Hi Chuck,

Thanks for your reply.

I did check to see if the chain had jumped.....with the cam marks aligned on the passenger side cam shaft, I was seeing about 2-3 degrees to the right of zero. Also, as I mentioned previously, the compression ranges from 169-175 in all 8 cylinders.

Also, is there a thread somewhere that describes the procedure to replace timing chain, tensioner, & all guides/rails ?

Thanks,

Brian

There are several good ones. Use the Search feature and also look in the DIY posts.

The main thing is to not bugger the pulling of the pins that hold the slide rails in the head. There is a clever little tool that works a lot better than a slide puller. Like this:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/assm0734.html

Where most people have gotten into trouble is trying to pull the pins out with a non-hardened bolt and an assortment of washers. The bolt breaks off in the pin and then you have a much more difficult job to do.

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

I have that tool. But I found the slide puller more effective.

[quote=briandownunda;1720311]Hi, I am a new member of this forum. I have just purchased a 1987 560SL with 94k well documented miles on it. The timing chain, rail, tensioner, and tensioner rail were replaced at 85k miles, about 2 years ago. I bought the vehicle knowing that it has a mechanical problem. It runs very rough & has a fairly loud tapping sound. The seller chose not to have the vehicle repaired.

When you first start the car is there any blue smoke, your problem sounds like bad valve seal leaking oil into cylinder... As far as tapping sound that might be a valve that is hanging up do to deposits. the 5.6 engines do this I have found out with my 560 if I run shell v power or Bp it cleared up my valve tapping.. I would start there with mileage on the engine an the work that was done what I have mentioned sounds more like the problem.. these engines are strong especially the bottom end.. I just replace valve seals at 135k that stopped one spark plug from fouling.. my oil consumption prior the job was a quart about 1k miles I have 8k on the valve seal job an no oil consumption try these first see if that solves your problem
Bob

Brian
Your problem sounds like leaking valve seal how is oil consumption, any blue smoke at start up. as far as the valve tapping if you take a hammer handle and push down on the lifter if it is bad it will compress but I believe you will find that is not the case.. what kind of fuel are you running on my 560 if I use off brand of 93 I find my valves start to tap I run shell v power or BP that solved my valve tap problem.. Also there is noise from the chain the engine sounds like sowing machine that is normal. The missing problem could be caused by ingintion wires, cap , rotor. If they have been changed its injectors. If they are orginal they will need to be replaced, but before try cleaning with techroline injection cleaner.. its process of illumination... let me know i have been all through this engine ..

Thanks for your reply !

Yes, I do have some blue smoke when it starts as well as a couple of fouled spark plugs. I am beginning to think that I have the same problem you did.

I would like to go ahead & replace the valve seals. Can someone tell me the list of special tools that I really need to do the job ?

e.g. spring compressor, air compressor fitting for spark plug hole, something to slide the new seals onto the valves ? something to hold the camshaft in place ?

Also, the list of parts I think I need is the following (did I miss something ?)


cam oiler kit A6350-15447 2 $ 6.79 $ 13.58
left valve cover gasket A8030-25375 1 $ 11.39 $ 11.39
right valve cover gasket A8030-25376 1 $ 11.39 $ 11.39
valve cover seal washer A8033-83101 8 $ 0.96 $ 7.68
valve stem seal kit A8069-26467 2 $ 16.79 $ 33.58
Thanks in advance !

Brian