Methinks you are overpaying, and getting unnecessary work.

Your control arms and ball joints are not bad (assuming your miles are correct). If you replace your tie-rod ends and adjust the front wheel bearing play, your car will be as tight as a Tennessee virgin for another 100K. You've got at least 50K before worrying about ball joints. Remember that your car is essentially a heavy-duty taxi.

The belt is a DIY. What's wrong with the tensioner?

Also, I second the recommendation of trying the other shop.

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Prost!

He said it is getting weak. Also, they email me today to tell me I need a new tumbler set in the ignition because the "key is sticking". Huh. I gave them the old worn out key. They new one I ordered works fine. New ignition at 82k?

They seem to be like the scammers that keep on coming back again and again to the old person they successfully scammed once.

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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles

The tumbler is a design flaw (or planned obsolescence from Huf). It dies somewhere around 100-130K miles. It's also well documented here, if you want to try the DIY, but you should do it before the tumbler really does stick and won't turn - that's significantly more costly because you can't line up the slot to remove the tumbler. So, if it's ca. $200 including part, then I'd be OK getting it done.

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Prost!