How about this: NO, the little black clip on the tumbler is not your objective, and needs to have nothing to do with the removal. OK, lets go here: NO, NO, NO, don't even begin listening to the idea of pulling on the key for removing the tumbler and collar. You know what? YOU DO NEED the tool for both holes.

** The trick here is getting the collar off, and the tumbler (thus clip) has NOTHING to do with the collar's removel. This comes after - sure, they can come off together, but anyone reading this is struggling, so separate the issues!

8 hours on line, and 4 struggling with the car & how I wish I knew the aforementioned truths. Why all the false info? People have assumed that their Lock Cylinder is the same. WRONG.

OK, this is what I needed to know:

1. The tumbler slides into the switch housing, while the harded black collar covers the switch housing. The collar has a plastic coating, making it seem plastic, until hours of tugging & grabbing scratches the plastic off.

2. The collar is empty inside other than a groove lathed into the bottom (furthest from the key entry) end of it and a notch at the 9 o'clock position only to keep the position 1, 2, etc markings in place.

3. The tumbler can be taken out even if you don't depress the flimsy spring metal. THE FLIMSY SPRING METAL HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE COLLAR REMOVAL.

4. SIMPLY: The job involves getting the hardened black collar off. Once off, then the tumbler unit will slide out when reinserting the tool, or pry out if the spring metal clip is (as was mine) is damaged.

Ok, for this lock, the black clip (only on the 2 o'clock position on the tumbler) is only to keep the tumbler from moving around or rattling.

SUMMARY & additional pointers.

This tool needs to be perfectly straight & exactly the same distance from each other as are the two holes while key / tumbler is in position one (can't get position one? read below) so that the prongs of this forked tool enter the holes while they are parallel to each other. First spray WD-40 in the holes with the red tube inserted all the way, then back out 1/8 inch. Do this for each & spray liberally (put towel under to catch the run off). This is not an optional step. As this tool slides in, the top prong will give a nudge near at the 3/4 mark as it passes above or below the tumbler clip. Another 3/4 inch past this, each prong of this forked tool will now, with light wiggling enter into the two detents holes. light wiggling of the collar while doing this will help the release of the detents that are pressing into grove.

All along, I knew it would help to have the collar able to spin. this is done by taking a thin small screw driver & chisling out the notch.. a very small notch - see red arrow.

Ok, this is going to cause some concern for those most versed (who had there chance to give photos & details) but here it goes: The shiney key entrance portion of the tumbler only needs to be in the #1 position for the holes to line up with the ignition switch portion into which the tumbler sits. STUCK KEY? BROKEN KEY? OR JUST CAN'T GET THE IGNITION TO MOVE to position #1? Well, why not just put a big screw driver in the key slot entry & force this front portion of the tumbler to turn (wrench on square shaft of screw driver) to where you want it. It will break from the rest of the tumbler, but heck, you are replacing it anyway with the ebay supplied tumbler ($50) anyway. I was shocked to discover that only the front portion of the tumbler needed to line up with the holes & that mercedes didn't figure this as they put so much effort into their megaGodzilla metal into the collar. I asked and asked this quiestion, and felt a bit stupid in doing so, because I assumed it too easy a way out of this - just force it & snap the front key entry from the rest of the tumbler.. how good is this?

So, after hours of research & drilling & wiggling & figuring, I prayed a new prayer in church, came home & simply inserted the tool again (after more WD-40) wiggled while wiggling (turning) right to left with my plumbers pliers on the collar & suddenly the collar started to turn (the notch had worn down some & one of the detents let loose, I turned further.. with my heart racing in anticipation of my son no longer bugging me to use my car, and low and behold, with a good grip, & a flat head screw driver behind the collar, at the base, it let loose.

I needed to know that there is nothing inside the collar, and that there was a groove in the end. I needed to know that there is no connection between the removal of the tumbler and the hardened collar. I needed to know that only the key entry portion of the tumbler needed to be in position one to get the tool to the end of the collar. I needed to know that my objective was to get the collar off and it would take a pair of pliers wiggling on it while in and out with my spoke - tool to get free it up & that it would still take some light prying to wiggle the collar for the first 3/8 inch. I needed to know that Jesus would be there every step of the way & that I would grow from this & that others would benefit as well.

** Please do not assume your model mercedes is like this - My guess is that the design of the collar is the tell-all, hence the reason for the good photos.

Now you know this, and with this, you can reach satisfaction or failure with much less frustration. Thanks to all who encouraged me to "carry on".

Oh, putting it back on. Put tumbler in collar. Put in key & put to position 1, Slide the tool over the black tumbler clip, then place the assembly into the ignition switch with one hand while depressing the rounded detents in all the way with your fingers, line up the collar notch-out with the ignition switch notch & press into place. Instead, you can press the tool in all the way & try to catch the detents with it, but you are begging for trouble, the detents do fall out & probably will - but they go righ back in. You'll know how to line up the tumbler because the groove in the ignition swich tumbler socket is obviousely placed.

I'm stoked.

the switch on the 420 does not have 2 holes for the U shaped tool . It only has one hole . Please respond open for suggestions. Victross

Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement; mixed diesel/gas
 

ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Diesel Discussion
Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement; mixed diesel/gas
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/142232-ignition-cylinder-tumbler-replacement%3B-mixed-diesel-gas.html#post1065596

Everything he said - but stress the bevel on the end of the tool. There is no force required once the tool slides under the dogs. Just keep jiggleing the tool once you think your home. When you slide under the dogs the cover will be free with no force. If you pound on the tool you may damage or mash what you're trying to slide under.
So here's where I'm at - and only thanks to Mark- locks out and the little dog and spring at 7:00 are gone. I heard them tinkle, but can't find them. Also note in Mark's picture that they are missing. This may explain why some people have had success with just the top hole - It's been replaced once already - and the top keeper ring seems to release much easier. I'm not so sure the 7:00 dog is necessary anyway. The cover will hold tight enough, but the dog may help hold the lock? Anyway when the new lock arrives I'm going without it.
The WD may be OK, but it should not be all that cruddy in there. Just remember, pounding in frustration is not gonna help - just be patient and jiggle the sharpened coat hanger or what ever.

You really
 

need the proper tool.Paper clips don't hack it.$3.50 delivered
if it does not get into the detents you will never remove the tumbler.
ohlord

Thanks!
 

Thanks for this write up - I was having major troubles getting my tumbler out. But I got it out 5 minutes after reading your write up. I had already started removing the whole stem before I read this.

Screwdriver to turn tumbler
 

Has anyone done this with success? I have a 93 300ce

bump!

I have a 91 190E with a stuck ignition tumbler. Can't turn to position 1.

Tried again with the valet key, and after much jiggling finally managed to turn the ignition lock to position 1 :D

Took less than 10 seconds to remove the tumbler and cover - using prongs made from an old bicyle spoke.

The problem on my tumbler is sticking pins. Will order a new one tomorrow!

Cheers!

Mark2590 is the man
 

Hey Mark2590 I did just about all you mentioned. Made a couple of the tools, got the collar pretty loose but could not get it all the way out. After reading your posting again I noticed that I missed the part about removing a notch and it says see red arrow. Could you please tell me where this notch is. I don't see a red arrow on the picture. I'm sure soon as I remove that notch it will come right out.

Hi. Well I have tried to remove the collar following the above steps.
However, I think I may be misisng something. I have a 1985 300E.
I have configured my bike spoke to fit into the 2 holes opposite each other that are on the outside of the ignition lock - but inside of the collar.
What I can't seem to do is to get the wire right into the end. This leads me to think that I have not positioned my key switch to position 1. (I had to use the screwdriver and crank it to position 1 as my keys were lost - long story).
Can someone confirm that key position 1 is the first groove on the collar (which sits around 11 o'clock)?
I used the red pipe from the can of WD-40 to see if i could feel for the holes being aligned but it wouldn't go in all the way either.
From reading forums there is mixed success on getting the thing to go in easily or having to work at it. Mine is the latter...assuming i have aligned it to position1 correctly in the first place.
So while I do this insertion, should I be trying to twist the collar off at the same time?
Please help....

Yes, first groove is position1.

My collar only came off after I cleaned up the angled end of the spoke so it was sharp and the correct angle. The tab that releases the collar is pretty tetchy.

How deep to go.
 

If I get the tool shaved at the correct angle and aligned correctly, how far down should I go down the shaft?

it goes all the way down the length of the collar. I just remembered though that I'm talking about a W124 car I did it on. Perhaps the W123 is different?

IF your key is stuck in ANY position except the correct one.
 

'Small hand sander

(or Vibrator
[ask the S.O.,You will be Amazed what's in her tool box.
'Nothing over 5 Amps A.C.] )

'Applied to the offending Key (Or maybe even the cover...Just be CAREFUL with
the Wood!)

One member here clamped the key head into the "Clamp" portion of a Hand Sander and managed to turn the Key and get the "Bad" tumbler out.

Tool
 

The tool for removing the cylinder needs to have a bevel on it. I used a piece of metal coat hanger and filed a nice long bevel. A bike spoke might be too hard to file, but a grinder would probably work.

When you insert the tool, the straight side (without bevel) should be flat against the cylinder and the beveled side away from it, that way the point can get behind the retainer clip and open it up. If you don't have the correct bevel, you won't be able to insert the tool past the clip.

really, that's a chronic problem then eh? On our 1990 300TE the damn original key stopped working for apparently no reason, doors, hatch and ignition, just stopped working. Went and got a new key from the dealer (took a week) and it's fine. I have looked at the original key (doesn't work) and the new key (works fine) and I swear, I cannot see the difference. The cool thing was the dealership was doing inventory or something and somehow felt we had paid for the new key, when in fact, we hadn't. Gotta be honest, we didn't say **** and walked out....I can still compare the non-working key to the working key and I cannot see any visible difference...I swear, I can't.....

I think I am fighting a losing battle.
My son and his friend had lost my key so I went to the dealership and they cut me an original.
Tried the original and it didn't work. Probably due to wear and tear of the tumbler. Anyway, I never tried the sander method and bit the bullet and used a screw driver to snap the tumbler (to what I think is in position 1 now).
So now I cannot go back. I will try filing a longer point on the bike spokes and have them positioned facing away from the tumbler and towards the collar.
Not an easy fit which makes me think that I have not aligned the tumbler correctly to position 1. I used a paper clip as it is smaller just to see how deep I could go and then when I did go as far as I could, didn't 'feel' any thing moveable.
Also, while I am pressing down along the sides of the tumbler, should I be doing something to the collar? Turning it, prising it away from the shaft?

update
 

I decided to separate the tool I had made into 2. This way I can work at least one hole at a time.
I 'think' I am getting through to the end but I have seen postings saying that i need to go down to the end of the collar. I am getting down to about 3/4 inch. Or is this where the latch is and hence why i can't get any further?
What I have also noticed is that if I place one one the tools into 1 hole, I cannot fit the other tool in the other hole..
I use a paper clip on the second hole just to make sure I am lined up correctly, and the paper clip goes in as far as the other tool in the first hole. So I know that I am aligned.
I made my tool from a bike spoke, shaved it into a nice angle, even shaved a bit off the shaft so it could go into the 2nd hole - but alas it will not.
It seems as though placing the tool in the first hole has caused the tumbler to push against the collar directly opposite - where the other hole is.
I have seen some photos of the tumbler and collar out, but does anyone have any pictures to show me what the latch looks like so I can see what I am dealing with when it comes to trying to dislodge it.
Finally, could I use a hacksaw and cut my way through the collar (half way up) so then i could get a better picture of what i am looking at.
I feel that even after WD-40 it may be that the latches are just stuck (after 20+ years)??

still at it....
 

Been doing some more reading and wiggling....
If I put one of the tools into the hole, it seems to tighten the tumbler inside the collar - because i then cannot get the other tool into the other hole. I am only able to get a safety pin into the second hole.
Has anyone had this before?
Also, because I had to pry the key hole to position 1 with a screwdriver, I am now able to freely rotate the front part of the keyhole. If i look into the barrel, it doesn't move. So if I did have the key and moved it to pos 1, the whole tumbler would rotate - not just the front part.
I am starting to think that snapping the front part of the key hole and aligning to position 1 has been a redherring and because the whole tumbler is not in position 1, the latches will never dislodge.
Can someone confirm or deny this.?
Thanks all for your comments as well.