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  #46  
Old 03-30-2008, 10:18 AM
The Geezer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Guernsey, Channel Islands
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by azurite300E View Post
What you describe as the rattling box with the heat shield under the passenger side, that's you Cat converter. From what you say, its obviously deteriorated, probably damaged internally...
Sorry azurite300E, I may not have been clear with my post - it is the heat shield that has come lose, like no bolts holding it in place kind of lose! It's only the shape of it that won't let it fall off and around the box. It happened when I had to mount and drive over a curb and as you know the 300's are quite low. A distinct 'clunk' and an "uh oh" from me resulted in it becoming lose. It is that which is rattling through-out the car at idle. I've not noticed any other rattling from within the cat prior to that.

The downside of working in IT is people find out and do the "oh, I think I have a virus...". Suffice to say have ended up with a computer to fix, but on the plus side this guy repairs cars as a side line so quid-pro-quo he's agreed to go over my exhaust and fix the heat shield. I put forward teezer's suggestion about dropping the exhaust to test the difference. I'll report back on his view of its condition.

2mercs' thanks for commenting on Eurocarparts - I've found their website and seen some of the prices, they seem quite reasonable. Pay day can't come soon enough...

Best regards,

Glyn B.

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  #47  
Old 03-30-2008, 11:58 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Glyn, we don't seem to have established for sure whether your car has a cat - what you are looking at may be just an expansion box - as far as I know you don't actually need a cat on your car, so you could eliminate it but the worry is what to do with the sensor. If I've read your previous posts correctly, the wiring isn't connected anyway? Perhaps you have a 'universal' harness, used on cars for many markets that may or may not need a cat? Did the site that described your car (like 'big brother') not tell you if a cat was original equipment? You (and we) really need to know....Cheers, Pete.
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  #48  
Old 03-31-2008, 06:12 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 844
Hi Glyn,
I am sure you don't have a cat. If you have no O2 you wont have a cat. From what you describe about twin pipes from your manifold to the first exhaust muffler is exactly the same as my U.K. car. i.e. No O2, No cat.
You car was designed to run on either leaded or unleaded therefore no cat.
U.S. cars are a completely different kettle of fish to what the Euro models made for the U.K. were.
Another give away is the EZL wheel on the front passenger guard (RHD) Pictured. This is not in the cat cars (Euro). reading earlier posts - your car has this adjustment wheel. In an earlier post I listed the correct positions for this.


There is some heat shield metal insulation bolted to the body of my car that follows the exhaust pipes from the manifold to the first muffler under the (RHD) drivers seat area. If this metal insulation is loose it will make a rattling sound - in my case not in neutral but happens in drive at idle. In my case this was an easy to fix by getting under the car and tightening it up.

I recently changed my Fuel distributor in the hope that it was the cause of much as the same as your problems. One of the things I found was that there is a rubber grommet/seal between the fuel distributor and AFM body. Mine had stretched and was letting a little airleak and fuel into the air chamber. In the end changing the fuel distributor made no difference however the rubber seal replacement seemed to be a culprit.

I finally messed around with the air fuel ratio on the lambda tower. With a lot of trail and error eventually got the car running correctly. The car now accelerates like it never has before.

Because our cars are running open loop they require adjustment of this ratio to be spot on correct to function as designed. Adjusting the lambda tower can be very frustrating and really should be done with a CO2 exhaust analyzer by a professional.

The plastic thermostat cover was a boo boo by the designers - what were they thinking - It should be changed out Post Haste with a metal one.

Some cars designed for export were designed as a " global" car i.e. were designed to go to countries where poor quality petrol or leaded fuel was still commonly in use (at the time). You may find in your car manual (if you have one) that this detail is mentioned. Cats were not fitted obviously because the lead would destroy the precious metals used in cat construction. O2 units were superfluous if leaded fuels were used.

My car was exported from the U.K. to Singapore and then to Australia. Some Asian countries in the late eighties and early nineties still used leaded petrol extensively. Some petrol is rated at 89 octane.

regards Ivanerrol Australia with U.K. Import 190e 2.6.

Last edited by Ivanerrol; 03-31-2008 at 06:44 AM.
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  #49  
Old 04-03-2008, 01:02 PM
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Ivanerrol, hopefully the good Dr is sorted but you could help me with something if you would; the EZL adjuster - I've done a search but couldn't find the previous post you referred to. The adjuster on my 1988 300E, using English Regular 95 Octane fuel is nowhere near where the one in your picture is set; could you please refer me to your earlier post?
Also, as an aside, when I replaced the plastic thermo housing with an alloy one, the new housing has a threaded boss in its top which needs blanking off: it's an 8mmx1.0 thread - I bet anyone changing theirs hasn't got anything suitable in their toolbox! However it's a great bleed for refilling - just find a suitable bolt first.
Cheers, Pete.
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  #50  
Old 04-03-2008, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2mercspete View Post
Also, as an aside, when I replaced the plastic thermo housing with an alloy one, the new housing has a threaded boss in its top which needs blanking off:
That's correct, mine has it.
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  #51  
Old 04-04-2008, 05:56 AM
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Location: Melbourne Australia
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The EZL settings
S = 98 octane and above
N = 95 Octane
The higher the number on the EZL switch i.e. 7 is the lowest octane level.
Benz's manuals state that this adjustment should be accurate as engine damage can result.

Metal thermo housing has an outlet for the return hose for the 190e 2.6's. This hose goes from the thermo housing back to the expansion tank. On the 124's and 126's this return hose goes from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank. For 124's and 126's a blanking post is required See foto of 190e 2.6

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  #52  
Old 04-04-2008, 07:42 AM
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Thanks for that Ivanerrol, I'll go check mine now.
Cheers, Pete.
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  #53  
Old 04-05-2008, 03:28 PM
The Geezer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Guernsey, Channel Islands
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My apologies for not replying earlier - my son had gastro-enteritis, not good at our age, even worse at 18 months! So I had to take time off work to look after him, and then on going back to work playing catch-up with everything.

I am off for a few days now so I will check a few things on the car and report back.

Best regards,

Glyn B.
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  #54  
Old 04-05-2008, 07:11 PM
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Further info on EZL settings from U.K. 190 website here

Go to technical engine and drive train and then under engine you will find a sticky for the EZL Settings

http://www.mercedes190.co.uk/
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  #55  
Old 04-05-2008, 10:38 PM
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Location: Conklin Michigan
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I had an 88 300TE 168M on it the head gasket went and it ran like crap, a pressue test
of the cooling sysyem should tell you that. Also I had a broken value spring.
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  #56  
Old 04-06-2008, 12:43 PM
The Geezer
 
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Location: Guernsey, Channel Islands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdp3456 View Post
I had an 88 300TE 168M on it the head gasket went and it ran like crap, a pressue test
of the cooling sysyem should tell you that. Also I had a broken value spring.
I have my own cylinder compression tester that I bought eons ago and I tested the engine and they're all close to 13 bar (give-or-take a small difference) or around 180 PSI. So, that's twice now I've used it in all that time! The Haynes service manual states this value should be no less than 8.5 bar with 1.5 bar variation between cylinders. It does not state what the factory new value would have been.

I still have not had the time to take the air filter off to inspect what I need to look over so once again... I'll be back

Regards,

Glyn B.
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  #57  
Old 04-10-2008, 05:02 AM
The Geezer
 
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Location: Guernsey, Channel Islands
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If it's not one thing, it's another... last night I put the central heating on and then later went off to see a friend. The house then got really hot so the missus turned off the heating and opened the windows.

I get home late, go to bed not realising the windows were still open (not a slightest breeze moving the curtains to show they were open). As an indication of the temperature last night, on the way home the Benz determined the air temperature to be 0.5'C - barely above freezing.

In the early hours of the morning I woke up to the worst muscle cramp ever in the history of ever since 'ever' records began, in my entire back - any more painful and I swear I was going to give birth to something!

So, now my back is agony and will take a few days to ease meaning yet another spell of inactivity on the car and no further updates for this thread.

I promise I will do something on the Benz soon and report back (fingers crossed... toes crossed... touch wood... )

In pain, I mean, best regards,

Glyn (ouch) B.
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  #58  
Old 04-13-2008, 03:59 PM
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The "face" of the EZL resistance trimming plug describe if the vehicle is equipped with KAT.
Characters in white means no KAT, it's also labeled EZL ECE.
Characters in green means KAT installed, it's labeled EZL KAT.

Last edited by MB124393; 04-13-2008 at 05:05 PM.
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  #59  
Old 04-14-2008, 09:14 AM
The Geezer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Guernsey, Channel Islands
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by MB124393 View Post
The "face" of the EZL resistance trimming plug describe if the vehicle is equipped with KAT.
Characters in white means no KAT, it's also labeled EZL ECE.
Characters in green means KAT installed, it's labeled EZL KAT.
Thanks for your input MB124393 mine has the white markings and is indeed labelled EZL ECE. It is set to "N" as recommended in a previous post.

While I was laying down my high-power wire for my audio install I had to route the cable past the ECU which meant removing the protective cover. Behind the ECU and on the bulkhead (firewall?) there was another one labelled simply ECE and 'tied' in position by a bit of wire so as it cannot be rotated.

Perhaps this is more of the 'one wiring loom, any market' approach where (for example) I have the connections for the KAT set-up but unused.

Being two types of timing device does that imply the need to change to a green coloured EZL KAT unit if an o2 Lambda sensor was fitted?

Many thanks,

Glyn B.
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  #60  
Old 04-14-2008, 10:22 AM
The Geezer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Guernsey, Channel Islands
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivanerrol View Post
Hi Glyn,
I am sure you don't have a cat. If you have no O2 you wont have a cat. From what you describe about twin pipes from your manifold to the first exhaust muffler is exactly the same as my U.K. car. i.e. No O2, No cat.

I recently changed my Fuel distributor in the hope that it was the cause of much as the same as your problems. One of the things I found was that there is a rubber grommet/seal between the fuel distributor and AFM body. Mine had stretched and was letting a little airleak and fuel into the air chamber. In the end changing the fuel distributor made no difference however the rubber seal replacement seemed to be a culprit.

Because our cars are running open loop they require adjustment of this ratio to be spot on correct to function as designed. Adjusting the lambda tower can be very frustrating and really should be done with a CO2 exhaust analyzer by a professional.

The plastic thermostat cover was a boo boo by the designers - what were they thinking - It should be changed out Post Haste with a metal one.

regards Ivanerrol Australia with U.K. Import 190e 2.6.
Thanks again for your input Ivanerrol - now my back is, um, back to normal I was able to get into the engine bay and take some shots. These were taken using my mobile phone camera and as such aren't the best. To save having these download in-line on the forum page I shall put them as links:

http://www.modiford.com/forum/bosch_cis.jpg
http://www.modiford.com/forum/bosch_cis_air_flow_sensor.jpg
http://www.modiford.com/forum/bosch_cis_air_flow_sensor_close.jpg

From seeing shots of other people's shiny air flow sensors I can see that mine is clearly letting the team down! It is also in that condition behind the sensor plate too. The air filter has been renewed but I suspect the neglect of the previous owner has led to this condition.

You mention taking the fuel distributor off the air flow meter body. I would guess that would involve the disconnecting of the injector fuel lines to extract the unit as a whole? And can the FD be detached from the AFM without upsetting the FD itself? What I mean is - will the FD be one unit that I can leave alone and bolt back onto the AFM with no risk to its fine operation? (hope that makes sense ).

If, as I suspect the case will be, the lines need removing I will take the time to renew the injector seals at the same time but I seem to recall their being another item that needs buying when re-fitting the lines, perhaps a new set of other seals? I'm sure you'll be able to advise having done this all yourself .

In addition, more so for the previous post I made, here are shots of my EZL / ECE dials:

http://www.modiford.com/forum/timing_ezl_ece.jpg
http://www.modiford.com/forum/timing_ece.jpg

Kind regards,

Glyn B.

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