Car has sat used only 300 miles in 4 years.

I've drove it about 60 miles back and forth to the shop trying to fix a engine that heated to 120 & once to red.

Thermo was determined to stick so was changed

Then it still ran up to 120

Temp sendier was switched
Still 120

Then new radiator
thats brough temp to 95/100 range...

So now no danger there

Car starts up right away cold or warm
Car has trouble starting hot
lots of cranking & had to use accelerator
which manual mentions so it might not be so odd.

Problem
When started idle runs 1500
stays high til about 80 C
then comes down to 1000 maybe 800

Drives in 650 range so thats OK.
Does have some slight lumpiness at lights when stopped in drive

If its idle on start could it be wam up regulator
There is a vac hose taped
I am going to change the 3 vac hoses to the warm up regular
Stupid ? are the hoses hooked up to the warm up reg air & not fuel?

Other strange thing is the water temp guage still quivers as it has from day 1 which is why I suspected possible guage problem but mechanic was said he found cool spots in center of radiator
I sae him using a onfared gun so I am assuming the temp guage is reading ok. Still don't know why at times the neede does a quick waiver & temp changes say 5 degrees in matter of seconds????

I have been reading OVR problems can have all sorts of compiication when they are failing.

I have also read to change vacumn hoses
I am trying to locate & find replacements for all I can access

I am no mechanic. so I am trying to understand the possible causes to point the repair in the right direction.

Mt mechanic drove the car & apparently it drives well enough for him & never made mention of the high idle start or slight lummpiness at lights.

I know the car has sat & as he says needs to be drivem
but I am concerned to drive it before I know its not in any danger to the car or myself...

Was just reading early O2 sensors did not fiunction properly til exhaust was in 500C range so they are really not in affect at start up while it doesn't rule it out it would seem if when its warm the idle comes down that the O2 sesor is OK or at least not causing initial problem?


Thanks for any comments...

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Well 'm hoping my mechanic read the temp w the ifared ? temp gun
It was hotter than it is now to my fingers
was too hot to even get my hands under to open truck
not that hot anymore
so it was hot

I mentioned the waivering guage

I'm no mechanic & don't want to mess under air filter things
thats where the fuel injector is?

just trying to get a theroretica scope of it to help start fixing it.

Its hot start & only got to use the car once to do the hot restart & that was just before the battery died which my mechanic fogot to check also.

He is busy...

So it's possible it was a low battery as the battery sat 2 years too
Got new battery then the rains came

Oh well

I do understand fuel injectors can leak in hot situation...
Hoping it was battery but just was thinking maybe it had to do w idle or hot ovr?

Thanks, as I said I;m no mechanic & fuel injector is over my head,

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Temp gauge fluctuation or wavering can be all sorts of things, but usually it is a sign the connections on the actual gauge pod are oxidized or corroded, happens alot what a car sits for a time. ( 2 years)
Can easily be fixed, but you wont like how....pull the cluster, open it up and remove the needles and take off the faces and remove the actual motor that moves the needle. Lots to do to get to the motor not hard, but not easy or for the faint of heart. After it is off the circuit board all you do is clean the contacts wil a wire brush and reinstall. A pegged or maxed out gauge that has good wire harness and sender is a typical candidate for bad or corroded connections. IT grounds itself and that makes it go to the max position. Also a full grounded sender or a bad sender can do the same thing, you said yours is new so it is ok and you said the gauge reads 95 to 100 so the wiring should be fine. the waver comes in when the gauge motor for the needle gets small intermittent contact to the circuit board and it cause the needle to jump or peg at max. i just fixed one that was pegged and all it was was oxidized pin contacts on the needle motor. Cleaned them and reinstalled and it was good.
If you want to test your gauge I can explan how. You will need to go to radio shack or any place you can buy electronic resistors though. One small resistor and a length of wire and you can test the temp gauge to see if it is reading correctly.

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Guess I'll leave that for now
was just thinking it could be intermittent fuse thing or gorund
but if its dirty contacts its reading for the most part.

Also the fuel does a waive sometimes too

Haven't seen it in the oil pressure & they are all clustered.

Oil is pinned 3 on accel & 2 1 1/2 on llights w hot engine which I guessis normal

Today did a warm start 9water temp read about 40C )& it also had a hard time cranked alot & I tried pressing the accelerator but no luck on that so I shut it down

2nd try crank depressed accelerator & she started right up

Got some vacumn hoses
going to try changing out what I can get too see if it helps
can't hurt as they are old & starting to get hard brittle & the taped on is disintergrating

Thanks!!!!!

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

No, haven't been under air assembly yet
I suppose I should be able to get that off

Then I can check other end of vac hoses.

found it

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=26G0RGQ1B26T106297&year=1984&make=MB&model=500-SEC-001&category=E&part=Fuel+Accumulator


Like to find that hose & the accumu in car though see if I can test it

Be great to solve that

Thanks

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

if the fuel gauge does an occassional odd movement also, I would tend to believe that there is come oxidation or breka down at the gauge cluster. The temp and fuel gauge have a lot of circuitry they share on the circuit board and the ground they use is the same. For know that is probably something you will have to live with. It can require opening and dissassembling the cluster to clean up all the connections. Lots of good mechanics know nothing about instrument clusters and they dont want to. they are tempermental and time consuming to work on with no guarantees of sucess. Most will tell you there is nothing that can be done, it is typical, or buy a new or salvage clsuter and try that. Not great options.

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Can live with that
just wanted to know it wasn't symptomatic of say relay
They work so thats all thats important

My only fear would be having a bulb go back there
Don't know how to access dash.

I like to run w parkinglights on for additional visibility
but maybe I have to conserve...

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

I may not have a acumalitor...late 83/ early 83

I didn't see naything like it
I have a warm up regulator


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/tech-help/48105d1190784590-500sec-fuel-system-problem-mbengineintake.jpg

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K