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  #1  
Old 01-23-2008, 05:08 PM
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Questions about 1991 300SE

Hello All,

I am looking at a 1991 300SE for sale in my area and thought I would ask opinions from the experts here.

It is silver, black interior, has 105,000 miles on the inline 6. Any bad things to know about the inline 6? It does seem to be dripping a small amount of oil from somewhere underneath, but I haven't seen it on a rack and don't know where it is coming from.

The tranny seems to shift a little hard between gears 2nd to 3rd (if I remember correctly). I was not getting on it very much, maybe it would be smoother if I had stepped on it more?

All electrics seem to be good, heat even blows down to the feet! The rear passenger window does not work, the PO said the plastic slider inside had broken.

It does seem to pull to the drivers side slightly when braking, might need alignment or maybe just the fairly worn tires.

It needs a new windshield as there is a fairly large crack on passengers side. All in all, pretty clean inside and out. The black interior is actually very nice, doesn't even have the torn leather where you get in and out yet!

The guy is asking $2900 for it and seems willing to negotiate some for the needed repairs. So, what to you guys think, does it sound like a good buy?

Thanks a million, Keefer

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  #2  
Old 01-23-2008, 05:15 PM
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I'd say $2500 for that would be about right.

The M103 engine has an affair with oil consumption & leakage.

That wouldn't keep me from buying at that price.
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  #3  
Old 01-23-2008, 06:32 PM
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i had a friend who recently got rid of her 1990 300SE.... she had a valve job done at about 175k.... i think she sold it for about 1500 with 250k on it.

I remember it shifting firmly... i would rather have my transmission shifting firmly than having it flare.
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  #4  
Old 01-23-2008, 06:34 PM
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Sounds like a nice car and a good buy if it's in nice condition.
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  #5  
Old 01-23-2008, 09:35 PM
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German cars don't leak. They mark their territory.
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1986 300E - Ugly color, gorgeous heart.

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German cars don't leak. They mark their territory.
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  #6  
Old 01-23-2008, 10:05 PM
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Posts: 108
My 300SEL had a new transmission with the PO; also the cylinder head was rebuilt. It now has 130,000 miles or so (218,000 km).

You definitely need a PPI before you touch it, even at $2500. You 'might' need front end, trans, engine head, brakes, shocks and who knows what else. That windshield is expensive - see if you can get the owner to make a comprehensive claim. Plus, it will need a tune-up and perhaps a chain, if it has not had its oil changed regularly.

All that stuff is doable if you are handy, but a 'new' trans will be about $2000.

The oil leak, unless it is a rear seal, will just be a nuisance.
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1991 300 SEL
218,000 Km

"Xsbank's rules of mechanical intervention: Always go for the easiest solution first; 90% of what ails a gasoline engine is ignition; After that its all a WAG."
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  #7  
Old 01-23-2008, 11:44 PM
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i found that my new to me (56,000KM) 1992 300 SEL shifted a lot nicer and drove a lot smoother with 5w30 synthetic and synthetic ATF for the transmission (with filter kit) - i hate to plug any oil company (Lord knows they dont need it) but I found that Mobile 1 synthetic blends work great in my cars. The synthetic ATF really made a huge difference in the shifts - i would highly recommend that. And i second Xsbank - get the owner to make a windsheild claim. If you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend a CAA inspection or equivilant (AAA in the United states i do think...) It's roughly $100 and they take off the tires and give you rotor measurments, pads, tire tread depth, front end inspection etc... I think my report said it was something like 150 point inspection... it's well worth it if you are serious about buying any car
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  #8  
Old 01-24-2008, 02:32 AM
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Hawk, interesting about your trans mission oil - mine is poised to get a change any day now - you figure it works better with synthetic? Was this the first change you've given it? Do you think that if it was your first change that any new oil would have made a difference? Lots of posters say to just use the cheap recommended stuff...

Sorry 'bout the hijack - back to your regularly scheduled post.
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1991 300 SEL
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"Xsbank's rules of mechanical intervention: Always go for the easiest solution first; 90% of what ails a gasoline engine is ignition; After that its all a WAG."
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  #9  
Old 01-24-2008, 08:06 AM
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Unless Canada is different than US (seems like they got the 140 chassis in 91, rather than 92), a 91 300SE is a completely different car than a 92 300SE. Other than the fact that they're both made by Mercedes, they share practically nothing in common.

91 has the M103 motor, and a 4-speed auto.
92 has the M104 motor, and a 5-speed auto, and LOTS more gizmos.
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  #10  
Old 01-24-2008, 11:24 AM
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I've owned my '91 300SE forever, and can certainly comment on its pros and cons.
- the rear window is very likely the little plastic jaw that costs only a couple of bucks. I have installed 4 now, not super easy, but certainly doable by a DIY'r.
- my car always wears the LF tire on the outside, makes it pull left when the wear gets noticeable - can't be fixed apparantly, I just rotate the tires.
- The 103 engine has 4 flaws, in my opinion:
1.the front timing cover (upper cover) springs a leak routinely. It's about an hour job, heavily documented here. The seal cost is $5 or so.
2. the head gasket goes at about 100k, due to expansion/contraction of the aluminum head on the iron block. I took mine off and carried it to the local shop for a valve job and re-plane - about $300. Again, not really a tough job for a car-handy guy.
3. the valve seals passed oil from the time the car was new - used a quart in 300 miles at highway speeds. The new valve job (and seals) stopped all oil usage.
4. the engine will turn 3500 at 70 mph in this car. This tends to wear the accessories faster. Idler pulleys, water pumps, etc.
5? My timing chain seems good and tight at 180K, but it gets clean oil.

- I complained about the 3-4 (2nd shift) in my tranny from the time it was new - very firm. After 180k, it has gotten even firmer.

Basically a great car, and easy to work on and get parts for. Mine has NEVER
been in a repair shop since the warranty expired, but I have done dozens of repairs to keep it in great shape. If I could not work on it myself, there is NO WAY I would still own it.
That's the way I feel about all older Benz's - if you have to pay someone to work on it, then don't buy it, or plan on nursing it along with a lot of problems for a couple of years before it terminally breaks and you give it away.
Check rear muffler, front suspension/steering, water pump, AC/heat function/vacuum air valves/freon, motor mounts, rust on door bottoms, warm start/idle smoothness, brakes/rotors,driveshaft flex disks, clicking noise in tranny in Reverse, radiator, belt tensioner, water leak at rear of head, egr valve, etc,etc.

DG
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  #11  
Old 01-24-2008, 12:34 PM
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Wbrian63, My car is a 91 300 SEL; he says the car he is looking at is a 91 300 SE. Ergo bingo, 5" different, that's all.
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1991 300 SEL
218,000 Km

"Xsbank's rules of mechanical intervention: Always go for the easiest solution first; 90% of what ails a gasoline engine is ignition; After that its all a WAG."
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2008, 03:20 PM
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Sounds like you should buy it

Take a look at the buyer's guide for the W126 SEC coupes fro a run down on what to look for on the chassis before you buy.

www.mbcoupes.com (The buyers guide)

It is not so new, but fairly comprehensive, and well regarded on the net. I co wrote it back in1998 so nevermind about the prices mentioned.

The 300SE is the sexy looking close coupled body. Astal Silver with a black interior is a very, very nice looking set up.

The 177 hp inline six won't accellerate from a stop or in passing gear like the 560, but on the other hand (if that matters) it makes politer sounds at the gas trough, and it will cruise on the highway at speed just as well as the rest of the 560 cars.

The six cylinder motor is a very good one, one of Mercedes' better efforts.

Actually, they are quite peppy around town, because of the rear axle ratio, and for a big car like that the handle amazingly well and have in the SE body style a great tuning ratio, and are quite nimble in parking and tight turning situations in big cities and close quarters.

They are also engineered and crafted to a cost no object standard of build quality and reliability.

Plus, you are looking at the last production year of a great body, always a plus, you have all the latest interior, exterior refinements that you could get.

If I were you, I would definately buy it, if it passes PPI and the faults are considered in the final price paid.

And in the end, you'd have an appealing, elegant, safe, comfortable, durable, car for a fraction of its cost new.

In ten years what you paid for it today, won't mean a thing.

They are legendary, beautiful, cars that you could, with reasonable care, keep forever to use and enjoy.
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  #13  
Old 01-24-2008, 04:03 PM
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Exactly!
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1991 300 SEL
218,000 Km

"Xsbank's rules of mechanical intervention: Always go for the easiest solution first; 90% of what ails a gasoline engine is ignition; After that its all a WAG."
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2008, 09:27 PM
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Talking

To All, thanks so much for all the sound advice and opinions, you guys are great!

I am currently driving a 1984 300SD which has become my favorite car of all time (and I've had some nice ones over the years). I don't plan on getting rid of the SD, I guess I just have the itch to have another Mercedes, (I'm sure a few here can relate)!

My SD was not taken very good care of in some areas, mostly cosmetic, but it had $7000 in receipts in the glove box for different mechanical maintenance done over the last several years before I bought it, so it does run and handle quite well.

This silver 300SE is so attractive looking, and the black leather interior is so tight and clean that I was thinking how nice it would be to have one that wasn't all worn out like mine.

Anyway, you guys have helped me settle down some, so I can think clearly

I will find out more next week hopefully.

Thanks again........Keefer

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