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  #1  
Old 05-05-2008, 10:43 AM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
Posts: 56
95 E320 will not crank- help anybody!!!

my 95 e320 refused to crank. Switch and dash lights appear normal. Battery reads 12.5 volts. No clicks or any other sound when turned to crank position.
I locked and unlocked the car thinking there may be some ignition lockout associated with anti theft. I checked all the fuses under the hood. no recent service or mechanical work. Any advice or direction appreciated.

ray

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  #2  
Old 05-05-2008, 10:57 AM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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Try "N" and spin fuse # 5................
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  #3  
Old 05-05-2008, 11:21 AM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
Posts: 56
Thanks AD, I did spin all the fuses and I tried holding the start position as i moved the shift to either side of neutral. The reverse lights are on in R but if moved from neutral to R i have to move the shifter to between R and P to get the reverse lights. They do come on and stay on when coming from P to R. I thought I would get something on either side of neutral even if there was an alignment issue.
Any more advice still appreciated.
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  #4  
Old 05-05-2008, 11:25 AM
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Change fuse 5 and repost
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2008, 11:55 AM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
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number 5 fuse

AD, I changed the number 5 and no start yet. My fuse box label says num 5 is for stop lamp, instrument,front roof light, electric bulb control, cruise control,tach. Does that sound like what you were shooting for?
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  #6  
Old 05-05-2008, 12:14 PM
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My schematics for that chassis/yr -Fuse 5 is ATA K38 interlock relay coil side. [ assuming you are giving me the correct year 124.032]

OK
There is a 3 wire terminal block/connector to the left of brake fluid resersoir [ on inner firewall]
Unplug that and then jumper a wire from the battery + to the center connector at that plug [ not the connector/harness you unplugged, but the one mounted to the firewall. [ where V/Wt wire went.]

make sure Key is OFF and trans is in P.
Does starter engage w/test?????????????????????

If yes , trouble is upstream from that X27 connector.[ NSS or K38 relay]
.if NO, downstream.. [ starter/sol, etc]
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  #7  
Old 05-05-2008, 05:14 PM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
Posts: 56
thanks for the test

AD, I jumped the lead and it does crank. I had looked at other forum posts on the NSS replacement but wondered Where/How to check the K38 relay you mentioned.

Thanks for all the help so far.
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  #8  
Old 05-05-2008, 05:17 PM
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OK

Try putting the alarm On/off a few times before we go into the NSS and K38 circuit test.
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  #9  
Old 05-05-2008, 05:33 PM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
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AD, I read your instruction to user named Blankers in 7/2007 regarding similar problem with e300. I will go try the alarm (I assume you mean by locking doors with the key ( I don't know of another alarm arm feature)).
I will also check the fuse labels for anything ATA related.
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  #10  
Old 05-05-2008, 05:40 PM
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OK

Your problem has been narrowed down to NSS or K38 contacts.
The X27 connector we addressed is downstream from them and the chain is Ign sw >NSS>K38 interlock>K27..so we know K27 and On are verified.
Reason for alalm ON/Off is b/c each time you do that , the K38 contacts open/close ..so, if we have a poor contact set, that will give us an indication..

I have the schematic and there are a few more jumper test that will verify which part of the circuit is at fault, but try alarm first...

Give me that Blankers link to save me repeat typing ....

*Note:

For any following this thread, pay attention to the X27 jumper trick b/c this will save you a tow truck if you get caught somewhere in the Bonnies with a bad NSS or K38 relay problem..crude , but will get you home ..
Print it out and throw it in the glovebox.
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Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 05-05-2008 at 06:00 PM.
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2008, 06:42 PM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
Posts: 56
I tried locking and unlocking the doors several times. no start but I just learned the alarm is not working. The red diode is not lit and reaching through an open window to unlock a door does not activate an alarm. I did check all the fuse locations with VM (on the copper as you suggested) all (except lights which were off) seem to be reading just under 12 volts.
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2008, 07:04 PM
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OK

Hold on...I just got back...
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2008, 07:27 PM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
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I think this is the link to the exchange with Blankers
1995 E300 - starter won’t crank
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2008, 07:51 PM
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Yeah, I remember him now..I posted the schematic but then I dropped it for room...bummer ..that would make it easy for you to follow

Well, anyway, you get the picture from that thread, but I will run this by you...

We will start at x27 and work back to ign switch:

V/W from x27 goes thru the main cabin firewall and down under the the drivers side dash [around the gas pedal area]...look there and you will see a 4 prong plug-X49/2.
The V/W will be #4 of that plug and #3 will be V/Grn...those 2 wires go to NSS..so, put the gear shift in P and jumper those two wires [V/GRN and V/W]..then try the starter w/ign key...if YES , then you need a NSS ..if NO , we have to go to next circuit [ which is K38]

Also, You said you checked all fuses , but recheck 11,12, and specially 'B" for ATA led activation power....
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Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 05-05-2008 at 08:03 PM.
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2008, 08:08 PM
Ray
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Emerald Isle NC
Posts: 56
Thanks AD, I will get on it in the morning. By the way, I could find nothing that was labeled ata in the fuse box but will double check suggested tomorrow. Again thanks for all the time and effort today.

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