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  #1  
Old 03-08-2008, 01:36 AM
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Question COLD START INJECTOR Removal or Blocking???

Hello- can I disconnect the cold start injector and plug the line? I think it runs all the time and doesnt shut off my fuel useage is unreal! tell me wplease what to do ro if I can do it!

Thank you in advance my trustworthy fellow best car in the world owners and afficianados

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  #2  
Old 03-08-2008, 03:14 AM
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Which model is it?
In principle should not create any problem, just try. on my car I would just have to remove the blue connector, not easy to access whithout removing the whole air intake
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Son's one: GLK class 220CDI, 2009, W204

Sold E class 260E, W124, 1988 beloved car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch and 5 speed manual gear box all original).

E-class, W210 320CDI, 2000[/B], 225 000km, Sold
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  #3  
Old 03-08-2008, 06:39 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I had a similar problem on my 84 euro and it turned out to be the warm up regulator.

I don't know if your system is the same or not.

Tom W
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  #4  
Old 03-08-2008, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I had a similar problem on my 84 euro and it turned out to be the warm up regulator.

I don't know if your system is the same or not.
He's got the D Jetronic system, it isn't the same.

Disconnecting the power to the cold start injector won't resolve the leak if the injector has gone bad and is stuck open. You'll want to disconnect the fuel supply to really check it.
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  #5  
Old 03-08-2008, 09:50 AM
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The fuel fitting for the cold start valve is an odd size. I don't think you can find a cap for it. This isn't a terribly expensive part if it's even bad. It might be OK. You should first remove it (watch out, fuel under pressure!) and with check if it's leaking. When removed attach the fuel line but leave the electrical connector unplugged. Pull out the high voltage center wire from the coil to the distributor and ground it so the car won't start. Don't try plugging the cold start valve opening with a rag or tape. It'll only get sucked into the engine and cause big problems.

Have a helper run the starter. When the engine turns over fuel system will pressurize and you can see if the valve is leaking. It might not be the cold start valve. It might be the thermo-switch wich controls the valve.
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  #6  
Old 05-05-2008, 04:49 PM
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I'm struggling unsuccessfully to remove the blue cold start valve on my 1988 300ce-I want to swap it into my 1987 300e, which during the cold weather accelerated weakly until it hit operating temp but now, drives properly from the getgo. I'd appreciate advice on how to disconnect it from the harness-I have dissassembled everything else and have easy access, but can't get the connector off. Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2008, 02:12 AM
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There is a small steel wire accross the connector which acts as a lock remove it and then you can pull the connector. very easy

good luck
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Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved
Present cars:
My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8, 180 000km

Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 345 000km

Son's one: GLK class 220CDI, 2009, W204

Sold E class 260E, W124, 1988 beloved car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch and 5 speed manual gear box all original).

E-class, W210 320CDI, 2000[/B], 225 000km, Sold
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  #8  
Old 05-06-2008, 09:55 AM
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Funny, I thought that might be it but was afraid. Thanks for your help and prompt reply.

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)
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