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  #16  
Old 11-11-2007, 04:39 PM
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yes check that some time ago ....and rechecked...we are getting spark to the spark plugs ( I replaced with new Bosch plugs)..whether or not it is enough is another issue...I rechecked the mechanical timing by manually putting #1 to top dead , removed the the rocker cover to see that we were on a compression stroke and looked at the placement of distributor rotor and we were dead on #1

my thought was that we are have a Ignition control module issue...I have a line on a siemons out of a 91 190e for about $150 I am about to go there , but first I want to exhaust all other alternatives

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  #17  
Old 11-11-2007, 06:50 PM
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question: how far away does the tdc sensor have to be away from the magnet of the in the from crankshaft pulley?

BACK STORY:I was under the front of the 190e looking for the TDC sensor to see if it was aligned with the rest of the mechanical timing. It was, but I notice that the front sensor was about 1/2 of a inch away from the magnet in the pulley .....it would seem to me that it should be closer ....but crap...you have to pull the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley off just to get to it. One of the previous owners stripped the the water pump pulley star head screws (thanks a-hole) so this is going to be interesting. any thought on this revelation!
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2007, 10:02 PM
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Do you have the four cylinder or 6?
I ran into a bizzare situation similar to yours with a 2.6 where everything tested out fine but....... the #1 cylinder was firing on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke, exactly one revolution off. The adaptor the rotor is screwed to was split at the back side and it slipped then caught the next time the groove came around so lining everything up looked fine on the crank marks......... We actuallly found it by accident.........finally. Pull #1 plug, rotate the engine by hand and bring the piston to TDC on the compression stroke.....then check to see if the rotor is pointed to #1 wire.
The spark should jump at least a 1/2 inch of air gap and "snap" pretty noticibly. It won't necessarily be blue because of the multiple discharge system used.
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  #19  
Old 11-12-2007, 05:39 PM
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its a 4cylinder
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  #20  
Old 11-12-2007, 06:42 PM
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I go back to basics, pull number 1 and turn engine till it's TDC compression stroke you or helper can put finger in hole to check for compression. Then remove distributor cap and make sure rotor is pointing to number 1 wire. If not either rotate wires or re install distributor so rotor points to 1.
That corrects timing, you have spark, fuel, and compression check throttle valve linkage verify throttle opens. It has to run the laws of physics say so, it's an engine.
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  #21  
Old 11-12-2007, 11:13 PM
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Like I suggested in your last thread, please stick to one thread so there can be continuity in diganosing your problem.
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  #22  
Old 11-13-2007, 12:43 AM
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If you have good spark,fuel,and comppression, just for fun see if your breather hose has come disconnected from the bottom of your intake as they often do on the 2.3s
Paul
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  #23  
Old 11-13-2007, 07:40 AM
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I havn't seen where anyone has mentioned 'Exhaust'. It is just as important as fuel, spark and air. The converters can break up inside and completely stop up the exhaust. I would suggest you disconnect the exhaust at the engine, try to start, and see what happens.
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  #24  
Old 11-15-2007, 08:21 PM
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all ready tried that , thats what has me puzzled , it seemed to fire hard. with a intense snap....yet no combustion
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  #25  
Old 11-16-2007, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
If you have good spark,fuel,and comppression, just for fun see if your breather hose has come disconnected from the bottom of your intake as they often do on the 2.3s
Paul
I agree...if the hose is disconnected on the bottom of the Idle Control Valve or at the bottom of the intake, the engine will not start.
Hate to use this expression, but, Been There, Done That.

1. You have spark.
2. You checked spark plug wires firing order.
3. You checked timing.
4. Are the spark plugs wet with fuel?
5. Is the vacuum hose in good shape and connected at the top of the Idle Control Valve going to the intake connection?
6. Did you remove the Idle Control Valve to make sure it is clean and slightly open when it is not operated?
7. Did you remove the air cleaner and slightly push down on the air flow plate while someone is turning the engine over?
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  #26  
Old 11-17-2007, 05:38 PM
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yes to all your questions ...........I recheck the boot ...I about to recheck all the mechanical timing elements and try again...let you know how we fair
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  #27  
Old 11-18-2007, 12:08 AM
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check the boot between the air sensor plate and the lower intake manifold, if it is cracked you will also have a major air leak.
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  #28  
Old 02-08-2008, 07:08 PM
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well here's the great news, it's been sometime since I updated this thread...It was the fuel distributor. it was stuck in the wide open position. I sent it in to be rebuilt and dang if it didn't start right up. after some adjustment my daughter is enjoying her 190e. so I rebuilt this one for a grand total of $975.32 including the cost of the car. when and if she blows this one up ....it goes directly to auto salvage...no more Mercedes for me. Thanks to all that aided me on my mission .....it was fun(sort of)
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  #29  
Old 02-15-2008, 07:26 AM
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Wink fun times with a 190e

My 17 year old daughter bought her 84 190e last year and she has been working on it with me ever since. Good father daughter bonding. She has learned more about cars than most of her guy friends will ever know. This even included major body work after she rear ended an SUV. We orderd parts through e-bay and worked on it where others would have just sent it away to the junk yard. Lots of mechanical work too, where she learned how engines, brakes, trans, etc. work.

Financially, this may not have been the smart move but we have had a pretty good time. She loves the car. It's a 5 speed and she learned how to drive it in about 10 minutes. (Easiest clutch I've ever used.)

Old German car: $1100
Lots of used parts: $900
Time well spent with your teenage daughter: Priceless!
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  #30  
Old 03-29-2008, 02:17 PM
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Finally fixed the problem

Ignition Control Module was bad. Thanks for everyone's direction. I also replaced the fuel filter since it needed to be replaced anyways.


Are all 190 4 cylinder ICM's the same from car to car, is the 16 valve different and what are the differences using a regular 8 valve ICM on a 16 valve car and engine??

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