95 E320 will not crank- help anybody!!!
 

my 95 e320 refused to crank. Switch and dash lights appear normal. Battery reads 12.5 volts. No clicks or any other sound when turned to crank position.
I locked and unlocked the car thinking there may be some ignition lockout associated with anti theft. I checked all the fuses under the hood. no recent service or mechanical work. Any advice or direction appreciated.

ray:confused:

Try "N" and spin fuse # 5................

Thanks AD, I did spin all the fuses and I tried holding the start position as i moved the shift to either side of neutral. The reverse lights are on in R but if moved from neutral to R i have to move the shifter to between R and P to get the reverse lights. They do come on and stay on when coming from P to R. I thought I would get something on either side of neutral even if there was an alignment issue.
Any more advice still appreciated.

Change fuse 5 and repost

number 5 fuse
 

AD, I changed the number 5 and no start yet. My fuse box label says num 5 is for stop lamp, instrument,front roof light, electric bulb control, cruise control,tach. Does that sound like what you were shooting for?

My schematics for that chassis/yr -Fuse 5 is ATA K38 interlock relay coil side. [ assuming you are giving me the correct year 124.032]

OK
There is a 3 wire terminal block/connector to the left of brake fluid resersoir [ on inner firewall]
Unplug that and then jumper a wire from the battery + to the center connector at that plug [ not the connector/harness you unplugged, but the one mounted to the firewall. [ where V/Wt wire went.]

make sure Key is OFF and trans is in P.
Does starter engage w/test?????????????????????

If yes , trouble is upstream from that X27 connector.[ NSS or K38 relay]
.if NO, downstream.. [ starter/sol, etc]

thanks for the test
 

AD, I jumped the lead and it does crank. I had looked at other forum posts on the NSS replacement but wondered Where/How to check the K38 relay you mentioned.

Thanks for all the help so far.

OK

Try putting the alarm On/off a few times before we go into the NSS and K38 circuit test.

AD, I read your instruction to user named Blankers in 7/2007 regarding similar problem with e300. I will go try the alarm (I assume you mean by locking doors with the key ( I don't know of another alarm arm feature)).
I will also check the fuse labels for anything ATA related.

OK

Your problem has been narrowed down to NSS or K38 contacts.
The X27 connector we addressed is downstream from them and the chain is Ign sw >NSS>K38 interlock>K27..so we know K27 and On are verified.
Reason for alalm ON/Off is b/c each time you do that , the K38 contacts open/close ..so, if we have a poor contact set, that will give us an indication..

I have the schematic and there are a few more jumper test that will verify which part of the circuit is at fault, but try alarm first...

Give me that Blankers link to save me repeat typing ....

*Note:

For any following this thread, pay attention to the X27 jumper trick b/c this will save you a tow truck if you get caught somewhere in the Bonnies with a bad NSS or K38 relay problem..crude , but will get you home ..
Print it out and throw it in the glovebox.

I tried locking and unlocking the doors several times. no start but I just learned the alarm is not working. The red diode is not lit and reaching through an open window to unlock a door does not activate an alarm. I did check all the fuse locations with VM (on the copper as you suggested) all (except lights which were off) seem to be reading just under 12 volts.

OK

Hold on...I just got back...

I think this is the link to the exchange with Blankers
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/193859-1995-e300-starter-won%92t-crank.html?highlight=k38+relay

Yeah, I remember him now..I posted the schematic but then I dropped it for room...bummer ..that would make it easy for you to follow

Well, anyway, you get the picture from that thread, but I will run this by you...

We will start at x27 and work back to ign switch:

V/W from x27 goes thru the main cabin firewall and down under the the drivers side dash [around the gas pedal area]...look there and you will see a 4 prong plug-X49/2.
The V/W will be #4 of that plug and #3 will be V/Grn...those 2 wires go to NSS..so, put the gear shift in P and jumper those two wires [V/GRN and V/W]..then try the starter w/ign key...if YES , then you need a NSS ..if NO , we have to go to next circuit [ which is K38]

Also, You said you checked all fuses , but recheck 11,12, and specially 'B" for ATA led activation power....

Thanks AD, I will get on it in the morning. By the way, I could find nothing that was labeled ata in the fuse box but will double check suggested tomorrow. Again thanks for all the time and effort today.