I have a 96 E320... When I turn the key to engage the starter, the starter does nothing. It acts as if the tranny is not in park, but when shifting to the neutral position still nothing.

Any ideas on how to trouble shoot this problem?
Thanks,
Ed in Va.

When that happened on my '01 SLK230, it was the battery. Even if I tried to jump start it the starter would not engage. It happened at the Mall, so I went to Sears and bought a new battery and problem solved.

On my '93 190E, the same symptoms but it turned out to be a bad starter. Replaced starter and problem solved.

On my '82 240D, the neutral safety switch went bad so I used a remote starter button and the engine started. Replaced the neutral safety switch and problem solved.

If it were me, I would try a known good battery first, and if that doesn't work I would try to remotely engage the starter. If still nothing, then I would remove the starter and have it tested.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Thanks Slick...
The Battery is good, I guess the remote starter button would be a good place to start. I'll try that. I wonder if there are any other devices in the circuit other than the neutral switch.

Hope all is well in Tampa, Left Clearwater Beach in 93 for the Blue Ridge Mountains.

After following the X27 thread on this board, I went out and turned a few fuses around the #5 fuse. The vehicle started right afterward, then when I restarted later that evening... once again no contact.

Looks like I need to clean and renew the fuse to the alarm system lockout device.
Ed in Va.

The test for the lock-out relay feed is to use a test lamp on both sides of the fuse to ground. These fuses can easily fool you. Should have power to ground on BOTH sides..

Power chain to starter on this system is... Ign.Sw > NSS > ATA Relay > X27 connector.
That is why I use X27 connector for first test point. That test takes only 30 secs. to perform and you will then know upstream/downstream from that point, which eliminates bat/starter/solinoid possibles right off the bat.

Thanks for your help Arthur Dalton,

Your previous posts have been Most Helpful. I'll take another look at the fuse and x27 in a day or so. Just covered up right now at work.

This white E320 with 100k came from a salt-air environment east coast Florida island. I've had previous problems keeping the A/C circuit working at the fuse box. I will be renewing fuses and plan to coat fuse contacts with a dissimilar metal electrical contact product used by my home electrical contractor.
Ed in Va.

After installing a new battery, the problem was solved.

The old battery seemed to operate just fine. Plenty of cranking power and no obvious indication of a weak battery.

Appearantly this car vintage requires a new battery to operate properly. Maybe the new battery is just overpowering a weak link in the system somewhere, which developes over time.

Ed in Va.

Here's another reason. When my 1995 C280 was new, one day the starter would not operate. I got on the phone to my friend BH who is the Service manager at the other big MB dealer in town. He said, "get out, lock the doors, turn around twice (no mention of ruby slippers), unlock it and get in and it will start.

And so it did.

The fault was the contact in the driver's door lock that provides the starter lockout which is present whether or not the car has the factory alarm. Which mine did not, by choice.

Replacing the part cured the problem.

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Roger E.