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  #1  
Old 10-19-2007, 04:10 PM
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How to check relays...Should U replace?

Is there a way to check if a relay is functioning?

Whats the idea
should you change relays just becasue a car has almost 200K
would you say that they have served there useful life on a 25 yo car?

My volvo ignit relay went at 125K

I changed the OVR in the benz

have a hard hot/warm start

looking into fuel pump relay
is that the ignition relay?

I have to be carfeul as its a Euro & I have found it takes different relays.

Hoping this wasn;t the case w the OVR I got...
drats

I suppose before we all start changing pumps & injectors
it would be eise to check or replace a relay
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  #2  
Old 10-19-2007, 04:20 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Baton Rouge La
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i keep an a/c, fuel pump, and ovp in the shop... change them if needed.

so far, two ovp's , one on the CE, the other on the 300e....

It was very nice to have a spare in the shop when one went...
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  #3  
Old 10-19-2007, 06:10 PM
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Does say a fuel pump or ignition relay
when it gets hot
relays do get hot

they heat up & cool down
affecting solder joints
creating weak connections

Its possible a hot relay might not start the car or fuel pump as well as a cold one?

I never have a cold start problem
but have the warm/hot start problem

I found the fuel poump relay for $100

just wondering if its worth changing it
whilst not knowing if mine might be fine?

Still the car runs fine
the relay obviously is allowing the pump to work

Its probably ok as it starts cold & I don't have any fuel problems
except starting the hot/warm engine that has sat./...
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How to check relays...Should U replace?-mbfuelrelay.jpg  
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-19-2007 at 07:17 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-20-2007, 01:08 PM
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cdplayer

Another area that causes warm/hot start problems are worn or dirty/plugged injectors and their respective seals. They tend to let the fuel that should be pressurized, to "leak out" when the engine is off.

I replaced everything fuel related from the rear of the car forward. Including two accumulators. Reading several posts here and trying different parts(all new) IMPROVED THINGS A LITTLE. But never really solved my persistant warm start cranking.

Finally a moderator commenting on another's issue suggested actually replacing the injectors. With a second set of seals and a new set of injectors I now have instant starting hot or cold. Well, always had good cold starting.

Good luck
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  #5  
Old 10-20-2007, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdplayer View Post
Another area that causes warm/hot start problems are worn or dirty/plugged injectors and their respective seals. They tend to let the fuel that should be pressurized, to "leak out" when the engine is off.

I replaced everything fuel related from the rear of the car forward. Including two accumulators. Reading several posts here and trying different parts(all new) IMPROVED THINGS A LITTLE. But never really solved my persistant warm start cranking.

Finally a moderator commenting on another's issue suggested actually replacing the injectors. With a second set of seals and a new set of injectors I now have instant starting hot or cold. Well, always had good cold starting.

Good luck
All good points & some $

car was used litle in least 4 years
& I haven't really got to use it much either so I need to get a better handle on it befor eI start changing big $ things which right now can't sfford anyway...

I probably have a wrong ICV now thats air temp operated & not electrovic
so maybe its not helping things...

getting daunting
have to stand back & breathe...

Seems it will start warm/hot ok if you re-start quick
guess that means something?

Thanks..

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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-20-2007 at 07:02 PM.
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