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#1
02-06-2008, 12:18 PM
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1992 500E Rear SLS Repair
Hey All,
My 500E needs the rear SLS replaced. It's the original hydro system, and the dealership wants $2100 for parts and labor. I have a quote of $1295 from a mom & pop place that does decent work. My question: Is this a job that the average indie shop can do, or one that requires the expertise of an M-B dealer? I imagine it would also require flushing of the hydraulic fluid, new fluid, etc. What else might the job call for? Opinions? Kirk 1992 500E Pearl black/gray 78,800 miles Bone stock 
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#2
02-06-2008, 12:38 PM
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Well what exactly is wrong with it?
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.  '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#4
02-06-2008, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Yes replace as a set, even Fastlane sells the accumulators alone for $141/ea... $285 shipped. $1000 in labor seems HUGE. I swapped the accumulators on my 560 with the assend up on ramps in a long afternoon. Surely you will want the specific SLS oil to flush the system and a new filter, but that is cheap.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#5
02-06-2008, 01:26 PM
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Replacing shocks, too
I'm pretty sure the dealer bid includes replacing the accumulators as well as the shocks. The shocks on Fastlane are $461 ea/$922 pair. Dealer also included the hydro lines just in case those failed during removal.
Maybe these bids aren't apples to apples, but that is further to my point: the indie shop might not know what they're doing... Kirk
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#6
02-06-2008, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
The shocks don't really go bad unless they are leaking, you'd be wasting money having them replaced. Do you not have the space/ability to do this swap?
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#7
02-06-2008, 01:33 PM
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I second Hitman's comments.
I am changing the accumulators on my 94 E320 wagon and got the parts under $260 (********az) shipped to my house. Should be a easy project for any competent mechanic. The hardest part is figuring out how to access the accumulators inside the car. If I recall they are buried in some models. The wagon required removing 6 panel screens and peeling up a floor pannel in the cargo area. Second item is the hex bolt for the line from the strut to the accumulator. If generous quantities of penetrating oils are not applied to the nut prior to trying to unbolt it stripping of the hex slot is possible (ask me how I know...). That may require the replacement of the hydraulic line and bolt (reported to be a $20ish part based on other posts). Why not order the accumulators and filter then deliver the car and the parts to your Indie if you are less DIY inclined? That will probably save you a substantial chunk of the quoted cost especially after you provide him with a copy of the DIY posts from these forums.
__________________
Brian G. 1994 E320 Wagon with many warts SOLD 1995 E320 Wagon with a beauty mark or two FOR SALE
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#8
02-06-2008, 01:33 PM
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Need to replace all parts?
I guess my other question now would be if the accumulators are bad, should I just replace those, or with 78K on the car, do everything (accumulators and shocks) in one fell swoop and have a whole new rear SLS?
Or is doing the shocks prematurely a waste of money? My initial reaction is to do everything at once. Kirk
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#10
02-06-2008, 01:37 PM
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Struts
If the struts on the car are not leaking, then its up to you.
These struts are much like a hydraulic cylinder on a piece of construction equipment. If the seals are intact and not leaking, then no need to replace. Look under the car at the strut, if there is oil staining around the strut housing, then it would be a reason to replace.
__________________
Brian G. 1994 E320 Wagon with many warts SOLD 1995 E320 Wagon with a beauty mark or two FOR SALE
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#12
02-06-2008, 04:00 PM
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The 'clunk' you hear is the bad N2 cells...as said the the 'hydro-struts' are pretty long lived and if there is no leaks then they are prolly good. They are expensive new tho if you do need, but I'm betting they are fine. While its aparts and depressurized you may want to change out the $5 rubber bushings above and below the 'shocks' back there also.
$2100 would be an ultimate soak and the whoever charges you that would prolly take the rest of the week off for what should be only a few hours of work. Run ! You or your indy can do those cells in your driveway not even jacking the car up...its pretty easy with no special tools. Do a search here, I'll bet there is a good DIY description. Properly bleeding the system when you are done is critical also...but easy as well. I've done it on 3 500Es and I'm no mechanic by any stretch. 
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#13
02-06-2008, 04:24 PM
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Jim,
Thanks for your comprehensive response--I truly appreciate it, and it is most helpful. I'm going to start with the accumulators as a DIY and go from there. Probably not until spring, though; it's 20 degrees F here in Ann Arbor! This site has been a great resource in the 8 years I have been using it. Thanks to all who contribute to make it so great! Kirk Last edited by Fangio; 02-06-2008 at 05:58 PM.
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#14
02-07-2008, 07:17 AM
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Good luck Kirk...j/k, you SHOULD use a jack and jackstands tho, safety first and always !! The rear will drop a few inches on itself if you don't but if you are thin like me you can still do it lyin' on your back.
But yes, once you look at the set-up, you should see how easy it is to replace them. 3 bolts hold each one on and 2 hydraulic lines to each cell. It'll be messy, no way around that.... You need at least 2 cans of the MB hydraulic fluid also. To bleed the system and pump in new fluid; un-do the return line at the top of the reservoir in the engine bay, run a length of clear tubing to a catch basin and run the motor, the old fluid will deposit in the basin while you fill up the reservoir with new stuff. System is supposedly self bleeding of air bubbles but it doesn't hurt to crack the 10mm plug at the top of the rear unit and run the car a bit(where the connecting rod attaches to the swaybar by the right rear wheel is a bleed screw). I may have a .pdf file of the factory procedure as well...let me look.
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